Dale FZ1

Couple more pics. The rear parcel tray sheetmetal was removed, as was some sheet used to mount the OEM seatbelt reels. Integrity was maintained by the rear tower brace, much closer to the struts than I've seen other efforts that basically tie the tubs

The power figure is just a number, Mark. It's how/where the thing delivers that this thing should show its worth. A slightly smaller, earlier spooling unit (vs the well regarded 3076) really should be making the most of things lower in the rev range and putting distance on the bigger units before they get a full head of steam. You'd expect that they are going to blow by in the higher revs. It would be good for Mafia to comment here, but I do believe the 0.63 IW housing did experience difficulty with boost control and was only happy above 18psi. BHDave also struck similar issues with his 3071. I'd suggest your builder might be looking to avoid that, but reckon this unit may not pose the same problems if so configured. Either way if this 0.82 setup ended up making 16-18psi by around 3200rpm and the engine continued to make torque up to 7000 without falling over, you'll be on a good thing. 250 is only a number, and if it made 260 on pump 98 I'd think you've got a winner.

It's primarily for super sprint type events. The cage I'm really satisfied with. It is very much modelled along the lines of a rally car and is a reasonably competent ROPS. Not that this thing is planned to go on its lid... It does have a few more bars than I've seen in some club circuit car builds looking for minimum weight, but the calculated penalty is about 20kg max. We'd be kidding ourselves to ever think that a basic-build R chassis is ever going to be light, and I could drop 10kg if I was so inclined. I'm happy that there is a robust safety structure around me, and if I want a lightweight car I will be building a Clubman. By comparison with Neil's cage I currently have not installed either a lower lateral brace on the main hoop, or Sainz bars at the A pillars. Cross bracing above/behind the driver is a little different also. Looks like a V formation in each area, but stand back and it's actually a big X that starts on the windscreen head rail and ends at the rear cage mounts. Thanks to Neil for helping with a few pics and his views on things. The improvement in chassis rigidity is significant. Jacking under one corner now makes it quite easy to lift 3 wheels off the ground. And it's very noticeable in driving the thing. My view is that the cage is your fundamental framework that the car is built around, and this thing hits the marks. Cage construction by MR Sheetmetal in Nambour. Well known fabricator in rally, winch challenge, and off road racing circles. Highly recommended.

Adrian I've driven both 0.63 and 0.82 and 0.87 Pro S equipped GT30 setups. And I've provided comment about relative performances. Characteristics aren't radically different. Basically the smaller housing provides higher gas speeds earlier, and at least with Mafia's setup also became restrictive earlier so it stopped making torque in the higher rpm range (ie power peaked sooner than the 0.8 sized housing). The on boost torque curve effectively shifts to the left by 500-750rpm dependent on pipework, attention to smooth transitions, and whether it's on alcohol or water injection. Your 52T 3076 if/when tuned should be on full song from somewhere between 3800-4200 so that should tell you when Mafia's became lively. Andrew's comments are hitting the point. He's got the experience of having owned/tuned a few GT30 variations and this smallest unit is going to need some shaft speed to start pumping. And it's not likely to have enough compressor to seriously tax the flow capacity of a 0.63 and choke it. I'd think that you blokes were reasonably accurate in saying the 0.63 "should" be the best match for this 3067 spec on a RB25. The 0.82 is likely to just make it take longer to come on. Mark has indicated several times he was hoping for an outcome similar to the 2835 Pro S, and with the smaller housing I think it will. Plenty of ignition advance will help the 0.82 spec unit drive into boost and feel as lively as a 2.5 can, but I'd certainly want this baby making noises sooner to justify/accept the lower peak flow it provides. I'm still thinking the projections for anything much over 250rwkW on petrol only (ie no E85 or water injection) as wishful thinking. I do think it offers good streetable potential and hits the targets Mark is chasing. Watching with interest but it's not going to be the magic solution that the hype has been suggesting here.

Photo quality is pretty average but the aim was for good component access and have everything properly (securely) mounted. The whole shell was painted inside, underneath, engine bay and boot in Massey Ferguson grey. Outside got a hit of white 2 pack. Colour choices for practicality and less difficult repairs if it gets bent. Don't ever think that a colour change on a 33 is any small undertaking if you plan on doing a reasonable job. On the upside, it was very good to find no evidence of rust/corrosion in the body.

ECU relocated from lower kick panel area to the behind-dash cross brace. Lower front leg sections of the cage forced our hand on that one but as a big plus the ECU is now much more easily accessed with the glove box gone.

Battery relocated and water injection tank installed. Makes for easy access to those systems, and also for much improved access to the in-tank pump 044 Bosch.

Probably time to show a few pics from my build now it's caged and been run. Won't bore people with pics of removing sound deadener and street car gear, they've been done before and this chassis is no different. Specs R33 series 1. Cage/seat/harness. A/C and heater system removed. Complete stock harness retained but re-routed. 30DET engine currently running high mounted Kinugawa turbo. Vipec v44 plug in ECU. Exedy clutch, standard box, 4.375 diff gears and Kaaz 1.5 way centre. MCA Red suspension, adjustable rose jointed arms. Guards cut/flared. I'll post up a few pics that might be of interest, once I can get the pics to load up.

^^

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasing traction friendly delivery and proper boost control. Spools down low, makes/holds/controls boost flat line from 3500-7000rpm (limit). Peak torque follows the same, just a flat line no drop. Dyno was a problem with tyres wanting to fry from 6000 onwards. Boost limited to 16.5psi for the targeted application. No problem bumping more in but we want traction/drive not a hp number. Made 375rwhp / 280rwkW by 6500. Projecting the line to 7000 its probably making another 15-20hp by the limit however that's not the important bit to me. Fuel is 98, ignition is conservative. Delivery is smooth and progressive, spool is slightly slower than the old 3076 Pro S 0.87 but it is a more traction friendly setup for roughly the same hp on about 2psi less boost. It's really not operating under 3500rpm on the track so it's a good thing to drive. 3076 was a lovely thing but tuning revealed boost control was difficult and it wasn't capable of holding less than 18psi. It was also much more aggressive to build into max boost which was not as traction friendly with a 2wd ECR chassis. There are going to be more efficient setups but this thing hit my performance expectations and within budget.

OP was complaining about oversteer hence the comments about rear end adjustments and ride height. Depending on what is fitted/changed (or not) it is possible to achieve bump steer ie. dynamic toe change as the suspension goes up/down at either end. Altered ride height does affect things. Open to conjecture but I'd be looking into it if I was the OP. Harry was onto it early in this thread. Investigating and/or fixing it may mean having someone do it for him if he's not sure how.

The further away (lower) from standard ride height, the more pronounced rear bump steer becomes. It is countered by installing and adjusting rear adjustable links - the forward/upper ones sometimes referred to as "traction arms".

Bump steer front and rear. I agree with an earlier comment about this. Those pretty LCA and tie rod ends don't show true perspective but if they're running on different planes then it's going to do silly things as the suspension goes through its travel range. Same thing goes for the rear.

Assuming you're running the R32 V Spec in your sig. GTX3576 with 0.82 T4 split pulse should be close to the mark. I'm not entirely sold on the GTX3076 combination, but a single scroll T3 1.06 housing should give some good turbine flow capacity for high rpm breathing efficiency. I'd think a 0.82 housing would restrict the usable rev range - not what I'd want from a RB26. RB26 won't pull too hard under 3500 anyway, but either of the suggested combinations should do a fair job between 4000 and 8000rpm plus.

The inducer size of the compressor impeller is what changes. As you go up from 16-18-20, the compressor basically gets a bigger gulp capacity. Check for a few comments posted by Lithium regarding the TDO5-16G6, similar/same spec as an Evo. Be aware that there are different TDO5 turbine rotors. Hardsteppa has played with a TDO5-18G on a RB25 with I believe decent results. Potentially good units at an affordable price, you can lean on them a lot harder than an aging OEM Hitachi unit off an RB25.

Only issue is to make sure you have proper clearance between tyre and guard, and wishbone. That includes when the thing is on lock. They are a front-heavy car and ultimately will benefit from a bit more rubber on the road. For 100 percent road use you may not notice a huge difference though.

Rather than focus too hard on the static rear toe figure, can you enlighten us what sort of toe change it goes through from full bump to full droop? Getting on top of that is what would make the conversion worthwhile IMO.

The more I look, it seems very common to have boost leaks that we don't know about. Must be some good merit in pressurising the inlet to check for leaks. The only way I could see to check for that one on the inlet manifold would be to lift the cams out, and pressurise right up to the inlet valve seats. What sort of boost are you running to achieve that output? Looks fairly linear and spread over a wide range too.

I'd consult with Stao about his recommendations for turbo. The 3 litre will require a fair bit more turbine capacity otherwise it will choke. You've got to let those gases out and get the engine breathing especially if you plan on pushing 20psi boost into it. Decent quality cast pistons won't cost much and will be more than adequate for street use. Get the block bored .020" over and be happy that you aren't using old slugs that are fatigued. If you are 100% committed to E85 then you could probably use a thin head gasket to bump CR up a touch. Bob's suggestion is good; you could physically measure the chamber volume and cylinder volume at BDC. Then you work out what HG you want. 9.5:1 is right up there but shouldn't be a problem with E85 if it's tuned right.

Charles have you seen or used the Aldred Engineering kit? I like the idea of retaining stock calipers and increasing the rotor diameter. Very simple ad potentially effective provided it fits square and no fouling between rotor and caliper.. I recall seeing comments about a similar set of adaptors from GKTech, and people having difficulties. (obvious responses about getting what you pay for)

Coffee is a diuretic, will assist dehydration. Have one by all means but don't go nuts on the stuff. I always take a slab of water bottles and sip regularly on those. Good to hear the tablets work well.

James I reckon the big trick is to install adjustable upper links in that rear end. That will allow you to get the camber setting you want, and most importantly, to dial out bump steer from big toe changes as it moves through its travel. Dynamic change is what can make them a handful, as you'd know with the old semi trailing arms. I'd imagine yours will not be using a whole heap of travel so it's going to be easier to dial things in. It should be possible to get minimal toe change if you're using 50mm of bump and similar for droop. Static settings, I'd think the 1 - 1.5 neg camber and 1 - 2mm toe in per side. Run it and go from there.

Just dropping the new lifters into an oil bath probably wouldn't have done much. Making sure they were collapsed before installation would be the way to approach things. Use soft jaws in a vice, and maybe a short bolt to get the load where you want it. Could be that your oil spec is hindering efforts to have them self bleed. And yes I read the comment that they are bled, but if they're tapping, they're not bled. HLA are zero clearance.

I'm wondering at which point it starts oversteering, high speed sweeping bends, slow speed corners off exit etc. What throttle is being used prior to oversteer, and how it's responding to inputs. There's got to be a few pearls of setup wisdom from your mate's race car as well as the parts... That 86 looked like a lot of fun even in cold wet conditions. But I maintain it needed 100mm higher ride height and some gravel rally tyres. It would be at home in the forest.

Valid points made Adrian. It's easy to put together a shopping list of parts, but then having the supporting systems working to optimum is so very important. Injectors that have the best spray patterns, supplied by a healthy pump and electricals, and controlled by an ECU with high spec operating system is all part of having an end result that matches expectations. It's easy also to miss having good healthy coils that belt out a reliable strong spark, and a CAS that is functioning properly. There have been quite a few queries and threads over the past 12 months where people have identified timing scatter with CAS being the culprit. Not saying people need to be spending up on CDI and crank triggers, but there are limitations to the OEM bits that are heading towards 15-20 years old. Don't really like those return flow cooler pipe setups.