QUIKBLADE

IMO - it is an unknown quantity, unless every Cefiro owner goes to a Dyno Day puts it up and see what happens.. some of these hard tuned ones haven't even been up on a Dyno since coming to Oz.

If it's loosing vaccum and stuttering, have you checked for boost leaks? eg: intake piping and boost gauge hoses etc... that would cause unmetered air to enter the system and cause more fuel to enter to compensate... Check AFM firstly, pull it off and spray with carby cleaner to get rid of any grease/oil build up from filter... drive and test. Hmmm, to confirm/deny head gasket, pop the radiator cap and the fluid should be green and not cloudy or be milky white colour... you could also pressure test the radiator... Hope at least one helps your situation. Regards, Grant

If you're referring to what I've said... I don't know the J-Shop ones, but that's good that they have the level on them... at least you know when to empty!! Also, the Autobarn "DRIFT" branded 500ml ones (upon closer inspection) look like Greddy 500ml knock-offs But meh, should be just as functional. Regards, Grant

Wicked setup... I have bought a "Drift" one from Autobarn cuz the 1 litre Greddy one wouldn't fit in my engine bay... D'oh... (however, this Drift one does have an oil level pipe on the side, so you can see how full it is) But I was scratching my head to plug up the "return pipes" but now I will do the same as this one... Thanks for the pictures, and just in time too gt-t r34 - I'd recommend going and spending a little bit of money and grab some more hoses clamps... for saftey and security on all hose connections... unless you were recommended not to use these?? Regards, Grant

HAHA, IMO you'll win, just whack some Nittos (or similar on) and blast from the "lights" or whereever... AWD grip, can't beat it... Put it this way, dependant on the "race" it will either be very close, or you'll decimate! If you want "factory stats" Check This do the homework, and make a decision... It'll be interesting for sure!

Removed, Tested and the CHIME IS NO MORE!!!! WOOHOO... Thanks Guys...! Now We must Decide how it dies...?!!! Option 1: "Burn in Hell" Option 2: "Be Smashed to Bits... In Hell"

Pics? Do you have a sound bite of your exhaust at idle etc?

thanks... the morning can't come quick enough for me to detach that damn thing.... Guess my next question would be: WTF is the point of a chime at 105?!!

Just if anyone knows where to disconnect/cut the wire/destroy this little "dinging bastard", could you point me in the right direction. My sanity will be most appriciative... Have used search, typing "speed chime" and everything relating to the word "speed" comes up, so, didn't really get far... Thanks.

If anyone has bought a "pre-fabricated" exhaust system for their ceffi, could you post up what brand and size etc, maybe even a picture? OR... does the Ceffi have a "sister" car that an exhaust system will be able to match from?? for example: S13 coil overs fit to A31 Cefiro.... Thanks.

Hey inside the boot is a latch under the locking mechanisim, you and "flick" or WD40/gease up that and you should find any sticking might be resolved. Sorry if it's too late. Cheers.

Has it been tuned...? also, if it's recent and it's happened since the engine has been done and a work shop has done the work, then take it back, with 3 letters... "W.T.F"?

Hmm, missing, as fun as it is to search it out yourself, IMO, take it to get a tune and let someone do that for you... also, you get your car dyno'd and tuned at the same time

Sorry, but if you're looking for BIG HP, minimal LAG and essentially a torque beast... drop me a line, because all of those goals conflict each other. So, if you find something that offers all these things... shoot me an email. In ther meantime... get big turbo, add camshaft(s) and tuning to widen torque band and you should have a good goer... also, look at bigger injectors and possibly fuel pump to keep the fuel supply up. IMO, look at your support systems before the turbo is added. Regards, Grant

hey mate, Not sure if you have tried, but www.rb20det.com might be able to help you out. Hope you get the info you need. Regards, Grant

Like the subject.... The oil light comes on at idle occasionally... it is happening more and more often, the level seems to be ok... when I move, it's not on and doesn't pop up, only at idle... give it a rev and it's gone.... to me it's strange... any ideas, what it may be? For some reason my tiny battery running a sub/ entire car might have something to do with it... not 100% but it may be an idea? Thanks... P.S. Should mention, I'm running bigger fuel pump/injectors/engine capacity/turbo all the bits and pieces, and unsure, if the oil pump has been upgraded...

I've just curious, as it seems as though the only major bodykit people can get is the URAS kit, which don't get me wrong is a nice kit, but not for everyone. So, naturally almost anything can be adapted if the place doing the work is good enough to cut and shut, but is there any car (silvia, gtst, etc) that has the ability to be bolted straight up to the bodywork/dimensions of the cefiro?

Does this mean GTR or GTS-T seats? Or both? So they are straight fit to existing rails?? Also, R32 Brembos as found on V-Spec or GTS-T once again?? And does this mean both front and rear calipers and rotors can be changed with the 5 stud hub?

As I'm sure we're all aware some of our imports come with "tuned ROM" from Japan... Such is the case with my Cefiro, and it's MINE's ECU. Now, on the plaque on the outside, it has been tuned for xx tubo and xx injectors and so on, however, it does have a "build/model number/code". AND I'm just wondering is there anyway of tracking these ECU's back to where they were tuned and what for, etc, short of calling MINE's and saying "could you track this ECU for me??" Thanks. Grant

Hey, Yeah I went to www.rb20det.com and found a ECU Pinout Diagram and associate key... Short of telling my what colour the wires are suppose to be, it looks pretty correct., when compared to my ECU, so, for now, it should be alright ... unless I blow up the car.......... Cheers.

So, I've used google to search the forums for it, but everyone doesn't seem to have much on it, mainly because of all the modifications our Ceffi's go through when in Japan, and all the different combinations they can have. BUT, just curious if anyone knows... if there is no specific diagram, is the R32 GTS-T or even an S13 closer to the pinouts on the ECU? Any help, GREATLY appriciated.

I just paid $745 (E-Boost 2)and I'll be doing a self install. So, we'll see how it goes... The Jaycar kit, all up plus an hour or 2 of your time cost about <$150 - although, does it have a "BLING" display like the E-Boost (2)?? Also, you'll need a boost gauge and that can be anywhere from $80-$$$$$.

I'm going to be using the Turbosmart E-Boost 2 - Apparently, features +++ and controls the extarnal gates NO Problem... So, reviews and peoples experience will be the determining factor I think.... Good Luck in choosing... there is heaps out there.

Hmm, "turning up the wick" didn't do anything... Boost gauge still reads 0.5bar... and car doesn't pull like it used to, like when it was the gate was VTA... Anyone got any ideas? Would making it plumbed back into the exhaust create a restriction and hence only run 0.5bar?

Hi, I'm running a TRUST External Wastegate and have just changed it back from VTA to plumbed into the exhaust (defect issues and so on). However, no it seems to be running only 0.5bar - Which doesn't even crack the gate open (well doesn't seem to).... Does anybody know what may be the cause of from running 0.8 VTA to 0.5 plumbed?? ALSO, do I wind the screw UP (out) or Down (in) to turn up the boost pressure???? Thanks.