Dale FZ1

^^ Consider boost leaks from any/everywhere. I'd also think about the air intake pipe, filter, intercooler piping, intercooler, and every part of the exhaust system. Some flow-restrictive areas aren't immediately obvious until after they're changed, and the hp output increases like magic. I wouldn't consider it "that" easy to push a setup like VKAdam has up near the 400kW mark without a few challenges. But what he's got now is pretty impressive!

Great news, great result. Got pics of the install? As per PWRLaurel, interested to see more about the manifold (and gate/s) setup.

Talk to an engineer Matt, and see how they interpret that. Perhaps they will. Quick count I think there's at least 16 pivots/mounts that could go to uniball in an R chassis. At ~ $100 per joint for quality replacement (no sane person would install low quality sphericals - would they??) there's a hefty bill for the suspension maintenance schedule - quite aside from the cost of the initial conversion.

Spherical bearings deal with arm-mount gross misalignment issues when altering ride height and alignment. Otherwise stick with rubber. Far more durable than uniballs on the road, and won't flog out like urethane. Too many people zero-in on the idea of "removing slop", when their changes have fundamentally shifted the alignment away from "right". Adjustable length arms are far more important to making the car handle and feel right once moving away from stock.

The fact you've got a non-standard oil pump says the engine has been out before, and subjected to some sort of build/rebuild. Have you consulted with the engine builder and/or the person who recently replaced the seal? Why was the seal replaced? - and what was the previous one looking like? Are you sure you got the correct seal, and that it was installed properly? Pressurized crank case won't destroy a front main seal as described. Post up a picture. Spitting a bit of oil through the breathers and into the inlet is nothing extraordinary, especially if it's running higher than standard boost (290awkW says yes). No indicator whether you're blowing blue smoke or black - could be oily inlet, could be rich AFR (poor tune), could be both. Either way, this is not likely related to your main seal problem.

It's always amazing what some colour changes and graphics can do! Looking good Tim. So WTAC is happening for you? Keep the mechanical preps up, and report how it's going.

^^ Bob makes a lot of sense with this suggestion. Especially when the application "mainly for the street" is considered. IMO the engine is not going to need a huge amount of magic stuff. If it's not tired, leave it well alone. Lift the head and install a MLS HG, then do whatever turbo install you choose. Keep revs under 76-7800. Go with a flex fuel setup for E85 when you know the extra power is wanted. Otherwise 300rwkw is pretty much the upper end of what most people could ever hope to use or justify for "street" use. Biggest letdown is generally suspension, tyres, diff as per Johnny's comments if it's not going to the ground it's only for the pissing contest..

The real deal is who was driving them, and what rubber they were using. Checking the list over, that's quite an achievement to be happy with. Keep plugging away, no doubt there's more speed in the car and yourself

Good stuff. It should spit a bit of gravel. And you're teasing with the other thing all cut away and running tube framing.

Clubmen equates (in terms of competition driving experience & ability) to those average Joes (most of us) who aren't experts, but have progressed beyond first-time novice. Nothing to do with Lotus 7 type or similar cars.

Heading towards 1 sec/km faster is significant. Sounds like things are stepping forward for you. Good work! Nothing inherently wrong with the OEM spec brakes with decent pads and fluid. There's a lot more performance in them than most people understand. How does ~1.35 go for clubman runners, especially anything that's going to push its front end around on those tighter corners?

So Harry - at the price point where AR1 (and NT01) live - you're not seeing anything about the Nankangs that's a negative from a clubman motorsport perspective? Bearing in mind that's about the level of most forum conversations and budget constraints for "average" enthusiasts. Seems the AR1 on a heavier car, dry track, can do the job for hillclimb (nearly dead cold rubber) and sprints (~10 - 15 minute session so generating a bit of heat) pretty well, faster than the Nitto with more grip generally. It will be interesting to see how they go for durability. How do they feel for carcass rigidity, and progressive breakaway when they do slide? I'm very interested to see what you think overall. Accepting they're not likely to perform at A050 or Z221 level, these things have to be on a few people's lists when not chasing sheep stations.

Sorry to hear this happened for you Laurent. I wouldn't blindly accept that conclusion. How high are you revving the engine? Look closely at bearing clearances, and oil spec. Have the journals been refinished/polished? If so the standard of finish should be investigated too.

Getting close to the end result. Adding camber will pay dividends for track use.

All steps forward. Keen to hear the results.

^^ Andy the truth is for most cases there's far more gain in having optimised inlet, exhaust, and cooler piping than there is cams. Comments from Stao in his Hypergear thread bears this out. But changing to these baby upgrade cams sure isn't going to hurt. Going to be interested to see your results.

Touch wood - mine has given zero problems over a few years of track only use. I expect it will stay that way. Have to check my race diary but about 12 events consisting of practice day then 2 race days for the weekend. A bit more demanding than a typical half day event offering 4-5 sessions. However - I did not just unpack and then bolt on. Spent about 2 hours with die grinder and grit blasted the hand finished result. Then had it ceramic coated. It has proven fit for purpose and application at the power level I'm running. Any of these fabricated manifolds "should" be checked and given some finishing if warranted. It's a matter of observing due diligence and preparing things for reliability. I'm certain that there's some far better manifolds out there, simply that the user pays for the prep and finishing.

Well done Neil! I've heard it described as a social weekend with a bit of motorsport thrown in. Entry numbers definitely point to the popularity of this format, need to get along and check things out. Pity it was the weekend straight after QSSS; time is always hard to find.

So... head off, lifters given a birthday, and reset the cam timing?

I've been running 18x10 +12 with 265s up front. Nothing too serious on guard work, an hour with tin snips & hammer, and screwed on some flares. Works well, beats trying to roll a lip etc.

Presuming you've had something done with the head? Pretty economical with the detail Adrian. Do a bench test and see for yourself what happens to injector spray patterns with bigger base pressure. Takes the guesswork out of whether you need to listen to what "people" say. Probably going to be hard to beat a Walbro 460 if you need a new pump. Contact Mafia for some comments/experience on what works well and how to control the pump to best effect on a road car with Link/Vipec ecu tricks.

Ran the 33 again last weekend. Fourth and final round of the QSSS A Series, running the 2.1km E circuit. Played with brake setup again, really getting acquainted with how to find a happy point for pedal effort, pedal position, and bias. The more I'm doing with them, the easier it is to understand. BMC sizes currently 7/10 and 3/4. During practice it became evident that spring rates weren't right for this more technical/twisty version of the Morgan Park complex and I had to deal with understeer very noticeable at Gum Tree and Siberia. Ride height changes and shock setting changes weren't quite getting the result, so a softer set of front springs went in for the event. Result was a far better balanced car that turned in well, held a line and didn't really understeer or oversteer unless provoked by poor driving technique. Brake balance, feel, and pedal effort were extremely good, very progressive and strong. During Friday practice, took the opportunity to have my first half serious run in a GTR (thanks Mafia), and decided I never want another competition car without a non-assisted balance bar brake setup. That thing had ferocious braking ability but none of the progressive braking effort or feedback of my dirty old 2wd. It did have stick, and could rev though... Few niggling little issues to deal with over the weekend (anyone who says they had a perfect weekend aren't telling the truth) and the car was running times equalling its (my) best, but doing it without feeling like it was trying to have an off. So, car feel better, driver confidence up, and more repeatable times than before. Great weekend, plan to run again next season. [media] [/media]

So you have been running the aftermarket cams already, for a considerable time?

End of the day, they can be a handy improvement to "whole of engine package" - with a few riders. Not much point under the 300rwkW mark - change turbo spec and/or add boost. Or change fuels if not on E85 (and yes we know you are on some home brew Adrian). Expect some change to idle sound, but no real change to idle quality. You can/would play with the fuelling and ignition in a couple of cells depending on what you want to achieve in that area Possibly a small lift in useable rpm ceiling before it noses over, and slightly softer down low. Probably an increase in fuel consumption - if this grind gives some increased overlap over OEM for scavenging then that's to be expected. For road use only, and if you're hell bent on best fuel economy, not much point. But it's kinda fun to play a bit and see for yourself. Worst case scenario, go back to stock cams for a known quantity if you're not happy.

Depending on water pump control, bring the WI in earlier and give it more ignition sooner. Each system and engine might like a little more or less, but "arguably" a well calibrated WI can perform as well as an E85 setup.