Dale FZ1

Keen to see a bit more in-car and a few around the venue. Elevation changes really make a difference to the character and difficulty of a track. Hopefully all went well.

Be wary about linking the cold start and full load fuel delivery issues. Probably totally unrelated. Cold start will be something in the tune. Fuel delivery problems probably the pump wiring and/or a kinked/restricted fuel line as per previous posts. At 250rwkW you aren't really asking too much in terms of flow capacity. Sounds like you need a tuner who will/can work with you to diagnose and solve problems.

Post-season car checks and looking at accumulated GPS and engine data logs underway. I'm going to trial a smaller 10cm housing on the turbo - currently TDO6H-25G. Cheap swap, which should bring the threshold down hopefully 500-700rpm. On-track logs showed difference from dyno, obviously a far more dynamic environment and it's just not jumping off the slower corners when at low-mid rpm. Lower threshold and quicker rise due to some wastegate tuning changes (thanks Mafia) would give a lot more mid range pull. Currently it's so progressive that it feels very much like a big N/A motor. Very traction friendly but ultimately a touch lazy. The most recent in-car showed that yellow 180SX was far more capable in that area so perhaps that's all it requires in the short-mid term.

An "unknown" oil like Castrol LSX90 will do the job more than adequately for a fraction of the cost, added bonus you can get it nearly anywhere, anytime. (and you could substitute that brand with Penrite, Shell, etc. of a similar spec)

After a weekend at the track, I get a bit of an oily sweat on the diff - via the breather. Kaaz 1.5 way. And it gets a fair old workout. Checking levels there's no obvious amount lost. A little bit of oil on hot surfaces and being fanned about by airflow goes over everything. Think what happens in a kitchen environment. Do a regular degrease and monitor levels via the filler plug.

Run a pod filter intake instead of the OEM airbox, and have a freer flowing exhaust with smaller mufflers. Then wait for all the attention from your neighbours and a bit of law enforcement action due to the noise.

[media] [/media]

Competed in the Qld Super Sprints State Championships last weekend. Entered in the Modified Production >5000cc against a heap of LS powered Commodores. Also in the Mod Prod category there were a few well presented and driven Nissans (S13, R32), BMW (E46 M3), and a Toyota Yaris. Noticeably different feel to the earlier series events held in Autumn/Winter months with more daylight hours and generally higher ambients. Car preps were limited to newer tyres and a shift to 295 width fronts. And I played with the boost control during practice, achieving 18.5psi up from 16, with a bit quicker boost rise. No suspension or brakes changes from the previous round. Event format involved running two different versions of the Morgan Park circuit, K (3.0km) and D (1.5km). 3 fast laps with standing start. Trhree runs on each circuit, over the Saturday and Sunday. Finally, add the best two runs for an aggregate time to determine placings. The longer K track is much faster, but places more emphasis on chassis and balance as it flows. The D track is more hp oriented. Short story, achieved a new PB on each one, 1.27.2 on K, 48.7 on D. The aggregate time was comfortably quickest for >5000cc, and just pipped the S13 and E46 to be quickest Mod Prod also. It was not an easy win to take - those guys pedalled hard. Got a little in-car uploading that will be linked.

Setting new PB on both circuits on consecutive days is a good effort. No breakages a great indicator of strength. Waiting for the full report on these events.

Fortunately you're too far south to encounter crocodiles and drop bears. Hopefully you enjoy what Australia has to offer.

Don't tease with a few workshop mock ups without the money shot, unless patent pending. Get everything fitted to the car, run it and report back with the results of your efforts.

One benefit of going with the Evo Brembos is that there's a wide choice of pads available from nearly everywhere. In truth there's probably little practical gain by doing a caliper change for the vast majority of R32-4 owners on this forum. Quality pads, fluids, braided lines (maybe), and some air guides would probably do the trick. Unless people are doing track work with 20+ minute sessions and things are getting mighty hot, needing the extra heat sink benefit of big rotors. Gotta say I like looking at the progress on a job like this, but the pics and details are a bit scant especially how the job's being done. I wonder if there's been any sums done to determine what front/rear bias these Porsche calipers will give? Relying on ABS to counteract a poor front/rear bias isn't what I would like to see. But there's a strong argument (for me) that this upgrade should be matched with a pedal box and adjustable bias. Not a cheap or quick undertaking to get right.

Remarkably, others have experienced some problem or other in their HICAS. Seems to be a linkage to other mods eg. aftermarket steering wheels. Forum searching can help.

Sounds like pad knock off, Wing.

When this intermittent fault happens, get the bonnet up and a second set of eyes. Look/listen what happens with the car stationary when the wheel is turned. Also try to determine if the problem goes away if you stop the engine, ignition off/back on and restart. Apart from having HICAS lock bar kit you haven't given much info to go with eg. what fault finding you have done, what other mods the car has etc.

Start with the very basics. No funny noises coming from the pump or steering? If so investigate to see where it's coming from, or what it's associated with. Any signs of power steering fluid leaks? If so resolve them. Power steering fluid reservoir at full mark? If not fill it. Power steering drive belt correctly tensioned? If not fix it. Power steering belt have any stray oil/fluid contamination so it can't drive the pump? If so degrease it. I don't think there's any likely relationship between the HICAS lockout and what you're describing, given it's only recently started happening.

They are an excellent pad. Very under-rated or perhaps just not as well known/marketed as other brand names. I used them for road and occasional track, probably used 5 sets over time. Price and performance is spot on for that sort of application. Not too dirty, and didn't eat rotors.

Always good to see a nice fresh coat of paint.

Search through the N/A section. There's a VH45 conversion owned/run by Captain Natro, who (I think) is maybe from the Toowoomba area also. If it had to be a Nissan V8, go VK56. Cubes count. On that front, go LS. 7 litres of goodness. If you want to keep sanity, as per Bob's suggestion go RB30DET.

My Brembos came in red, but after an overhaul with new seals etc I painted them black. Absolutely no cred. But they work. And they took a bit of work to make fit.

Car Make and Model: R33 GTS-T Circuit Name: Morgan Park D Circuit (1.5km) Lap time: 0:49.1 E Circuit (2.1km) Lap time: 1:09.8 K Circuit (3.0km) Lap time: 1.27.5 Timing method: MyLaps, QStarz Modifications Engine: RB30DET, cams 8.9mm 265 deg, Kinugawa TDO6H-25G turbo, ViPec ECU Power: 375rwhp on 16.5psi Suspension: MCA Red, springs 14kg F, 5kg R. Also 15kg F, 5.5kg R. Stock swaybars. Tyres: Hankook Z221 C70, 265/35x18 F, 295/30 x18 R Brakes: Evo Brembo fronts, Evo 10 350mm rotors, stock rear rotors and calipers, Winmax pads Body weight: 1375kg, caged and race seat

1.09.6 compared to what earlier efforts? And did you lay down a few laps in that range or was it a banzai one-off? Sounds like you're happy with the car and what it's doing though. Post up some youtube links, always good to see a Skyline going fast on track

There's a wealth of information in the RB25 dyno section here about what people have achieved with various combinations. It's all well and good wanting a hp number, but you've got to be clear what the performance needs are, application the car is being used for etc. eg. you "should" comfortably achieve 300-350rwkW with either a GTX3076 or a GTX3576, or a TDO6SL-25G or a TDO6H-25G. Bigger turbine setup in both cases would probably shift the best torque range upwards by between 500-1000rpm. Not good for 100 percent street, maybe not a problem for 100 percent track if the engine really doesn't have to perform under 4000rpm. Then the split pulse, and fuel spec (E85 has become very popular here in Aus) are other variables to consider as mentioned. If you're new to SAU, take the time to trawl the forum - it's a well worn path and the same questions have been kicked around for a long time.

Assuming an OEM loom layout, there's a few common earths that mount near the temp sender. TPS earth is amongst them. If you wanted to get a bit more serious, it's not that hard to make a little jumper to join that earth point to the body. But I would suggest just follow the original comment.

Pics show your inlet manifold has been painted - I'll back it in you've got an earthing issue. Check the earth point VERY closely - the thickness of paint does terrible things to electrical circuit continuity. Use a Stanley blade to scrape the paint back to bare casting, put a bit of silver anti seize on it and the terminals for all the components that earth there (TPS will be one of them). ^^ I went through this, problem solved.