Dale FZ1

Well that's good news. I've got one on order, got some feedback within 24hrs to indicate they were waiting on delivery of some rotating assembly components. Expected to build the unit and ship within 6 calendar days of the order being placed, which is still acceptable to me. Prompt communication is the key to good service. Interested to handle, fit, and try the product after the positive comments by Trent on these things.

Post up some info regarding the turbo spec and engine mods. Makes a big difference how a "typical" map should look

I have to say there is only one thing that beats hearing the sound of a BDA blasting by. That is to do an event in a BDA . The tingles/vibrations and rate of rise/fall in rpm are difficult to convey in words - the sensations have to be felt. What are the stages like? Open and fast shire roads?

It won't fit because the housing has been profiled (machined) to suit a different turbine rotor. Get it to a reputable turbocharger builder/rebuilder and see if they can measure up and make it fit.

Formatting error, will repost

Ok so what were the target numbers to chase? Appears that as a blended fuel the calorific content is bumped up a fair whack from straight alcohol. 30% differential at max power should see an 044 pump cope with 300-330rwkW worth of fuel delivery.

Daniel by way of comparison between a pump 98 tune vs E85, what is a typical full-load target AFR? And what is a typical cruise/low load target AFR? Also interested to get a handle on fuel system delivery requirements for sizing. ie. for a given power target what is the rule of thumb for injector sizing + pump(s) vs running on pump 98? Rough sizing requirements on methanol were to expect double the fuel usage over avgas. The calorific content per unit of mass in those fuels is a factor of two so easy enough to understand. I would imagine the maths for ethanol would be roughly similar.

If you use a GTR spec diff centre then you'll want a complete GTR rear assembly. Half shafts and bearing hubs are the issue with making it work in a ECR chassis. It's a bit clearer when you look at a Cusco/Kaaz fitment list because those 6 bolt output flanges signify the beefier shaft size and splines of the GTR. Adrian playing with these things is much like the older Datsun stuff. You can mix and match. My diff runs the original ECR housing, a R32 GTS4 crownwheel and pinion, and the swanky finned alloy rear cover plate. Careful measurement of the housings showed identical internal clearances so the shims were dropped in as a matched set for correct preload. Worked a treat. R33 2wd used 3 channel ABS with slightly longer snout on the housing, and it appears that anything 4wd including the R32 GTS4 ran 4 channel. And the S13, Cefiro, and Laurel gear appear to have different mounts so those housings won't work on your R33. It can involve a bit of playing around to get what you want but no real problem once you know what bits fitted to what model. Same as Datsun.

Torsen design. Same as you get from Quaife. Often found installed in BDA Escort rally cars. Quite smooth in operation ie. no clunking. Not sure how they perform in a high torque environment eg behind a 30DET, or XR6T. JZA80 Supra uses a Torsen centre and there are reports of those losing effective LSD action behind high output 2JZ engines. Available from Quaife to suit a lot of FWD transaxle/diffs. Reputedly do best on tarmac or smooth gravel (eg rally) where the wheels are on the ground most of the time. Probably worth a closer look for those who require OEM levels of NVH but something better than the viscous centre. Are they available to suit the R200 diff?

Justin you and I are on the same wavelength here. Available torque + engine response at ground speeds from 60-190 is really outstanding. Cubes make the difference but the 4.3 gearing shows it to best effect. Installing a proper diff centre and doing away with the viscous unit was probably the best change I've made of all the mods. Adrian if you run the numbers of gear ratio x diff ratio you may find that a 3.7 would tend to make 5th largely redundant except as a cruise/economy gear. Main difference in the two approaches would be which gears are used more/most frequently for a given ground/road speed range. So it's generally a matter of preference/priority. Different box ratios appear attractive, but consider the available usable torque range from a 30DET pushing between 270-330rwkW, and close ratio sets conflict with the purpose of the engine build. I'd actually think the short stroke 25DET would benefit much more than its big brother from a closer ratio set. In either case though it is fairly cost prohibitive when you see what out-of-the-box performance is available from an Evo, without dicking around with ratio changes... For me, the 4.375 offers almost instantaneous response in 3rd gear for slower corners on track (doesn't have to drop into 2nd in those tighter corners), and a straight shift into 4th on the shorter straights without running out of rpm. So it tends to use only two gears, and changes don't go across the gate (less chance of a miss-shift). On longer tracks 5th gear is very usable but only required a couple of times. The 4.11 ratio seemed to have it slightly off-boil in 3rd. But the car didn't really show a lack of speed or general response - it was a change made to suit my preferences. For you, perhaps the taller diff ratio might make a lot of sense and 1st/2nd very usable in traffic. Could be that a 3.7 diff with a 0.85 5th ratio change in the box would work well. Different application, different requirement or preference. Hope that clarifies my general thinking.

I like the look of those options there. Bob was it difficult to source?

Makes me wonder why anyone would bother to slip in a RB30 if you then counteract the improvement by reducing the torque multiplication at the wheels by using a taller diff. It might make for a more relaxed "feel", but the car will accelerate less quickly in any gear. Adrian the character of the car is transformed by use of the longer stroke bottom end. Stay with the stock 4.11. I've gone the other way and use a 4.375 ratio. Means first gear is basically for parking or creeping in traffic or pits. Track acceleration from about 60-190km/h in 3rd and 4th is really solid, and the car is geared to pull 250km/h in 5th ie. has no lack of top end speed. Depends on use of the car of course, but the 4.11 gearing still suits the car very well.

Could be AASA

The dip seems to correlate directly with the boost curve in that rpm range. Overall it seems pretty good. How does the thing drive?

Never a happy ending, Fair amount of panel work required there. Always good when a cage does its job though. A Subaru went lid-down at a club rally this weekend at Hirstglen too. Have you got any in-car?

You do realise these are used as tensioners for stainless steel balustrading wires? Just with different ends in that application. Reputable suppliers in your local area should do them at a much tidier price, and include the bracketed ends as pictured. Even Bunnings would be worth a look.

Rain = great performance leveller. Looked like a lot of fun.

I experienced Mafia's 0.63 + WMI setup. Stronger than mine with 0.87 on pump 98 from 3-4000, but also you could feel the torque rolling off above 6200-ish where mine with the larger housing kept pulling to 7200. Honestly IMO this result with a 0.8 housing on GT30xx at 19psi is entirely respectable and typical of what power figure to expect. +10kW would be nice but it's within range. The whole GT/GTX thing isn't worth wasting time on. Flow maps shows that the GTX only has a flow advantage at higher PR (boost). For a more "aggressive" delivery simply lift the head and turbo setup, and install on a RB30 bottom end. Much more impressive day-to-day. Alternatively, check the existing setup over for integrity, and wind boost up to 22-24psi with the controller setup for the most aggressive rate of boost build that you can. If it fries tyres now, then your local fitters will be seeing you on a monthly basis after that. Can I suggest forget chasing more power, more power, and target more traction/drive with what you have?

Stay with them.

Cheap and nasty but can work ok esp if you only run it occasionally. Much better option, this is the proper way IMO but can involve a bit of stuffing around to plumb and mount one.

Diff 1.5 or 2 way. Use crown wheel & pinion gearing suited to the particular engine you're going to run Tyres Radiator + air guides Brake pads/fluid/lines + overhaul calipers Clutch + braided line. Lightweight flywheel. Adjustable suspension links front + rear Coilovers front + rear Pay to have someone setup your suspension properly if you don't know how / want to get running sooner ROPS Seat + harness In-car camera for use as a review/training aid Spend time running it like that and learn to drive with stock power level for a season or two. Add up the costs above, IMO those are the things required for reliable, safe track running. If this is your first track car, you do not want/need 300rwkw. Plenty of fun to be had <150rwkw

Double check your alignment, front and rear. Detroits have particular drive characteristics. That would be a factor - do you know how they actually work, and what to expect from one as you power on and then modulate the power? Also how much steering angle is available in a MR30 front end?

Go with an ECU that's reasonably current spec, and something that your tuner is happy to work with. Use the RB26 loom if possible, and use an ECU that's a plug-in. Link/Vipec, or Haltech are good options.

Matter of interest, what timing would it take?

^+++ 100% agreed. Some setups will drive like a jet at 100% throttle, but lack the type of response others can deliver. Search for a couple of comments by Wolverine regarding a change from GT-RS to a GT2835. Same compressor, different turbine spec, not much different power numbers. WAY different delivery. Application the car is being used for counts a lot in my books before you'd settle for something in particular. GT3076IW hanging off an RB25 will do sterling service between 370-400rwhp on pump 98. But there are other setups that might top out around 370hp but feel more lively/satisfying if you're running mainly lighter throttle settings and rpm under 4500.