Dale FZ1

Four events for 2011, and not a gravel rally in sight Too many competing interests including work demands. Might be a bit easier for 2012 but funds dictate it will probably be a similar number this year.

That's an easy way for anyone to come and have a try at running on the track. Fortunately I have those safety things covered.

Sounds great. Any special requirements eg. CAMS license, CTP extension?

25th of Feb, I'd like this to be my first event for the year. Any special requirements for vehicle prep or eligibility?

Queensland Cement, and harden up... Sadly it's just a feature that goes with that layout. Steep seat-back, flat base, and knees up due to the flat floor. Brand doesn't matter, any dual cab has those issues. In truth it's still a damn good base, and the only thing I could see giving a big improvement in comfort would be a dual cab VW Transporter (you see tradies running around in them, much bigger). Price in another league however.

Good choice. Back seat comfort is always an issue if you're taking a crew but at a price-point they're a good thing with most of the boxes ticked. Auto or manual box?

Pre-compressor induction of the water spray is a different sort of science. And wait for the comments about wearing out impellers etc. It is apparent that you have to do it right, but it will work. Sizing your nozzle correctly should yield a water:fuel ratio of somewhere around 15-20% Some setups work better than others, and there are a couple of forums about dedicated to WI. Great pictures, and more than a few variations that will give you an idea of what you want.

Could be problematic depending on what your filter setup is. 3 inch tube should be heaps

Isn't that a fairly small setup? Found a Kinugawa chart indicating they are good for ~250 crank kW at max.

Contact me via PM, come and get them before I send them to the tip 7 days from now. Location Sunshine Coast

Notes on setup are a little disjointed. Gearbox - auto or manual? Boost control - straight feed to actuator now? Previously? And what difference observed? Actuator - what pressure is it rated at? Is it set up ok? What pressure does the valve crack off its seat? Boost delivery - do you have a dyno sheet with boost overlay? Saying it's 500rpm more laggy than other similar setups doesn't give a great insight into things, graph tells a whole lot more. Dyno sheet - please upload one

The pulley, or the way the high pressure line runs forward? I re-jigged that hard line and everything worked out nicely. The front most section of the harmonic balancer is what drives the power steering, so they are in the same plane. If one is a cleanance problem, then so is the other. Either way, sounds like you're on the right track. Modify the shroud, wire up the fans and alter the power steering line; away you go. I can't say at this stage whether running thermos is warranted, or even better than the OE mechanical fan. It certainly works, but the sheer electrical drain means the alternator works harder so you still get parasitic losses to counteract much of the gain through deleting the mechanical fan. No doubt there are plenty of opinions out there.

RB heads fit under this umbrella for most people's needs. Rules probably change a fair bit if you're wanting to exceed 500rwhp / 375rwkW. All the little bits like port matching are great little improvers of flow efficiency on both sides, likewise those bumps in the exhaust ports. The inlet ports are quite large, and given you're talking forced induction there is probably not that much gain from spending wads of time and $$ in that area. Those exhaust ports look to be where the better results are had IMO.

The Falcon fan/shroud assembly needs to be trimmed by about 25mm, and some simple angle brackets made to mount it to the radiator. Not an exceedingly hard job for any competent sheet metal fabricator. You'll end up with about 10-15mm clearance between the fan motor and harmonic balancer, enough to get it all fitted in there nicely.

+1. The "37" refers to the GT37 series impeller, been rehashed and explained numerous times in various threads. Garrett make them, Garrett name them, and HKS stayed with the naming convention when being supplied those units. I wouldn't expect to see any HKS naming on something Kando supply.

Multiplication's the name of the game.

^ +1. I experienced a bit of power steering belt walk at higher rpm. Thought I had more than enough tension, but turned out that I did not. Also try keeping it from smacking on the limiter and see if the problem goes away.

Consider the rate of throttle change as you go WOT - might be the accel enrich values giving it a load of fuel that can't burn and causes momentary misfire. Also attention to the simple things - new engine, new spark plugs and suitably gapped. Clean coil packs that are known good units. Something I'd consider fairly important - do you know what the CR is? Neo heads are reputedly running smaller chambers, so the combination of head, pistons (what spec?), and decked block may have implications for what you should target with this engine. Absolute number one job to start with is make sure your base timing is correct before you attempt to tune the thing. I'd consider shrinking the whole ignition map by 2-3 degrees while you play with fuelling. Especially if you aren't sure where the engine sits with CR. The cruise area of a map is actually quite small, and really only needs target AFR of 14.9-15.0 It looks way too lean in way too many cells for my liking. In the 2000rpm range it's almost ridiculously lean. Looks like you should be progressively putting a good deal more fuel into the sections as it's coming into boost. At load point 8 I'd be targeting 13.2 - 13.5 AFR, and at point 10 more like 12.8-13.0. Then quickly down into 12.2 by point 15, and 11.8-12.0 anywhere below that. Sit down and have a good look at your target AFR in the various load and engine speed ranges. Do you have access to the fuel map correction spreadsheet/calculator? Too little fuel will cause as many issues as too much, but just different ones. Don't be afraid to have a go, but you may need to get a better handle on what is required.

Tomei Procams are not designed/built as a VCT setup. In that case, no worries about oil feed for that. They are a reasonably large sized spec, and your cylinder head guy should do all the setup to ensure proper clearance between head casting and cam lobes once everything is installed. Solid lifter upgrade from the hydraulics would be advisable. Also valve spring upgrade to cope with the lift and not strike coil bind issues is a big one. You WILL need vernier cam gears to optimise cam timing. There is value in drilling out the oil returns, installing oil feed restrictors, and doing something with the oil pump. Running a T04Z there is the potential to make some pretty serious hp. Hope the build is budgeted to deal with a pretty serious upgrade to the reciprocating and rotating bits down low, balancing components etc and allow it to rev nicely. Actually, when you look over the 30DET build guide, and a few threads in this section, I would think it's highly advisable to check approaches and results from others, and your own build plan and mechanical specs will become much clearer. GL and update as you go along.

Second request please.

Has the size/length of the inlet trumpets and header pipes been determined by any calculations or simulator? Those trumpets definitely look the gear.

And things get more interesting. Do you have the exact same turbo, just with a larger turbine housing? Engine spec? These two are going to be worth watching.

Twin thermo setup from BA Falcon can be made to fit relatively easy. Full shroud included in the assembly. Readily available and priced very good. Stand-alone controllers are available, or do it via your ECU depending on what you are running. Are you having problems keeping it cool? At all times, or not? What spec/condition is your thermostat?

How well does this baby fit up in the engine bay for clearances? I seem to recall issues with engine mounts for some owners previously.

Well done Andrew. This is going to be very interesting to see what it produces, and more importantly - how it delivers. Presumably running the cast HKS manifold, what size gate are you going to use?