Dale FZ1

Get an Evo, they do that from stock. Properly driven should be faster into/through most corners if lacking some of the straight line snot.

Did the organisers use MyLaps for this event? Just interested to look at times.

Looks spiffy in white. You'll need to wear sunglasses Any half decent build takes time and I don't reckon many average-Joes can set realistic time frames and hit the initial completion target. This thing should be worth the wait though.

Saw your post about flogging out the edge of steer tyres. How will you go about achieving 4 degrees of camber in the front of a GTR? Those 4wd things are a bit harder to get some decent front end geometry happening.

^^ The V6 TDi would probably do all that is required in a Amarok. I can't work out why they didn't bring one to market from the outset. The small capacity 4 cylinder probably does a good job but hard to think of it as having a long life if regularly towing heavy loads. In this case more cubic inches and torque would be a no brainer for sales/marketing but all manufacturers are downsizing.

Lit up like a drag car on the straight bits. How did that Evo compare into/through/off the corners?

Plenty of camber, none of this half-done 2.5 or 3 degrees stuff. Make sure your hardware allows for a good 5 degrees, then with clearance for that amount you'll never have troubles. The forward tub sections will be the area needing some love, particularly with a bit of caster pulling the wheels forward. I'm really looking forward to the end result.

Setup for this event wasn't changed by a large amount. Rear ride height was dropped 15mm and we trialed sway bar spec to see what worked. Ended up dropping a link out of the rear bar to effectively remove its impact on suspension and handling. All relatively small changes that have given a pretty noticeable increase in both front and rear end grip. Not much understeer or oversteer, pretty good as far as barges go.

The rear end will be a comparatively easy. Front end suggestion - get the ride height down near where you want it, crank on the camber and caster you will need, and with the springs removed from shocks get an idea of what rubs as you move the wheels through their suspension and steering range. Anything looking like rubbing needs some loving with a hammer to give clearance.

Very nice - orderly layout easy to follow. The 34 looks to have incorporated a bolt on gusset between the fuel tank hump and effectively the rear chassis rails. Interesting. I'd rate this build as more comprehensively thought-out than most, and the execution of each element is fine (no small compliment there either). Keep at it, most interested to see/hear results of the finished machine.

Practice laps Morgan Park Circuit K more practice, trying out the QStarz data logger. Relatively easy tool to use but painfully slow process to combine the data with video and create the end product. I think the real benefit of the logger is to use the software to compare laps and driver behaviour. $200 makes it a cheap addition to the race kit, and accuracy is fine for club motorsport purposes.

The aero has stalled. Focus on chasing a bit of MR2 setup and seeing the Evo running. Time and effort and $$ on corner weighting is probably less critical than getting ride heights (meaning suspension arm angles) close to right, and spring/sway bar combinations within the right ballpark first. My opinion only.

^^ Provided you're not planning on winning championships, the 2wd R chassis has a number of things that make it a good fun thing to own and drive on track. And you do get to the point of not being prepared to cut losses once you've gone down the path of track modifications. I'd say keep driving it if it makes you grin each time after a run.

If the flare job ends up as good as that blue thing you would have to be happy with that. Stick with the white centre wheels. More work to keep clean but it will stand out more on the track and in your pics.

Well done, the work is looking top quality and will pay off. Consider use of heat shielding and lagging in the engine bay to stop radiant heat off that turbo system frying wires.

Rear end ride height dropped and running standard rear "traction" arms probably combining to give a bit of bump steer. ie. suspension slightly loaded through the bends you describe, wheel hits the expansion joint and compresses the suspension a bit more. Results in a momentary toe change outwards. Gives nervous feel. On some setups this can be pronounced enough that the car will oversteer. The test: bring the rear ride height up 20mm and compare (no cost). The Fix: If that brings general improvement then take it to your suspension specialist, have a set of adjustable traction arms fitted and adjust things so you don't get toe change through your suspension travel.

Ballpark figures I think the 500-750rpm difference will be similar. If you've got the 0.87 housing it's not going to prove easy to get the smaller one. Past experience with the 3037 was that the bigger A/R option was better because it hung on and kept the engine making torque at high rpm. The penalty lower down isn't that great, and the bigger A/R still gave wonderfully progressive delivery. I wouldn't say that the 2835 will be the same, but it will be fairly similar.

Ballpark figures for a GT3037 are in the order of 500-750rpm, and ~ 15-25rwkW depending on complete setup and tune. Bigger housing will basically push the torque curve to the right so max power figure goes up. This unit should show a similar characteristic.

Most likely it depends on the production run as to what goes on the plate. Provided it's got the part/assembly number or the cartridge number(as per your build plate), you've got the right spec. Incidentally you will find that number may sometimes be stamped 700177-5003, or 700177-0003. Fishing around brought up the detail both on SAU and another site called Turbomaster in quick order. I wouldn't be worried about whether it's stamped with GT2835 or not.

Searching on this very forum and the very information you seek about the cartridge is here. The work was done for you 6 years ago. And yes, 87 in the housing mouth indicates an A/R of 0.87. If it read 68 it would be the smaller 0.68 spec

My kit has arrived. Time to start looking at what I want to do with the master cylinder arrangement, and the rear brakes. Might look closely at a twin MC with balance bar and upgrade the whole system.

what size rims and rubber are you fitting to the front?

Did someone say flares? Do it!! Have you sorted what ride height and suspension travel you are going to target?

What's the verdict on the cooling/airflow changes ie. bonnet louvres?

Assuming you are sizing the turbocharger to suit capacity increase, injectors ECU etc. And put a RB25 spec oil pump on the bottom end plus a crank collar to get full drive engagement on the pump. There haven't been any reported difficulties running stock 30E pistons with the Neo head, although diligence should dictate that you measure up to ensure nothing clashes. Static CR shouldn't be through the roof considering the R33 spec head achieves in the 8.3-8.4 range with a very light facing of block and head.