Dale FZ1

I think it'd be interesting while Stao is testing gear to actually fit the larger A/R housing if possible, and try that. If it truly makes 18psi by 2500rpm with the 0.63, then a 0.8 housing shouldn't see the bottom end weakened dramatically. It would be awesome to see this setup hold 250rwkW across a range eg. 5500-6500rpm than hit a peak and fall away. That would make sense if bottom end response only fell away by 200rpm.

Is the HKS GT2530 not using the same cartridge as the Garrett GT2860RS aka Disco Potato? Is the real difference between those two units that 1. GT2530 uses a RB friendly T3 flange pattern that allows it to bolt up? 2. GT2860RS uses a T25 flange pattern, and a larger 0.86A/R housing vs the 0.63 for HKS? There was a comment passed on a particular spec high flow, which happens to use the next size UP compressor and therefore with greater flow potential. It was good in its intended environment, and the experience shared with someone who wanted to know. Best practice is to match turbo to engine to intended use. For that reason I'd still advise fubar to consult with the supplier and find what turbine housing sizes/options are available for that given turbine size. If he wants to make the thing able to breathe at higher rpm, go for the bigger housing. Shame that the GT2860RS is spec'd with the T25 pattern because otherwise it would probably have been used in plenty of RB25 engine bays already.

With that spec, I ran a PFC, 040 pump, and the brown 450cc manual trans spec S15 injectors. Basic, cost effective and sized appropriately to the job. If you want to consistently bang up around 5000-7000rpm, it sounds like you need to make sure the turbine housing isn't such a restriction. Ask yourself where you want the peak torque band to sit in the rev range, and check the turbine options. As much as anything, it's how/where you make the 300rwhp as what the ceiling is. I found the stock R33 spec housing started to choke as revs rose, and it had well done its best by 6500rpm. I don't know if the OP6 Neo spec housing is the same as Hypergear's 0.63 A/R casting. You've seen a post on this thread from a reputable SAU trader with his recommendation. I'd probably be getting on the phone to Stao and discuss what options he can give you to tailor the equipment to your needs. Running high revs/load and with excessively high turbine inlet pressures aren't good for power production, and can lead to engine problems with excess heat retained in the combustion chambers. 140 degree oil temps don't sound great, I would be consulting for technical advice and make sure you are running an oil spec that can survive that treatment too. My guess is that Roy has been down that path already.

Maybe I took the OP's comments a little differently, but I'd think he's generally looking at the "drag" between turns, not a 1/4 mile? Don't under-rate how fast and easily a 300rwhp Skyline can cover ground... Agreed 100%. Sounds like he is out there and doing it. Incidentally how do you find your 32 deals with heat loadings? That spec high flow was mine Adrian. 300rwhp @ 12psi. Max boost by 2700rpm. Easy, reliable power and because it made power early it was very easy to drive fast point to point. Not really a drag strip weapon, but in terms of getting power down early out of turns it could get the jump on 260-300rwkW cars and generally punch above its weight. I've not seen anyone else run with that turbo spec, but it certainly worked. Not sure, but I don't think it would do much more than 300rwhp, cranking more boost should yield bigger mid range stick though. I often wondered if an OP6 housing would have allowed it to make torque as the rpm went over 6000, but not have a major impact on torque between 2000-3000rpm. Given that this is a proven unit, I'd go this way. Really very similar to the unit I had built, with the advantage of some extra flow capacity if desired. Back it in this should produce the 300hp @ 12psi as mine did, but with the ability to make another 40hp with a few more pounds. Possibly some differences in boost response right down low in the rpm, but I'd be certain Stao could supply the 48T cartridge if it was an issue.

Looking at the Nissanroadracing.com thread, that owner said this: Looking a bit harder, he also appears to be running a split pulse manifold but with a single / undivided wastegate vent. Perhaps he doesn't have the Full Monty from a split pulse system perspective, but it's close enough to warrant a good viewing. I'd really like to see Full Race post the back to back testing and establish what advantages the complete split pulse system offers over single scroll. Hopefully they were forthcoming in earlier communiques with Adrian?

Ok so give us a bit more detail on the engine internals and manifolding please. 470rwhp @ 20psi is respectable, no doubt about it. But the shape of the curves makes me wonder, when split pulse is supposed to help yield better spool with the potential for freer breathing up top too. Scaling on a dyno sheet can skew how the curves look, but to me that torque curve looks overly steep (concaved) as though the turbo is slow to spool, and then doesn't hold max torque long enough. I'd just have thought a RB26 would keep making torque at high revs, especially if the turbo doesn't appear super fast to come on. Getting beyond my area of direct knowledge, over time I've seen several RB25s producing similar outcomes with single scroll GT3582 0.82 turbine. Whether they drive differently is the litmus test. ^^ All comments above are free to be rebutted, particularly if that machine outperforms a similar spec conventional single scroll setup on the road. My interest has always lay with the practical outcome, not the dyno sheet.

My specs sheets say that the biggest version of the S200 and S200SX are both nominally rated at 580hp. The compressor map for the S200 says it can flow marginally more, but that is at PR >3.00 so you're looking at very high boost levels to achieve that. For me the S200SX is possibly the better with smaller sizes in both compressor and turbine rotor, hopefully pointing towards quicker spool rates as the rotating assembly should have lower levels of inertia. Speculation of course, until you could see the units side by side with housings off. The other things that make the T4 patterned S200SX more attractive are the 3 inch comp inlet = more room for inlet plumbing (is 4.25" piping easy to come by??), and the V band outlet on the turbine housing. Either way it appears you'd be spoiled for choice.

So are you going with the GT3582, or BW S200SX? And what engine capacity and spec is the system being applied to? Definitely interested to follow this one. I'd reviewed the Airwerks catalogue earlier, and concluded that BW offers a great product range and priced so you've just got to look at them. They've smartened up their act on the performance aftermarket turbo scene, but some of the technical specs aren't presented logically. Mix/matching metric and imperial measurements is annoying, and their maps aren't extensive. The broad range of housing options is just what is needed, and for anyone with the funds and performance goals requiring an EW setup, you should be able to get an unbeatable result. Interestingly for virtually any nominal hp range, the BW product runs much larger turbine specs than Garrett. Given the value of their OE supply contracts I'm not surprised that Full Race haven't experienced any failures with BW.

As a 8 x 2 blade impeller, yep it's right for what it is (a TO4B). Is it "right" or "best" for a RB25 spec high flow? Check earlier comments by Stao. You'll likely find that impeller is something used around a diesel application. Good flow capacity but the flow maps lay over to the right compared to (say) a high speed impeller like the 71mm GT35 as used on a GT-RS or GT2835R. Check and you'll see they run a 6 x 2 blade impeller. The extra blades on yours give it that low end pumping ability, but it runs into choke and efficiency falls away as shaft speeds get up. Same thing you'll see happen with water pump impellers, jet ski impellers, and boat propellors.

Looks/sounds like a general mechanical mismatch between turbine and compressor, and then the whole unit to the engine. that 8 x 2 blade T04B impeller can push a lot of air very early, so a"tight" turbine that spools it quickly will lead to surge. But that comp is not overly efficient either, so going to a bigger A/R turbine might only partly achieve your goals for a performance application. Firstly be sure the BOV is operating correctly. Then, I'd say consult directly with Stao and get the turbocharger spec'd correctly if needed. They have a few different specs that should hit the target you want.

There are many types/specs of Magnatec. What you and the previous owner have been using is most likely synthetic fortified or modified, and not a bad lubricant. The main thing is that whatever slippery stuff is in your sump continues to do its job for the required service life you expect from it. For extreme duty use, and/or longer service intervals the full synthetic is good stuff and cost justified. If you service frequently, continue as-is and keep your oil spec the same.

I simply transplanted the s1 RB25 TPS onto the VH45 throttle body. There are two corresponding plugs on the loom, and everything goes back together. As per my earlier post, there is some lengthening/shortening of wiring lengths to make it all work since the TB is no longer where Nissan intended it. I have no experience with the s2 loom, but given how easy the s1 install was, I can't see their job as any more difficult. It's just a giant Meccano set, so a bit of exploratory dismantling helps to improve the understanding.

I never thought a punch in the back of the head was "nice" Sounds like you're generally satisfied, and the setup is doing what you wanted.

To get the accuracy with a degree wheel, you need solid lifters. This is a RB25 head he's got, no mention of a conversion kit. I still think baby steps first and make sure the EMS is able to run the VVT the way it was designed to do. You'd need to follow a logical sequence of events while sorting things out.

Running stock exhaust manifold I'd think you'll pull around 430ish hp on that boost when things are right. If the VVT isn't working, that's the main source of problems. Don't look any further until it does work. Then you should be looking to be able to run more ignition timing. Both of those things will stop you making a bucketload of power.

Stock head with VVT? Does the EMS operate VVT correctly? I'd be expecting you could run a lot more timing than 16 degrees too - again making me think of your cam timing.

Suggest you might get someone to look at that actuator mounting bracket and rod. I'd like a straight line push onto that crank for the wastegate valve. Otherwise good to see you've got it on and running. Give us results and opinion in due course please.

So you have an exhaust manifold, turbo, dump, and the water/oil lines? That should bolt up without much fuss. BUT the Neo DET ran a bigger turbine housing, and DE ran higher static comp than the earlier version in R33 (which was at 10:1). DE spec engines also lack under piston oil squirters and an oil cooler to deal with thermal loadings. Search and you should also find the Neo DE has smaller inlet ports than a Neo DET. For me, none of the above add up to potential for a particularly powerful DE+T - too limited by a close ceiling to knock. That said, if done you could end up with a very flat torque curve with low boost.

Search and you shall find. http://nico.zeroforum.com/zerothread?cmd=print&id=470665 Found the pics, thought it was a build done in the US. 6boost must be doing a decent export trade too. Pipework looks schmick, but I do wonder if the WG takeoff pipes are at a fairly abrupt angle. Definitely looks the part, wish I could find the specs from BW on a S362.

This is something I'd like to see a few pictures of, just to show what can be done. I do like your thinking, and for the $$ spent it should be a great setup. Question - when you say car runs fine, do you mean it idles fine, or it runs through the rpm range fine? If it's not boosting it should be as flat as a fart as you attempt to rev and/or load it. Does not sound right that it is fine other than no boost. Have you checked the pipework for any rags inadvertently left behind during final assembly? ^+1, but: If it is not boosting at all, those gates would nearly have to be wide open and basically bypassing all gases. And again, it would be giving lifeless response. I'd also remove the compressor inlet pipe to check that the compressor can actually spin (I noted that you'd commented about being able to hear it spooling). Make sure there is no assembly error or anything else that has it seized or dragging.

Another satisfied owner - good stuff. Run it for another couple of weeks and come back to us with comments about whether you find it progressive, predictable, and "enough"

Tuning, keep the thing out of knock and let it live a long life.

Unless it's a big dollar, big rev build there should be no issues. Differences are fairly general until you get into the N1, and they're really just built to be more efficient at high rpm. The 25DE/DET run slightly higher oil pressure to cater for VVT but nothing likely to give you grief if that's what you can source. The 30 pumps are significantly different and I don't think likely to be as efficient at higher rpm. In short, run a pump designed for a twin cam RB.

Different flange pattern. I'd like to see someone run one too, but would require a manifold to suit.

+1 Unless the ECU settings are altered to account for the extra flow, it will be running rich EVERYWHERE.