Dale FZ1

That looks GOOD. Will someone start a thread on the BW stuff and keep this one relevant to Kinugawa?

Josh if you have a reasonable budget to play with, I'd urge you to consider a BW. It's good to examine all reasonable options/combinations but I think there's better options than what's been discussed here. Look closely at the Airwerks range S200SX 7670, running T4 split pulse. Combine that with the small runner manifold you've mentioned and you ought to achieve extremely good response and hit the 450-480rwhp mark. That particular turbo is quite price competitive with what's been discussed here, but likely to easily outperform both for overall response:flow. No dicking around with "special" builds, and durability proven. It is evidently a reasonably well trodden path in the US, so perhaps worth a bit of wider searching, and enquiry through Full Race. They are also quite responsive to customers. Your biggest associated cost would be plumbing it all up with twin gates etc if you want to get the very best from it. The pictures of GTRJoey's 8375 install tells a story, but his results bear witness to the return on effort/expense.

Accessing/using the grunt is where I see priority. It could simply be a matter of driver preference and ability. Running them back to back on the road/track would make it clear which best suits, and proves whether the bigger number on a graph equates to a faster car. I'm not against the 20.5G, and agree its looking like a case of rob Peter/ pay Paul with the response/flow equation. You'd fully expect that the 20G boost tapering at higher rpm indicates it's running out of puff, but it might be that the quicker spool and beefier hit of mid range torque would fire that Skyline off each corner easier/faster than the 20.5 which then has a job to chase it down and hope the straight is long enough to make a pass before the next corner. The $100 price difference is not an issue in my mind. HG does have a lot of satisfied customers with positive comments about the service, which counts for a lot.

Check out Hoosier. Go wider, and go soft/super soft. You want them to grip from dead cold. Heavy tart R33 is going to give the rubber a workout but hard to think it wouldn't last a long time. You are only going hard for what - 60 seconds at a time?

It does appear that the dyno graph differences are related to boost delivery, and the 20.5G making more boost over 5000rpm. Whether that's more strongly related to pumping capacity (surely the 20G is hitting its peak, if the numbers on the graphs are an indication?), or boost controller settings only the tuner will know for sure. It's looking like a case of gain in top end at the cost of some spool and mid range. Would be interesting to drive the two back-to-back and see how they feel, rather than base it only on graphs. The 20G can't be dismissed as obsolete.

^^ I would like to see this also. In the absence of boost plots, the 20.5G looks to be a little lazier coming on, and then in the best useful torque zone (4000-7000) it flattens by comparison to the 20G up until 5500. And then it seems able to hold torque from 6500-7200 thereby producing the bigger power number. The 20.5G unit looks more linear (which I like) up where it's doing its thing across 4000-7000, but you've got to be able to consistently use that last 750rpm to make it worthwhile. Debateable which spec would be quicker point-to-point or around a track for a given car setup and driver of average/good ability. That aside, there is value in supporting an Australian business. For the minor cost difference customer service history might influence the final choice.

Josh - you'd have to chase an opinion from 6boost about what is needed for a BW. Look closely at the S200 range. From memory they have split pulse or open housings, using T4 flange. Perhaps get a thread going on the BW range, there's quite a bit on the 8374 but you are throwing ideas around about the smaller ones. Troy - you have the experience in the area of the TDO6-20G so I'll yield here. 300-310kW is strong by any measure but not always that easy to crack. Fuel would play a big role with this combination I reckon. There are Evos running up around the 400hp mark with the TDO6SL-20G on E85 but compressor flow/efficiency has got to be running out by then. Response/mid range should be the goal and one of these should make a decent account of itself.

^^ And don't we all Some of your other posts indicate going with E85. Not sure that the 20G would run past the 300kW mark, perhaps the HG 20.5G would go very close to fitting the bill. You'd expect pretty rapid response capability with either. Once you start going with fabricated manifolds and custom modified versions of the Kinugawa you'd be mad to not look further. I'm referring to BW and split pulse options. Depending on model/spec they can be very cost effective (if a little more difficult to fit due to physical size of the unit).

^^ That graph looks to fall over very quickly after 5500 - top end choking. What is SAT?

Josh the changes you're asking about are too extensive to worry about modifying the HKS/Garrett. If you aren't opposed to running an external gate off the housing and want to try out a Kinugawa, try a TDO6SL2-20G, or have Hypergear build one with their 20.5G compressor. Response and area under the curve, and not ridiculously priced.

I'd reckon 6th gear in the Tremec would be pretty much redundant for track use. Ratio selection/spread for 1-2-3 looks to be an improvement. Torque-load capacity obviously is a plus, so the things that I'd like to know is 1. how it handles quick-ish changes at high engine speeds 2. whether this box has its own selection of little components that fail like those little spring clips in the R33 box 3. how difficult/expensive is it to give a Tremec a freshen up if bits do get tired 4. how difficult/expensive is it to engineer a Tremec into a R chassis Not being negative, and I appreciate that Stuart is having a go at building a better package within a sane budget. Mostly I want to know if it's the sort of upgrade I would want to do.

8cm housing on a RB25 is going to choke.

I just happened to be on PI for a holiday, early Saturday morning walks I bumped into the Heasman's crew and easily got talked into heading to the circuit to check things out. Managed to meet a couple of SAU members, checked out the R33 GTR, R34 GTR, S13, S14, S15, R33 GTSt, Commodore, and the Ginetta (from a distance). Today was a travel day to return home, pity I missed a chance to meet more SAU members. The Vic scene looks healthy, and people approachable for a yarn. Club motorsport is where it's at. And I finally got to see why PI is raved about - I'd like to bring my car there for a run but it's a long drive from Qld. The only negative I found was the weather down in those latitudes is everything it's cracked up to be...

Appears that the right bits are going into it. What about the manifolding and snail?

Pictures please

Time for a dedicated thread on these issues I reckon? I'm thinking Scott Black's on the money here. Sounds broadly similar to what happens with methanol - the hardware doesn't cope well if the fuel is left to sit in tanks and lines. Maybe not in all instances with E85, but reports are common enough and seem to involve those cars being left to sit between events and maybe running a few times per year. I'd like to hear what happens for those guys who drain their tank and purge the system with petrol.

Ok there's possibly a few things going on there that make direct comparison difficult. What difference/similarity in spec between those 3 for exhaust manifolding, exhaust system, inlet pipe/filter, and intercooler/piping?

Fabulous!!! Better IMO than a GTR. Pity they are so damn hard to get in to Australia. They've got to be a well balanced bit of gear, far more nimble than any R chassis. Keep the pics coming, and keep the whale tail.

Really good work there. Interesting approach with the power steer belt idler. Likewise the gearbox - what's the expected benefits from fitting one of those? Keep the pictures coming.

Are you running petrol or E85? Haven't heard of paper filters failing or being inadequate for the job with petrol. Z200, used with 8mm lines and petrol have had good results. What size fuel lines are you using?

FMW = Forged Milled Wheel in B-W speak. So billet compressor. I've found getting a good seal in the bores can take much more than 15mins on the dyno, especially when using chrome rings. A good flogging with plenty of combustion pressures pushing the rings out, and a mineral oil helped mine immensely.

Often it's useful to just try something and see the results for yourself. I know one of the high end WTAC runners is using HPR30. Primary benefit of the synthetic lubricants is long service life due to the resistance to shear. If this is not a registered car and effectively used for short run events, there is some good logic in trying different spec oils especially if you dump the oil after an event. What are we talking about - an hour or two runtime? I do note that your first post in this thread referred to the car getting a hard time on the street though... Removing/refreshing your lifters does not require that they be replaced. They are easy, but time consuming, to disassemble then scrub clean accumulated varnishes and reinstall. Buildup of that stuff does not allow older lifters to perform as new, but when cleaned they are effectively renewed. I'm using a 8.9mm 265 degree cam spec with Performance springs, freshened lifters and a 15/50 oil. No issues or valvetrain noises cold or hot and track only use. Good luck with your powercruise event, and please post up how things go.

I meant more with reference to the increased cubic capacity of the engine - ie. bigger engine, with the FMW and larger turbine A/R would the spool and general response be as good/better with the prospect of those extra hp at higher rpm if the turbine housing doesn't choke things? The FMW seems to offer hp benefits but it's a juggling act to maintain response characteristics. Otherwise, the bigger cubes engine and maintaining turbo spec will surely make for an easy driving package that just floods you with boost at lower rpm and throttle angles than with the 26 engine. Following with interest.

As a matter of interest I wonder what benefit or difference might come from a move to the S300SX 8375 FMW with TS 1.0a/r turbine? Be good to hear Geoff's view on that one.

See post #3 from zoomzoom. Crack the bleed nipple. Slip on a tube and collect the fluid that will be displaced when you push the pistons back. (makes for less mess to clean up later) Lift the piston dust seals and spray a bit of brake assembly fluid under them. It's good slippery stuff that doesn't go away, and helps prolong the life of the seals too. Use a couple of wide bladed drivers or even a couple of inch wide wood chisels between the pad and rotor, and work the pistons evenly back into the caliper. Remove the retaining clips and pins from the caliper. Install new pads and bleed brakes. (if you've got old pads that need replacing, your old fluid will have wanted purging too) Face or replace rotors as necessary.