Dale FZ1

Car got a run over the weekend. Morgan Park C series super sprints, 1.5km track D. Running old Hankook Z221 rubber. Engine performance was in another league going from the Kinugawa to Precision (very predictably). But does require a bit of on track tuning to maximise tractive capability. Essentially we will revise how boost ramps and hope to maintain drive rather than turning tyres. Big thank you to Mafia (JP Tuning) who overviewed engine performance with logging. Hp increase definitely made the straight bits a lot shorter, and it was amazing to hit the limiter in 4th where that was never likely with the previous setup. In spite of that, the Kinugawa still rates highly for value and it did/does seem to make good torque. But the boost recovery response on gearchange is worlds apart. Precision was straight back to max boost where the TD06 takes its time. My revised catch can setup was ok, but will be making another revision asap to reinstate the drain back setup. Heavy breathing and dropping sump levels during a run was a bit concerning for dropping oil pressure under brakes. Weekend stopped early for me due to leaky brake master cylinders. Still investigating the cause on that one, but no confidence in a long pedal meant I exercised discretion and braked super early. Fix it and play harder next time, but it still improved on previous PB despite driving conservatively. The NZ wiring cam trigger kit did the trick, and log traces showed massive improvement on the old worn CAS. Mafia identified a couple of small errors, but nothing to cause concern at this point. Going to call that upgrade a win, at least for RB engines that are running up to 7000 and 500rwhp. Be interested to see what the dyno says when we get time to run it again.

The price is an investment in reliability and achieving whatever your mechanical layout and tuning capabilities will allow. Who wants to blow an engine because of wildly scattered ignition at high rpm/load? As for direct plug & play, forget it. You're moving away from OEM spec so expect there's going to be some work involved.

If it's all in good order (free rotation, no grinding or end float, no flange warp) and is cheap, you could give it a try. But I wouldn't bother if it's running a 0.68 A/R turbine. The bigger 0.87 is what you'd want with that turbo on a RB25. Definitely nothing inherently wrong with a 3037/3076.

Change the rear end gearing. Make the engine run in its happy zone. RB20 requires revs.

A 4.6 or 4.8 diff ratio will work wonders, faster engine speed for given road speeds.

As the OEM CAS units age, there is a definite drop off in their accuracy. Things wear, and you get a small amount of slop in the drive splines. And with bigger power pulses from a more powerful engine, this all combines to produce timing scatter so that the ECU doesn't exactly know correct engine speed or position. Not good when you want a good tune and reliability. Proper crank trigger setup is the ultimate fix IMO with an RB. Equal importance to an oiling system that doesn't suck air or break pump gears. Hall sensors are not the ideal choice and can get "lost" sometimes. Which is why OEM setups use reluctors. But the kit you mention can/does work well. Which it would want to, for the $$ required. You will need some wiring changes, and a tuner who knows how to configure the ECU to read/interpret the triggering.

Is a 3037 Pro S housing actually available these days?

Pics show how tidy this one went onto a 25 Neo. I believe some setup/tuning issues were being sorted at the time but the bones of the job are right IMO.

What fuel for that result? I'm thinking E85. Post up dyno sheet with torque curve if you've got one! S256 is still a very good unit, given its age. Application is on a John Deere harvester. There's an updated/higher flowing unit too, called S257SXE. Both built to deliver/handle high pressure ratios, so the thrust bearing is good. I nearly got one but BW Matchbot and a bit of consultation with Full Race indicated they were a touch small for a 30DET. Very good match on a 25/26 capacity and a comfortable 450rwhp on petrol. If I still ran the short stroke bottom end, I'd go for one and spend on a twin gate/split pulse setup. The new price vs performance for these things makes them a no brainer up against "budget" and "entry level" units.

RB25 head, fixed cams Tighe grind 805C 8.9mm lift, 265 degree. Hydraulic lash adjust. 8.4:1 static CR. Freddy intake manifold, VH45 TB. 6 boost exhaust manifold, 50mm Pro Gate. 3.5 inch exhaust from turbo back. 2 inch plumb back off gate. Precision 6266CEA, single scroll 0.84 T3 flange. Fuel - petrol. Boost - 24psi consistent from 4200-7200 Issues - experienced timing scatter due to OEM CAS.

Shots of the fuel tank lid setup. Overall quite happy, but word of warning there's a fair bit of effort to make all this work just to retain a factory tank. For dedicated track use, I'd consider a fuel cell the most intelligent mod although I prefer the fuel sitting ahead of the rear axle. Not all hose rated/purchased as submersible fuel hose performs as advertised either. Go with Gates or Dayco. Notice this stuff went soft within 48 hours of exposure, and blew off the push-lock fitting. The second lesson is to build in a redundancy and use EFI hose clamps where there's pressure. The jet-siphon setup seems to work well, drags fuel efficiently from the LHS saddle and drops it down to where the pump picks up.

A few shots of the gate position, dump/plumb back design, and a trial side pipe. Gate setup is about right. I can change the unit in about 15 mins tops when cold. That's a big achievement in my books. Also seems sized well to the application, and provides adequate boost control via the MAC. Just working on gate pressure, it spikes and then bleeds back. We will play with spring combinations in the future but generally fit for purpose. Some people might handle the dB of a straight pipe, but found it's not for me. Mods now underway to try a decent resonator to kill the bark. Wait and see. Would like to retain a short/light/simple system that can be installed without assistance. Minimum ground clearance achieved was 115mm, with the lagging fitted so all tucked up and tidy.

No, just a 25 head with hydraulic lifters and upgraded springs + minor exhaust port adjustments. The whole thing is loafing along, quite a bit more to extract if desired. We'll resolve the triggering prior to the next event at end of May, and get it on the rollers at some stage just to validate the improvement. Going with the cam trigger setup you mention, interested to see the difference in timing logs. Probably staying with petrol at this point simply because it's not short on stick for what I need the car to do. And I avoid the inevitable need to go with further fuel system upgrades. Money better spent on tyres/event entry and actual seat time

Here's a 6266CEA on my 30DET @ 24psi, held across 4200-7200rpm. All basic build stuff, engine included. 8.4:1 CR, 265 degree 8.9mm fixed cams. Single scroll 0.84A/R on a 6boost manifold, 50mm gate plumbed back. Running on petrol. Timing scatter is currently an issue, did impact on tune/output so there's gains simply from fixing that (in progress now before the next event)

33 has been getting some attention over the past 12 months, finally about to get a run. Turbo/manifold change, now with a Precision 6266 ball bearing, single scroll 0.84 and 50mm gate. 6boost manifold. Also updated from Vipec to a Link G4+, installed some Bosch pressure/temp sensors for fuel and oil, Motec LTC lambda input, new I/C piping and Wiggins clamps (china copies). Catch can/crankcase ventilation was revised too. Pretty happy with the results, built by me in my shed. Budgets and skill sets did cause the timeline to stretch out a bit. Fuel system upgraded with a single Walbro 460 in tank, custom tank lid with AN fittings and power terminals. Things came together on the dyno without any worries. Not wanting to put too much stress on the engine/turbo setup so it put down the numbers pretty easy. The goal was for a broad/flat torque curve for traction, which we got. Probably won't appeal to those interested in numbers, or feel that exciting to drive. But it ought to be no-fuss and let me get on with driving. Installed a dash-mounted potentiometer for driver selectable boost, should be good for wet days. Timing scatter is evident, and it's time to investigate crank trigger setups and ditch the OEM CAS.

Double check the input scaling of that sensor in the relevant ANV table, such that the ECU is correctly interpreting the voltage input. If you had short term access to a known/good mechanical gauge it might make for good cross checking. After that it would be well worth changing the oil grade, and do a back to back comparison for changes.

I have three questions for this Is the oil pump bone stock ie. original springs, no shims? Are you relying on the OEM gauge in the dash for "accurate" pressure indication? Have you tried a different grade of oil as per Bob's comment?

Wrapping it up will be when you have had a successful trial run. Let us know please!

Incorrect (excessive) camber will result in poor traction and handling, and silly tyre wear. Suggest about -0.5 to -.0.75 is where the aimpoint should be. Another clearance fix is to get handy with angle grinder, tin snips, hammer, and welder. Cut the guards, install flares. Instant clearance. And depending on your viewpoint, they look good too.

Wastegate takeoff angle on that manifold looks like it could make problems for efficient boost control.

Agreed. If there's one available for cheap.

There's a lot of recommendations made that are going to require a $10k minimum spend to make the car capable of running reliably. They're not bad ideas, just failing to acknowledge the financials. Until OP is prepared/able to pony up for all the regular associated upgrades - ECU, cooler, proper exhaust, fuel system, clutch, rubber, brakes, suspension I'd say he's best to stick with a small close to stock sized replacement running low boost eg 10psi and keep motoring until the funds are there.

+1. This makes a lot of sense. Capitalise on the flow capabilities of the turbo. It's hardly going to be weak up higher. Spend the saved money on engineering a capable fuel system from front to back. Look at pics provided by Piggaz.

Two suggestions come to mind: 1. Kick off a thread with this specific question 2. Chase an opinion/advice from Kelford and let us know what they say. It's their product after all. Given that you want early spool and the turbo is a big breathing unit, I'd think the smallest 182-C would be the best choice of those three options.

Fit it up to the Cefiro donk. See how the fuel system copes - presuming you'll be spending on a decent fuel pressure sensor and monitor fuel system performance. If you ran a turbo speed sensor, you could probably evaluate fuel flow requirements vs airflow as a function of turbo speed. And have a lot of information about what the GTR would require. 2wd Cefiro can only put down so much torque, I'd look at that aspect of how you want to tune the engine. The two engine breakers will be rpm, and detonation. If you're fuel system limited then you're not likely to run enough boost to create cylinder pressures that will bend rods.