Dale FZ1

Can't see your dyno sheet, bear in mind it only demonstrates what happens under full load. Not the real world transient response. I drove Mafia's 3076 0.63 setup, and reckon for road use that turbo with either water injection or E85 it's great on a RB25. Comes in earlier, also signs out earlier. But gives easy access to big streetable hp. Not ideal for track, IMO though. Street use only, run with the 0.82 split pulse. But you must be prepared to get a well designed manifold with twin gates. That's going to cost, but it will get the best result. Wolverine's 3082 0.82 split pulse setup was extremely smooth and progressive. Don't recall that it rolled over up top, seemed pretty good. If you're running E85 it should be sensational. A single scroll 0.82 would be far simpler to get a decent manifold and gate setup. Less complexity, less cost. Easier to install and maintain stuff. Again on E85, you're way ahead. Still, have to expect it will take around 4000-4200 to make 22psi, but it would run hard to 7500, maybe more given you have non standard cams. You are probably going to find the 1.0x GT30 housings (in either single entry or split pulse) much less easy to get onto - do you know what their actual availability is? The thing I have noticed when playing with a 1.06 split pulse housing was that they are bulky and really make access to the oil & water lines on the centre cartridge very difficult. That alone would be enough to make me look elsewhere. For best results, you can't beat cubic inches. Get a RB30 bottom end under that head. Run with the simpler/cheaper single scroll 0.82 and E85.

^^ The above is working on the assumption you have played with traction arm lengths and established a happy rear end geometry that is not bump steering as you exit corners (ie toeing out under compression through body roll).

^^ Very good common sense, and decent questions to put back at you. Provide more detail so people can get an idea. Do you know what the car now weighs fully fuelled and ready to drive? 2wd R chassis should be somewhere in the 1380-1420kg bracket and about 60:40 weight distribution. Depending on what detail you can give, there may be some simple setup and experimenting to get it in the ballpark without throwing money and parts at the car. eg you could drop rear ride height 10mm and se what happens. Or adjust the shocks. Or disconnect one of the rear sway bar links. Or adjust tyre pressures. It's way too easy to over think this stuff. I have not attempted to establish where my roll centres are, and probably don't need to unless I'm out to win a championship (I'm not). But it's proving to be reasonably brisk for a club car, even if it does get some minor oversteer on exit. Make sure your rubber is the biggest and softest you can fit, and afford. And not old, heat-cycled out garbage. Make sure your performance as a driver is consistent, and you're using sufficient throttle control if it's got a fair bit of stick.

It looks schmick, nice job. But why go to staged injection when you can run injectors up to 2000cc that will idle and run nicely down low as well? If it's bling, I understand. But the work / complexity increase would make me shy away.

also did another test day in the emo, they are annoyingly quick little bastards. did a 1.06.2 at wakie on old tyres which is 0.7 faster than I've ever done in the GTR....still not heading permanently to the dark side though, it's nowhere near as much fun If you've got one and competing in it, you're already there. What's annoying about Evos is they are so competent out of the box. Is Fatz likely to come out and admit he's had a go too?

2 x 044 in-tank? How difficult to get them both down that narrow slot? I'd be a bit surprised if a single Walbro 460 would hit the mark with 400rwkW and be comfortable with doing it. But then you'd be looking at wiring, lines, reg, and filter setup, IMO.

^^ this is a reasonable point made, depending on what the car is being used for. But OP was asking specifically about that manifold.

I run one on my car, and saw another one on another track R chassis car this weekend gone. There are no complaints about mine, very functional if maybe not having the same bling factor as some other brand names. No issues with fitment or build, although it doesn't look to be in the same league as (say) a Full Race. Somewhere in a build project you've got to draw a line on finances, and if you don't require absolute top end performance I'm sure one of these will do the job at a reasonable price.

Show a few pics of your fuel system, particularly the surge tank, how you mounted the fuel pump and what was done with the fuel lines. It's a good looking car, seem to have covered your bases pretty well with a lot of good bits. I'm interested to see how far the 20G compressor spec will go for flow (read: max power output). I reckon it will have great response, and even if you're capped at 300kW it's got the makings of a quick club car.

think of it as rear-wheel assist rather than all wheel drive. Not dissimilar to X trail type characteristics. Fundamentally not a bad thing, but not really a performance car and pretty thin on the ground. Nearly bought one 19 years ago, predominantly automatic trans was all that was available. The auto was actually a reasonably good match to the vehicle though. If awd performance sedan is what you want, look at Evo. They come packed with the right fruit, and people have been playing with them for years. Not much that hasn't been done before.

Put it on the scales. If you could get a fully prepped/caged Evo 9 under 1350kg with fuel I'd be surprised. More likely a 100kg difference. Taking a punt that this thing will fly, and Fatz will renounce all GTR allegiances then fully convert to Emo status.

The picture shows it. Tilton 600 series underfoot MC.

We felt there were bigger gains to be had from adjustable bias than the rear Brembo kit, considering the relative component costs. My front rotors had obviously had a fairly serious workout, while the rears weren't stressed the same way. So I think the conclusions are fair. I'll be giving some updates as this kit goes in and run. I expect some teething issues (ie master cylinder sizing) plus a few fabrication challenges just fitting it all up. I will say up front that I don't think this is for everyone. Someone's got to have a go, and plenty of cars other than dirty old R chassis have had pedal boxes fitted before now.

Time for pre-season maintenance and a couple of planned upgrades. Front rotors had really done very good service, and for me there is strong evidence that there is very little wrong with stock R33 braking hardware, provided the well worn path of high quality pads, fluid, braided lines and BMC stopper is followed. Couple of seasons running and the front rotors were covered in little stress risers, but they sure weren't performing badly. I did decide to try something different from what I had, and went with the Evo Brembo / Alpha Omega / 350mm rotors up front. I hope they're something pretty good out of the box, because with a 1 piece DBA rotor there is a decent amount of extra weight added. Some good reviews so far says they should do the job a bit better. The other thing I decided to do was to chase some adjustable bias. Did not feel that the suggested 1 1/16" BMC change was going to achieve anything more than a shorter pedal. I'm not expecting this to go together too quickly but I expect the results will be worth it.

I'm with Duncan on this one. Once you've double checked all mounting faces are free of scale/debris, check the clearance again. Either have the supplier send some better spec (slightly thinner) adaptor brackets, or get yours machined. Take off 0.5mm will probably resolve everything. Not a big or expensive job.

If you were a bit serious on Hillclimbing, I'd look to a set of Avons in super soft compound. Hoosier probably do something similar spec/capability. If not, go for the Nittos they will work virtually from cold. Waste of good money on the Hankooks for motorkhana, even softs take a little temp to work. Hankook weren't "banned" from WTAC, but what regs are going to allow a tyre other than that made by a major event sponsor?

What's the running/wet weight going to come in at?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460755-mca-suspension-x-series-race-for-r33-gts-t-review/ This might give some useful ideas on what direction to take with suspension

^^ Mat, I'm tipping with MCA Red and a caged track-only 2wd R34 you will find the 14F/5R combination better than the 13/5. But you are somewhere in the right ballpark IMO. We trialled a couple of different combinations, 13/4.5, 13/5, 14/4.5 12/5. Depending on availability the plan is to run 14.5F / 5.5R next time and see how that goes. The spring rates being mentioned may not "look" right compared to what's been historically mentioned on this forum, or in the context of GTR. But it's what I have experienced, and in a R33 barge without aero.

Win, win, win. Great to hear. Hunt up some standard sway bars and try them out. Josh knows his suspension.

It's not that serious. But trying to get a better idea of what it's doing and how the thing feels compared to previous. Stopwatch says it is better.

So spring rates 10kg F, 7kg R. Whiteline sway bars 24mm front and rear. Can you explain characteristics with more words - not easy to interpret "edgy" ie. can you break down cornering behaviour in 3 sectors. Turn in, mid corner, and exit. What does the front and the rear do in those zones. And what is the Wakefield surface like? Any choppy sections, bony asphalt, or off camber sections that can all make setup hard to get sweet in these heavy chassis.

Be prepared to try up to +5mm toe out each side at the front. ie. total front toe out 8 to 10mm. If you're doing your own alignment you should have a good idea how much adjustment is required to get you in that ballpark (and back to where you currently are). 5 minutes with two spanners between sessions and you will soon know what works.

Wow. Awesome stuff, consistent with the quality of workmanship to date. Well done. Just don't run off - that thing is just made for plowing.

Keep the rears standing closer to upright. Target 0.5 - 0.75 neg. This will give best contact patch, which only decreases as the rear squats under acceleration. Fronts with <1.5 neg otherwise yes you will notice heavier wear. If it's only seeing track or hillclimb (ie not seeing any regular road use), target >3.0 neg.