Dale FZ1

www.motorsportbrakes.com.au/ Consult with Marty, brakes is his day job and he knows this stuff inside out. Far easier to get it right, and he offers great support. It's not just about selling product for him. You're going to need the piston sizes of your calipers to get any calculations done.

The difference is night and day for feel. Initial setup prep for M/C sizing is by maths to get the basic proportions in the correct ballpark. And it's quite possible that you will need to trial one or two combinations. You may not know that you've hit the best combination until you experience one that's not as "right". My first go, the pedal wasn't terribly heavy, had excellent feel, but the travel was way too l-o-n-g. Not a good feeling during a heavy decel event from 175 to 60 and that tyre wall seems very close. Second go with different M/C sizes, the pedal length was where I felt it needed to be, but seemed WAY heavy. After the first couple of applications, the driver becomes acclimatised to what's required, and you become aware that pedal feel is still sensational. A few events later and I had a run in Mafia's 34 GTR (lovely car, 400awkW so pretty strong). Boosted brakes were sensationally strong but devoid of feel and progression. If you've got the time, budget, and a bit of perseverance, a proper balance bar setup that's actually set up is streets ahead and you don't notice pedal weight. Some people will disagree and run with modern ABS setups and rely on the technology to do the stopping. Each to their own.

Keep the pics coming. Great to see people enjoying their rides safe and responsible. Hoses do perish. Make sure you have reasonably fresh fuel hoses too. My 33 developed a pinhole in the pressure feed to the rail, about 2 months after it came off the boat. Could have ended in a flaming mess on the roadside. On inspection, there was a bulge in that pinhole area and it just gave way.

I'd say nature will take its course, and they will be well oiled without using the K&N stuff. I generally give mine a hit with degreaser after a couple of events, reduce the saturation levels (probably a pointer that my system isn't quite right either).

That would be my line of thinking. Everyone has an idea, and in Interweb forum land we are all experts. But all engines breathe. And the pressure in the sump carries vapours. Emissions-legal cars have the vapours going into the inlet to be burned, normally shows up with all that caked on oil/grease trail in the inlet. So it takes a bit of trial and error to configure a catch can setup that doesn't puff smoky vapours. Just because a catch can has a workshop's name on it, doesn't mean it will work perfectly (even if it's better than many others). I doubt if the turbo drain has become restricted, but it wouldn't hurt to inspect and consider whether it's sized and routed as well as possible. All factors can impact results, so have a look. One thing I found with my 30DET over successive track seasons, is that the engine breathes. I have implemented a number of modifications to the setup, and this has helped a LOT to get things satisfactory (not a smoky oily mess underbonnet when a run is finished anymore). But familiarity with the car etc means it's being driven harder/faster, and I wipe a rag around the catch can outlet to clean any haze that's evident.

www.turbofast.com.au/TurbochargerFactsAndMyths.html This is a source to have absolute faith in. Probably an issue with overall breather design. Mechanical baffling in the cam covers, breather hose sizes, catch can internal design and volume, and breather filter size/number. You see people running two cans in series sometimes, looking to deal with heavy breathing/smoking. Hose routing/orientation is also a factor to avoid oil vapours condensing and pooling in dipped/low sections. There is a bit of thought/effort to get this aspect right.

Well that tells us your injector choice. The "small items" ie all the bits before the injectors are what I'd like to see details and pics for if possible. Tank top hat, wiring, pump(s), pump control, jet siphon pump, reg, and lines. That's all the good stuff IMO.

It all sounds like serious intent. So probably going to take a serious spend. Sump - dry Rods - Carillo Pistons - SPS Cams - Kelford Ignition - Yaris/Audi/R35/Chev coils, crank trigger Turbo - BW 8374 or Precision 6266 at a minimum. Probably go up to a 9180 or 6466. Head studs I would go to 1/2 inch. The focus of the build would be airflow, and reliability of fuel, oil, ignition, and cooling systems IMO.

^^ Same experience for me.

Welcome to SAU Simon - first post! Presuming you're looking at alignment settings. Toe +8mm Front, -4mm Rear (total) Camber -6 Front -2 Rear Caster - as much as you can Throw up a few more pics of your car and some detail.

Quite possibly someone did know what they were doing. If you're feeling lazy, find the cash to pay someone with the dial indicator gear to investigate. Determine what the cams actually are, and decide whether you want/need to adjust from where they are.

The widened front and rear bodywork look great!! Very interested to hear what the TTI box goes like.

Install the adjustable cam gears straight off and use the markers as per Ben's comment. Then pay someone competent to degree your cams. Hint: this is far easier and less time consuming to do on the bench/engine stand.

Two things I'd suggest before spending up on some extractors. First, establish what you want the engine to do, what rpm range you are going to find acceptable (implicit in that is the gearing you have, and whether a diff ratio change is necessary or desirable), and what $$ cost you want to limit this upgrade to. Second, find a competent engine builder who understands RB heads. ( I'm hesitant to recommend any particular builder, but suggest The Mafia might be able to help with a name. ) Depending on their advice and your budget, you should review those cam specs and decide to either replace or re-time the Jap cams. Your head may require porting modifications (and I've seen instances where there was material added into an RB port to improve flow). At the very least those cams should be properly degreed for the outcome you want. Not a guessing game. Then find who is going to build those extractors for you. (unlikely there will be any off the shelf for an RB twin cam). They should establish the diameter/length of the primary and secondary pipes, plus the diameter of the system being built, based on your goals and some critical spec details on the engine. There is a handful of people in the country who are properly competent in this area, IMO. Once that's done, you're probably heading towards an engine spec where things are designed to work together. And yes, you should then be looking to have the tune sorted so that fuel and ignition are working with the airflow characteristics of the engine.

A decent L series with LD 3.1 stroker crank and LOTS of attention to detail with all the right bits to achieve airflow might struggle to do better than 210rwhp (say 165rwkW). There's a fairly serious spend required to get there, and a lot of revs that sacrifices low rpm torque. One of those IMO is a spiritual father to a 30DE donk. I think a 30DE build as you've described is pretty good if it made 130rwkW while retaining a dirty old cast manifold. I'd guess it did its best before 6000rpm too. If you wanted to play up around the 8000rpm mark there's a fair bit of engineering magic required: complete inlet tract, porting, cam profile and timing, complete exhaust tract, and I'd say a proper crank trigger kit to avoid timing scatter. Notice that's all airflow related. You'd still want pistons/rods/fasteners/proper valve springs, retainers, light buckets/light flywheel and balance the lot. And a properly thought out oiling system. N/A horsepower doesn't come cheap. But it can be very effective when done right. Look at the BMW M3 engines, particularly thinking the 3.0 and 3.2 litre I6.

Thank God you were in a rural area and nobody else got hurt. Those cultivation rows would have been a help to pull you up but would have been a wild ride.

I don't share the same view re gearbox. Having something geared such that the engine is kept more within its useable torque range, tolerates/demands positive/quick gear changing is going to be a better thing all round in a track/competitive environment. I'll stand up and say a CA running 200kW with a CR dog box will probably be (depending on track and driver) equal or better than a 250kW SR running a standard box. End of the day, motorsport and car mods aren't cheap. It's your choice, there's different views/perspectives. Keep us updated with what course you take.

Cubic inches do count. I agree with that. But the effort + cost vs return on investment doesn't add up here. Following your build thread, I'd be tipping the coin into decent tyres (and often). And chasing down a proper close ratio dog box. Those two things would add much more speed.

Operating either engine above the boost threshold for the turbo, yep the result will be largely similar. It's not like you've selected a monster sized turbo, and it's not going to be that hard to keep the engine spinning at 3500 even on the slowest corners. Turbos (ie airflow) make torque so the 2860 will make a world of difference to a stock CA. A 2860 won't make that much torque that you will strip the gears in your box. Track work on a tarmac circuit doesn't see shock load/unload situations like you will on a gravel rally stage. (that can/does cause problems). I find it's drivers that generally break gearboxes.

-8 = fuel system bling Bulkier fittings and lines/hoses start to become a packaging/routing problem then. But I like.

I started motorsport in rally, navigating in a R31. There's nothing wrong with a good NA. It's just that a 2 valve RB head is nothing at all special. The whole thing can be made better ie able to breathe and make the torque at higher rpm with a 4 valve head. Depends how much you want to go down that path, and what the budget is to make things less wrong. Big heavy NA RB won't go through twisty hillclimb stuff that easy, and you'll need a sun dial to time it for Time Attack. But you could certainly have fun. Fatz evidently had a whale of a time in 24 hour Lemons event with his R31.

RB30E with a cam and extractors. If it made a genuine 120rwkW you'd have to be satisfied. Not far short at 108. Guessing it's all done at 5000rpm? It's a lot harder to make NA hp, and it's going to involve compression, proper fuel eg E85, lots of revs and light components that rotate and reciprocate. Toss out the 2 valve head and get a 4 valve. Multiple throttles inlet, and then find someone who understands inlet tract length, header design, and cam spec/timing. Presuming you're in love with NA RB engines.

It's all about where the pistons finish up at TDC. As per Ben's comments, these won't be right if they're for a 25 build.

This is a setup I'd like to see! I've felt that the S257 SXE is an untried hero for the RB budget performance crowd. Pics please, and show us the dyno sheet. Any idea what sort of timing this thing is taking up top? What does it drive like?

Should prove to be a good combination Craig. Next stop, upgraded clutch to handle the mumbo.