Dale FZ1

I'd say that your particular setup is a different combination to others, so it may prove that the only test is to plump for an hour or two of dyno time to prove it. Mind you, it is pretty simple to at least road test the difference between current, and then advance the inlet a couple of degrees. It will probably be noticeable, as I found while trialing my own setup. I'd tend to agree that a cleanup of the ports will help, but again cost is the factor. A bit hard to justify the cost for something that may give you 10hp - chasing diminishing returns. Different if the engine is apart and you've got the time and tools. Seems that the trapping efficiency in the chambers is different with this particular inlet/exhaust/turbine combination and it just needs time and a capped amount of $$ spent establishing what it likes for cam timing. Where exactly was the ignition timing wound back, and why? Did the thing knock? A couple of degrees taken out will easily cost you the loss shown on overlay. Side issue; I much prefer to look at the torque curves, makes much more sense and in my view magnifies the differences between runs.

Got any vision you can upload to show why it's a good thing please?

So is it actually a simple process? ie able to be done by the average bear And I take it that Dashmate is basically an "enabler" that lets you combine the two lots of data If so, how/where do you get the input of rpm/throttle/brake? Or do you just run with a GPS data feed which will presumably show speed and G? It would be a good thing with a breadcrumbs style overlay showing either track position, or location through a special stage. GPS feed should allow that to happen too?

So what are your cams degreed at currently? ie. does it have adjustable gears Also did you expect a performance gain in some way, or accept it as a cosmetic tart up or a means of easier access to injectors, shorter pipework etc? That aside, I wouldn't think you'd necessarily end up with lower outputs.

100% confirmed. If you haven't got one, you have to make one. Don't expect a helpful response from the HKS dealer.

I agree with Wolverine's observation, very similar sort of result vs the GT-RS. I went back and checked it against my old GT2871 48T high flow as well, and saw similar characteristics on the graph. That old setup only lagged behind the std setup to 2500rpm and made 225kW on 12psi. If this ATR43 SS1 offers similar transient throttle response characteristics, and this result at full load it's got to be the sort of setup a smart owner will choose. I like the look of it. It does appear that pressure drop across the intercooler is costing some top end, but what sort of boost control is employed? An EBC may help to offset what's going on with the cooler, although turbine flow may also be part of the equation. What's the vibe from your tuner and Stao on these fronts? To be really honest it doesn't look to be want a higher peak power figure for other than bench racing. If it was able to hold peak torque from current 4700 through to 5700ish, it would have a really fat top end so you don't need to rev it hard. That would be good. It's a street car, but also interested to know if it runs a quiet (legal)exhaust spec.

That's pretty much what I did. 3.5 inch, similar style to HKS design. HPC coated works fine. Fiddly job but as stated a competent fabricator can do the same.

It seems that fairly stock-type (head porting + cams + manifolds) 30DET builds can go this way too. Pretty streetable and a step forward from the short stroke bottom end, but not a particularly wide useable rpm range where it makes best torque. The better builds of those using a 25DET head seem to go with decent fabricated exhaust manifolds and open out those exhaust port restrictions. Mine is a mild build with OEM cast manifold but holds peak torque from 3400-7000 with Tighe cams 8.9mm lift and 265 duration. Might not be best for everyone's needs but it suits mine.

I think it might depend on what batch of impellers they had available. The one I saw had 6 blades. Genuine pump from Nissan spares had 8, same as the original pump on my RB25, and the failed aftermarket pump. The general finished quality of casting etc on the genuine gear looks higher too; that's what I went with, not going to have another event spoiled if it was a case of inferior quality. Front of the engine is reassembled, waiting for spare time to install the radiator and add water this week.

So generally you'd be looking at a nose-high attitude similar to a 2wd gravel rally car?

No, belt tension checked prior to the event and within spec.

The failed pump sitting in front of me has an 8 bladed impeller. A GMB branded (Made in Japan - reputedly good quality) pump Part # WP898 from Repco has a 6 bladed impeller but looks otherwise similar. The shape of the backing area is smoother, but not flush-fitting as the N1 design appears to be from pics I have seen. Less blades should be more efficient at higher pump speeds, and maybe not quite as good at lower speeds, same principle as per turbocharger impellers. Pics of the N1 looks like it is a better piece of kit altogether but I think its pointless spending the extra if the majority are running stock-type pumps without problems. So what does a stock RB26 water pump's internals look like?

I've just experienced a water pump failure on a track day. Stock-type aftermarket RB30 pump, total running km about 2000. The bearings collapsed, skewing the rotating bits and the pump seized/spat water out. No issues with overheating prior to it failing, and the water picked up on rear tyres caused an off track excursion so problem identified quickly. The question for all 30DET builders who use theirs for regular track work is - what spec pump did you use, and have there been any other similar failures? I'm considering whether the RB30 pump is not suitable, even with a 7200rpm hard cut, and driver-imposed limit of 6500? Other than the price difference, an N1 can go in but if I've just copped a crap pump then will replace it with another stock type.

I'm running a Tighe grind in 30DET. No disagreement with Bubba, you need to not only have a power target (is that rwhp?) but also an idea of what rpm range and rpm ceiling you want the engine to operate. Mine holds peak torque almost dead flat from 3400-7000 with hard cut limiter at 7200. Very driveable and predictable, I'm satisfied with it. Scavenging seems pretty effective, and it demands heaps of ignition timing. If you're into "tough" exhaust noises it's not bad there either, but is fairly fuel hungry. I think that either stock cams or the Pon Cams might make higher peak torque number due to the benefit of VCT. But whether they hold that peak torque as long, or over what range might be different. My searching prior to building suggested a 30DET with stock cams seems to nose over just after 6000rpm, meaning the torque is falling off quickly at that point. That didn't suit my requirements, and found Tighe could supply something within my budget. Turbo selection, manifolding and porting all play their part in the characteristics you end up with, not just a power number. In talking with cam manufacturers suggest you talk to them about the use you want to put the car to, might be helpful. Update us with progress in this area please

Cape York Automotive too.

I agree with Nismoid and Wolverine. To get the best/quietest result you'd need custom cans that fill the available space. I'm running 3.5" right through, two Hurricanes as big as would fit. No drone, but it is a touch too many dB. Depending how things go over time I may have a custom can made too. Be aware that the number of bends and pipe diameter does have a big bearing on how much noise reduction is required.

Doing setup for sprints and I found my R33 front camber is set at ~ -1.8 degrees. Options are either go with an eccentric bush on the upper wishbone, or adjustable upper links to the wishbone. The links would offer a broader range of adjustment, so think they're more attractive option. An eccentric bush would allow me another degree of neg, suspect I will want a bit more. Does anybody with experience in this area know where I can source them?

You need to look at it from the perspective of improving the manifold/turbine/wastegate system. Not too many instances of going from a decently designed collector style manifold, single scroll setup and then straight to a split pulse system using similar/same compressor. It's fair to say that a good split pulse system offers tangible improvements, hopefully with the new BW turbos coming on stream we will see a few being used on Skylines

I have experienced much the same thing - 30DET with cams did not like a lean idle. Fatten it up and it behaved nicely.

The HKS "S" suffix should denote that it runs a "free floating" spec that requires an external gate. A "Pro S" suffix denotes an internally gated turbine housing. I sourced a Pro S housing and used it with an assembly sourced new from Garrett. As Adrian said, it comes without the bell mouth insert but otherwise it's the same unit.

The level of support is extraordinary; +++ to the Nitto boys. Has the gauze screen on the oil pickup tube been removed? I can't see any other way that a piece that big could work its way into an oil pump.

Adriano is on the money. It would pull like a tractor down low, build boost fast and then torque would taper quickly as rpm rose. Turbine spec is too small to let it breathe up high, could not produce over the same rpm range as Al.

Mismatching parts, and not understanding the application is where things seem to come unstuck. Best example I've seen many times over is using drag spec engine+head mods in ski boat engines. Different discipline, different requirements, need different parts and approaches to specs and modifications.

Taking the vital measurements of the spring #23139 and using a spring rates calculator, I came up with ~ 255lb/in or 4.5kg/mm.

Thanks I will ask about that one.