Dale FZ1

Yes, it was Urtwhistle, we have had a bit of back/forth in this thread, continuing from pics he posted up in another thread showing a high-mount dummied up on his 30DET in a R34. Scott I would think the 11 blader likely to be less restrictive at higher flow rates, and therefore probably less responsive if it was mated to the 25G compressor.

Any word from people running V710 on Skylines?

Lots of variety in that stage - looked good. How good would it be the S13 sounded like that BDA?

Yes, now I see the difference. Yours should have the H spec 12 bladed inconel rotor, while there is also a same size/different design H4 spec 11 bladed rotor used with the 84mm compressor. The TD06H 25G 12cm should match pretty well with a 30DET. I wonder if the billet compressor will offer any advantage in response/efficiency under 20psi.

This is listed as a TDO6H 25G. I know it's been covered previously, just confirming the detail - this unit runs exactly the same impellers as SimonR32 does with his T67 25G, but with a smaller diameter shaft? And then obviously you've ordered the billet compressor option?

Can you post up a link for sourcing this particular unit? Be interested to know if there is a V band outlet option on that turbine housing. First time I've seen a 12cm option - the focus has been on 8 and 10.

Thanks.

I'm not yet ready to admit I need glasses to read You've certainly got a decent sized turbine rotor, and the OP6 housing would be an easy enough swap-in proposition once machined to suit. Relatively straightforward, and worth doing before feeling inclined to re-engineer the complete turbocharger or make gear ratio changes. It could still be the case that the T03 based rotor is not the most efficient of its type, and I would keep an open mind about what size/spec rotors are bing used in those TDO6 units. Blade count and shape can make a massive difference to airflow/restriction, and response. I have found that Kando thread very useful in understanding what approach MHI have used.

i just saw some of your in-car. Better understand what you're doing with it now Go the E85, pretty strong result there! Do you know what spec/size turbine rotor it has? Presumably you have a few post-event notes and maybe some datalogs that you can review. Agree 100% that there is the potential for a slower point-to-point car by simply chasing more power (ie a higher power number). That's what I was indicating with the comments about raising rpm thresholds - effectively you can end up simply making the same torque but at higher rpm, and be caught out with less drive off the corners simply to have an engine that can hold another 500-1000rpm before it runs out of puff. As it is, what rpm band are you spinning in during the corner and on exits? How does that sit with the effective torque range of the engine? Does the budget and rules allow you to play with gear or diff ratios? I do think it's possible to achieve different results with a simple housing change, but maybe the best (ie fastest point to point tarmac car) results would require either complete change of the turbo's rotating bits + a housing change, and/or some different ratios to suit your road-speed range.

That's similar to my setup, although I'd call the approach mild. Removal of sharp edges, smooth out transitions, etc. Cast manifold has lots of areas for small improvements around each runner, but the collector area is all about achieving tight packaging. The telltale blue indicates it is clearly the hottest and most stressed part of the manifold, so while there is scope for good improvement in the collector, I stayed reasonably conservative with the amount of metal removed so it won't fatigue and crack. I'm happy with the overall result

Definitely, it helps. Thanks. I think you'll need a build thread to give detail on the engine spec, and how the TDO6/7 fits and matches the engine. I'd imagine that the turbine housing was larger than 10cm. What size wastegate takeoff did you spec on the manifold? I recall that Russman had to go with a 50mm tube and big gate to work with the 1.06 housing on the GTX3076.

I'd have a good read of the detail in the Kando turbo thread, and pay attention to the comments from Roy as to what has worked for him, and what rpm range it works on his RB20. Have a think about if that's the general result you're chasing, and see if those impeller sizes are workable within the Nissan housings. Finally I would consult with Hypergear on their product lines to see what they offer. I'd think you'll be surprised what can be done for a reasonably modest outlay, and conform with your rules. The larger OP6 turbine should/would lift the effective rpm ceiling of your torque (ie lift the power), and also the rpm where it starts to make good torque. Presumably if you have a 400hp rated turbo then there should be the ability to run 280-320rwhp, so I agree with Ash - what does it actually produce, and what sort of different characteristic are you chasing?

While you're playing with a 30DET, do you have an XR6T spec GT3582 to do a mock-up and establish whether one of those would give clearance problems?

None of them are marked with A/R sizes. You would have to cut them up to establish the actual A/R if you needed it. Factory numbers cast into them do help to identify the engines they mate to. Some time back I closely inspected housings. Their respective R sizes are all good enough as the same, but there is variation in the A (cross sectional area of the gas passage) which is immediately obvious. RB20 runs unique sized comp housing (to the RB20/25 series) and it is the smallest in the family. It would be the least attractive to high flowing. RB25/Neo both run the same sized larger comp housing. RB20/25 both run the same sized smaller turbine Neo runs the largest turbine, usually referred to as the OP6 (factory number cast into it), and also a shared fitment with the single turbo VG30DET engine. I ran a GT2871 cartridge into stock RB25 housings, quite a successful unit for road use. For race/tarmac rally I'd suggest the Neo housings, and consult with Hypergear as to the best impeller combination. Are you required to run an inlet restrictor?

Border Ranges is on my "to do" list, always gets a good wrap from Qld competitors. Rally Q is coming up fast too Warps, are you in? Allcomers entry is far from cheap though...

Scott I don't think it matters quite so much whether you or Mick can (even if he wants want to) achieve 350kw. Application (road, drag, circuit) counts for a hell of a lot, as does whether it has suitable delivery to put it to the ground. A larger 1.06 housing and/or fabricated manifold and/or attention to reducing restrictions may yield a slightly different result, but I believe Wolverine in his assessment of the importance of E85 in that setup. I just don't think that GTX3071 has any more to give. I think any changes would alter the character and delivery, but not the number (if that is what is being chased). I do consider the 71 vs 76 exducer is an important variable when talking about response. Haven't yet seen any of the GTX compressor maps, but going by the established characteristics of the GT series, the 71 will have to spin faster to do its thing. Wolverine's comparisons on the pump 98 tends to bear that out. Having said all that, I'd like to see Mick's setup with the 1.06 housing. Its midrange oomph is ridiculously good (and fun) to the point you'd wonder how/where/why there would be a need to make it any different other than to put it to the ground more effectively. Then the thought of using a different spec turbo comes up. I'd think the GTX3576 offers a lot of scope for the person who wants more than a GT3076 or GTX3071 can offer.

Install a conversion kit to solid lifters.

The stock type coil over plug design doesn't allow for a super strong spark. Good, but nothing special. That MSD setup should make a difference in a competition application. Nice work.

Double post

PM sent.

First step, consider changing the spec of your oil. Are you using a full synthetic? Also what weight? If there was an engine build being planned, you'd have to say that checking the size of the oil returns and enlarging them would be a good step. Otherwise, look at mods to the cam covers. Remove the baffle plates, add more screens under them, and then reinstall the plates. Look to knock down the heavy oil vapours before the air passes out into the catch can. If you're a dedicated track runner, vent the catch can to atmo with two 1 - 1.25" breathers. And if possible delete the PCV, and use that takeoff plus the other two breathers so you have a total of 3 large-ish diameter feeds to your catch can. The idea here is to drop the velocity of the air passing out of your engine and venting to atmo. Expect a few oily smells. I know there are different views on the drain-back to sump idea, but it can work. Install a PCV in that line to stop the sump pressurising the catch can, but allows the drain to function when crankcase pressure drops. Whatever you do, work on improving it. Those CA sumps don't hold a lot of oil and you don't want to pump it dry.

Full agreement here. There is often a big lack of understanding of what it takes to get accustomed to track driving, setting up the car for that duty, and then actually getting a turn of speed with reliability. In short, chassis setup is the key. Properly setup suspension is not easy to achieve unless either you know what you're doing, or are prepared o pay for someone to do it - on top of the actual hardware required. Won't matter much whatever power the thing makes if it won't put it to the ground, or won't turn. Weight is not your friend. Even 50kg reduction helps immensely, and reduces the amount of power you need to target from the engine as motive force. Also reduces the load on the tyres and helps braking and change of direction. 250rwkW is no weakling, and at that point you REALLY need to understand what it takes to make it reliably. Effective cooling - engine coolant, oil, and even power steering and brakes can take time and effort and $$ to get right. The debate over GT or GTX series won't matter too much, you have a choice of 3 readily available units that will cover your immediate needs, and future plans for getting more straight line speed. Give more serious consideration to a fabricated manifold and EW setup, partly for effective boost control but maybe more importantly to give easiest access to the hardware for checking over everything and the inevitable maintenance you need between events. Listen to Ash's comments, he is on the mark.

Is the radiator fan operating correctly? Assuming the OEM fan and shrouds are all in place. Do you have evidence of coolant in the engine oil, or oil in the coolant?

It was worth having a close look at his car just trying to understand why the difference. Bonnet venting looks like the way forward. Mitsubishi do it for good reason with the Evo, as rally-spec cars generate enormous heat via anti-lag. If they don't get good air extraction from the engine bay then performance suffers and reliability goes out the window. Under-tray design is being checked/reviewed too, and I have a couple of weeks to implement what I want. Simple to install, functional, and scope for some easy changes at an event.

Ran the car over the weekend. Full 4 sided guide/seal between intercooler and radiator resulted in the engine temps still running hot. But took longer to get hot than before any cooling changes were implemented. Things were pointed in the generally right direction. Notably many competitors were experiencing cooling problems during practice, ambients up around 34C My top plate guide was made in two parts, so I removed the one that sealed up against the radiator and ran the event that way. Vast improvement, with no indication when driving that temps had climbed high enough to hit my ECU failsafes. A mate watching did suggest that some visual/audible signs were there that it was maybe pulling a couple of degrees of ignition out, so there's still things to look at. Bottom line: the full 4 sides seal was not a good thing on my car. The other stuff had a positive impact. Another competitor running very similar spec R33 had no cooling dramas (apparently). And he was running consistently better times than me. No guides installed, OEM radiator, OEM fan, same intercooler, replacement front bar with big openings, and a vented bonnet.