Dale FZ1

R33 spec RB25 long engine. Suspected blown HG. Have new HG to suit. Comes with spare RB30 block/crank. Suit a RB30DET build. Can post pics but they look like all other RB engines and bits. $250 buyer collect. Location Sunshine Coast.

Sounds like the head gasket is shot. Worst case, you may have had a piston ring land fail. Head off, investigate further. Annoying, yes. Devastating, not really. It's probably seen some service, and presume you're happy to give it some stick?

Consistency and not driving over your head is a great approach. The R35 and S15 showed what can happen. Evo was using power on the straight bits, looked like he doesn't know it should have double the grip and twice the drive off the tighter corners though. Maybe you've seen the same sort of thing on gravel... Your car appears to be showing decent balance, noise from the front tyres in corners suggests they are working hard though. How did they go for wear - bashing the outside shoulder?

Sounding like it's coming together for you. Have a look at Winmax pads, an easy way to get very competent performance from stock brakes. What spring rates did you get?

Here's Saturday, run 3 on a warmer track. Car responded to the helm much better in that trim. Steady improvement to car and the driver's head will see times fall, and consistency between laps lift.

I have no interest in a 4wd car. Lots of homework being done, at the price I can understand. GL I hope it proves to be a good thing.

What's the asking price?

Final round of the QSSS A Series ran 2 weeks ago, far better weather than experienced for Round 3 in July. No arctic chill this time around. Decided to play more with suspension setup to see if we can achieve better drive off corners and dial out a bit of oversteer. Following advice from MCA, reconnected the rear sway bar and used Friday practice to experiment with rear spring rates. Tried out 2 lighter spec and the overwhelming characteristic was understeer. So we reverted to the 5kg rears for a better overall balance and decent mid corner front end grip but and just drive around the relative lack of rear grip. The lighter rear springs did give improved rear grip but just couldn't work with the heavy fronts we are currently using. Saturday brought consistent times and predictable handling but the rear traction and stability was costing time. Previous experiment by disconnecting the rear sway bar was good, so decided to leave it in place and drop rear ride height by 5mm to see what happened. Doesn't sound much, but it really hurt the good turn in and mid corner front grip. And the oversteer on exit was still there... Just drove to what it was doing, with a bit of commitment. Despite the handling being worse, the car was 2.5 seconds/lap quicker than Round 1 earlier in the year, or just over 1 sec/km for the rally-minded. The extra speed I attribute to newer rubber and more driving consistency. But we have identified the next spec to trial which will be slightly lighter springs both front/rear, and lifting the rear ride height that 5mm. Got one of the final runs uploaded with data overlay from Sunday, couple more to come. [media] [\media]

Has it seen a dyno yet? Been a while and the fanfare has died down.

Satin. Gloss is not going to look new for terribly long with scuff marks. And it's a big challenge to keep contaminants from getting in to the paint as it's laid down. Nice interior shine belongs on something for pretty pictures not a track tool. Less reflection can't be a bad thing.

Apparently there is a factory option/upgrade pack for the Evo 10 that uses a 2 piece rotor. They will offer the usual benefits over a 1 piece including lighter weight for less unsprung. But don't expect they come cheap. The DBA 4000 should be plenty good enough for the intended use, and won't break the bank. 3 times the price for 2 piece DBA5000, or about 20% more for the 2 piece Chinese gear like Attkd etc. The "floating" 2 piece design should decrease pad recession/knock off but have nothing to do with cooling.

Probably depends on the event, location, conditions, budget, performance and longevity requirements. Most likely a hard compound.

Cheap-arse gene normally dominates. Those Z221 will go great on the Soarer, probably more suited to shorter sprint events. I'd say super soft C90 if you can get them would be awesome hillclimb spec. Still be interested to see/hear people locally running the Hoosier. Price will keep numbers low but they seem to have a damn good reputation. For hillclimb the A6/A7 would be the choice.

No it doesn't. But it's toe out that brings about the lack of rear end stability that's the issue under discussion. If it's toeing in under bump, then it should generally stay reasonably composed. None of it is rocket science, and much easier to understand if explained simply. With basic equipment it can be corrected with fairly minor adjustment.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445063-r33-gtst-track-build/?p=7522364 This shows how you can sort bump steer issues yourself. Total cost of bits and pieces maybe $150 including a Chinese hydraulic bottle jack. Assuming you already have a set of chassis stands and trolley jack plus a level concrete floor to work on. It just depends how motivated you are to learn and have a go, vs finding a suspension specialist that knows how to sort these issues without charging ridiculous money. BTW, the relationship between the camber arm and traction arm might not be as per the suggestions above. If you want to stand the tyre more upright (good idea, target about 0.5 to 0.75 neg) then do that first. For the bump steer, think about what the wheel has been doing at this point to achieve the bad handling. Wheel goes up, and starts pointing (toeing) out. That means the traction arm is too long. You should look at shortening the traction arm. Comments about small adjustments making a big difference are true. It's not something you should do by eye because there's no way of knowing what geometry you've actually achieved. If the arms aren't installed yet, do a measurement from centre to centre and match them to stock. Then acquire all the low tech but reliable bits to stringline and adjust to your heart's content.

Ditch the big throttle body and run a standard one. Will give a less sudden response from closed throttle. Run a bigger exhaust. 3.5 inch will be enough. Under a 4wd you should have plenty of room to play with. Unless you plan on running a 1.06 turbine housing on the GTX3076, consider a turbo spec that has better match of flow between hotside and coldside. Borg Warner have some pretty good offerings and prices are very good depending on what you choose. Not physically small units, but if it's sitting in a 4wd engine bay then space isn't likely a concern. What's the advice/recommendation from Lewis about cam spec and turbo for this application?

Things don't stack up here. Has an Evo driver pushing from behind, announces it to the world and says abusing them after a few beers pays off?? Just a short step to a gaily decorated float in Sydney, whole lotta love on a 4wd traction train.

Depending on the targeted effective operating rpm range of the engine it's hard to know given it's a 2 litre engine. For 5-8000rpm and tightly stacked gearing a TDO6S-25G would offer better exhaust flow than the L2. Can't imagine there's much need/concern for low end response with a drift car. Either way I'm staying tuned for the results

Ok need more punch than a 20G can deliver?

Nice bit of work that. What spec/size is the Kinugawa turbo?

This seems the obvious and first area to check. But there seems to have been a lot of effort concentrated on boost control and cam timing. This brought about bottom end improvements, pointing to decent outcomes. Then comments/suggestions drift quickly into using bigger cams which are effectively going to simply shift the curves to the right and sacrifice low/mid range. The original point of the thread was a reasonably low peak power number for the general engine spec. The torque curves shown in this thread show something that hits a peak and then just falls away. Troy's suggestion is where the investigation and power hunt should have started, and does not appear to have been addressed. Disregard whether its a quiet or loud exhaust system. Eliminate the muffler/s and cat, do a trial run on the dyno and establish for certain just how much they are holding things back. Low cost, low effort test. And you can then make an informed decision on what to do. Many instances where old/collapsing cat/mufflers are choking flow, and also where there are hidden neck-downs to quieten down flash name brand Jap exhaust systems.

A set of Hoosier R6 or the superceding model R7 might be a good thing for the Soarer

Let's see some in-car or it didn't happen

If you've got time to concentrate on a display, you're not driving hard enough.

Might cause raised eyebrows if you described "backing it in" to a corner.