Dale FZ1

Do they have a complete dump so you can bolt it up and concentrate on fabbing up the inlet side?

Andy did you go with an internal gated housing? Interested to hear how this thing performs and if boost control is ok. I don't rate the hoses and fittings that come with the Kando gear, very little that is useable and anywhere near fits.

If it's not matched to your satisfaction just use a die grinder and remove the offending edges so that it does match. Probably 15 minutes work - it's not that hard.

Different individual preferences abound, but I reckon any of the awd platforms - thinking Evo, STi, and GTR - don't really shine unless/until on low traction surfaces, running high output engines, or in a competition environment where there are slow speed corners. The weight penalty paid for the extra mechanical bits is not insignificant either. But in the hands of a driver who understands how to handle them, they are so much faster it is ridiculous. Adrian when it's said and done, once you finally get that GT3076 fitted to your 25DET you will kick yourself for holding out so long. And if/when you get a run in something with a 30DET you will again kick yourself. But the character of extra cubes and a lower rev ceiling may not suit everyone. Group B obviously the fatal crash of Toivonen and Cresta was terrible but I think the real issue was around the .and style of events and stages, and engineering focus on light weight prototypes plus pure speed rather than including inherent crashworthiness. Remember those blokes were incinerated upside down at the bottom of a steep gully. The cars took a certain, and very different approach to drive fast - but they are not in the same street as current WRC machines. Engineering has stepped well ahead in 27 years. The best driver ends up driving the best machine, and those with funding can get a run as with other categories ie F1. Returning on thread, I reckon stock final gearing for a modified RB26 powertrain would benefit from going to a lower (ie numerically higher number) ratio if it's not hitting full boost until 5000 and able to rev to 8500.

That SLSS2 setup looks to deliver far more linear than the ATR43SS2. Boost plots are way different which would account for the mid range torque whack the ATR43SS2 provides. Maybe the Brae manifold flows much nicer up high because it's like the thing isn't being strangled? Keeps making torque past 6000rpm. How do they compare for real world driving and response?

Anchorlox look promising, price is high. GCG offer the same gear for more acceptable coin. The nuts and Belleville washers available from Ralliart for the Evo are top notch but also priced accordingly.

Good explanation Stao, thanks. Higher pressures result in higher axial loads, putting pressure/wear on the collar. I understand why you wouldn't want to post up pics of your gear, although if/when you get another Kando in for repairs perhaps you might consider putting up pics of the failure areas ?

Stao have you seen any similar issues with the TDO6H spec turbine? Perhaps you might upload a comparison pic of your thrust bearing setup vs the stock Kando, help people understand the differences.

Shape of the curves looks pretty good, nice and linear. How does it drive? And are you expecting something different + prepared to spend time/money to achieve that?

I'd think of it as very much in the league of a lower end high flow unit. And yes the price is a draw card. If you can modify fuelling and ignition with the SAFC then that should do the job nicely.

More the fact that the airflow characteristics - mass throughput - will likely be very different to what the OEM turbo does. So fuelling and ignition changes are needed to suit. The age old problem with the OEM ecu of hitting rich/retard will also raise its head. Simply adding a FMIC, free flowing pod inlet, and 3 inch exhaust can be enough to give problems in that area. Nistune could be your answer. TD05 18G could be a reasonably good match but the HG options seem to have been proven a very good match. No reason to ignore the Kando unit though.

What area/s are you considering to be the problem Michael?

If the bottom timing marker is showing TDC but the pistons are either side of TDC, there are problems that need rectifying. Likewise if there is a misalignment error between cam timing marks, you won't see the valve at full lift when it is supposed to be. A suggestion early in this thread was to bypass the I/C and run something simple outside the car to trial. That 180 degree bend for return flow piping can't be good, although it's hard to see that being the cause of all problems. Double or triple checking the timing setup costs only time, changing the I/C and piping costs parts and time.

Come on Stao, are you teasing or suggesting an issue with that turbo setup?

So an improvement of 30hp in the top end but a bit of mid range loss? Can you get an overlay of the torque curves posted up please.

I'm with you on that Ben. 1. Physical check of the ignition timing, during the run. And have a spare CAS handy to try as a replacement anyway. 2. Physical check of cam timing, using degree wheel. If the head has been skimmed or block decked, I would not accept that lining up the timing marks would suffice. Previous comments indicate that the cam timing was checked properly.

What concerns with the injectors? Running out of duty cycle? Provided AFR are stable the injectors should have no bearing on timing figure. 10 degrees does seem way under what could be expected, especially on E85. I misinterpreted Tony's comments and thought it was not knocking. Given the power figure and rpm mentioned, what amount of boost is being pumped in? That is a LOT of power for a RB25 at 4500rpm.

Tony can you tell us just how much timing it is taking at full load? 12 degrees, 18, or 8? What does your tuner feel it should be taking? If it's making 310rwkW from a 2.5 litre engine by 4500rpm on pump 98, that is a significant amount of grunt. No indicator that the power is falling over, simply that the tuner is backing out of the runs. You have indicated that the engine is quiet, so no knock through the headphones? Throw a bit more info out there.

The 1.5/1.25 thread pitch studs are always a better bet IMO. Far better pull-down on both manifold and turbine. Not always easy to source though.

Harris can you elaborate on your setup? Presuming a Kinugawa turbo of some description. Did either one present with boost control issues? Would you care to post any dyno overlays of the Hybrid vs Brae if available? Don't really want to deviate off topic but it might be worthwhile giving your feedback/experiences to Brae

So the goal is improved low/mid range torque, running a quiet (restrictive) exhaust with cat?

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If the United 100 octane E10 is readily available and convenient, perhaps you've hit the jackpot. Get onto it. After the trials are all done you'd do well to install a flex fuel sensor and have the ECU automatically interpolate. Sounds too easy if you then wanted to have a night at the drags or a track day - simple just run your tank down and top up with E70/85 before attending. Then stick with the United E10 for longer fuel range between fills when commuting. You really should get a pyrometer installed to gauge how hot these lean mixtures are getting.

Different blends is interesting but only if you can achieve it quickly and easily without moving from bowser to bowser - convenience with a daily driver is quite important IMO. Estimating how much is in the tank, then dropping in X litres of petrol and then adding Y litres of E70 to your desired final ratio all spells lost time and perhaps some frustration to other people in the queues when you're heading to/from work. To each their own. In some respects I can see the value of fuel companies offering E85 as the "high performance" blend, and say E35 as a "premium eco-blend" much as they do with the 91/95/98 petrol brews. Market acceptance and supply infrastructure are probably two hurdles in the whole situation. IAT sensor in that crossover pipe should be no problem provided its installed with good penetration into the airstream. If there is heat soak into the pipe affecting inlet charge temps, the ECU needs to know about it. Spend a few days swapping over the GTRS for the GT3076 and see what happens with the light load fuel consumption.