Dale FZ1

T25 flange is the first hurdle. Requires work to adapt to the stock T3 flange on the manifold. Then there is the issue of exactly what spec the rotating assembly is (CHRA in Garrett-speak). With these things you need to do homework on them before jumping in. cheers

Sunshine Coast, Queensland

Asked if I have an elbow, the answer is yes. It has been in my shed for past few years from another job on an RB20. I reused my RB25 elbow with my RB25 high flow. If the RB20 elbow is useful to a buyer, it can be included. Photos of the unit generally, plus comp and turbine.

I have a spare RB20 spec elbow. Photos of turbo to come later today.

As per title, a R33 series 1 spec turbo removed to fit my high flow. Perfect condition, no end-play, no noises, no smoke, run at stock boost only. $350

Here is the thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=127600&hl= Has a few pics and other details that might help. The core used was a 48T GT2871R - CHRA 446179-5031. This is smaller than that used in the HKS GT-RS. The only common componentry between this one and a Garrett GT28RS is the 53.8mm turbine; it has a 71mm (vs 60mm) compressor. I'm totally satisfied with the performance outcome on RB25. At a guess I would say it would be very useful on a RB20, but allow maybe a few hundred rpm difference in response. It will give lots of mid range punch. Plenty of data log runs shows that on a winding road run I rarely run over 5500 before changing up, mostly run on the fat mid range and early boost. cheers

Given that you're likely to be needing to scrub about 20 or maybe 30 deg.C out of the oil, the liquid-liquid route should be highly effective. The trick will be to have a suitable specification for the core thickness: fin density (ie fins per cm) to allow good airflow through the core and satisfactory overall heat transfer. Power output of the engine will have a significant bearing on how well this setup would work.

Here is some sort of comparison; it doesn't actually indicate what size their secondary filter was, but visually it gave some sort of indicator. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/ FWIW, I'm running a HKS branded stainless mesh pod looks the same as the Blitz. Wasn't entirely happy with not knowing how well it worked. I got a K&N Filtercharger - a fabric over-bag that fits like a shower cap. Ran a dusty motorkhana on grass/dirt and there was no sign of dust ingress into the inlet trunking. Best thing was I could use warm soapy water to wash out both the filter and overbag.

Try a search on threads by The Mafia. I believe he has many similar supporting mods and is after same sort of drag strip performance.

I think Roy is the man to ask. Seems to have had more experience than many/most with the RB20.

Do you know what is the origin/design of the turbine housing? Perhaps an R34 / VG30 type, or copy of one?

Better yet, get a Datalogit. Use a laptop and full size screen, and access further capabilities of the ECU.

That looks like a big comp cover - no wonder you needed the spacer. What is the origin of the turbine housing? 0.71 A/R with T3 flange seems a bit of an unknown. Will be very interested to see how it goes for you. One of these should offer response and good power. Any chance of a clear shot of the ID plate with numbers?

Valve lash by bucket + shim arrangement on Neo, similar to RB26 setup.

Rocket covers? Are you thinking about rocker covers?

With spot-on tuning, I feel his existing combination can be made to work satisfactorily, and even produce the power to throw an R33 down the drag strip at very tidy speeds. The torque curve (what curve?? - it's like a table from 3000 - 6000rpm) means that on the boil he has a car that is controllable and predictable, and smile inducing. In many respects the 2.5 litre engine capacity is a stumbling block for the combination, with a RB30 likely to be the best base for Mafia's existing GT30. A couple of plots on the TO4S flow maps tend to support that. Given that his engine plans involve some RB26 rods and forged slugs, I think the 700177-5007 cartridge based 3076 is going to deliver better results with quicker engine response for the smaller swept volume of an RB25. That's the good thing about engineering; you can use many different means to get to an end result.

You have a range of options besides those units. Firstly, I'd suggest you use the SEARCH function, with those keywords in your post. That will give instant access to a lot of results and various discussions. Also try looking around results for Slide, GCG, KKR480, GT2871R, high flow. There are lots of opinions about each, and a chance of matching something to your budget. Any turbo available off ebay is also available from regular sources so you get the chance to research your preferences. cheers

Top effort with the pics!! There is no doubting the speed of those Evos, and Subarus for that matter. Any links to the timing outputs for the day? With the temps experienced this week, I'm almost glad I had a gearbox build to do for our motorkhana car on the day. Cooking in the Ipswich/Willowbank heat is not enjoyable - as per comments about cars getting hot. Any major problems for your 34, jmac?

It does - under full load. Consistent/accessible power under on/off throttle (ie. transient response) is where it becomes a little more difficult to quantify with a dyno curve. I'd be interested to see a readout with the torque curve and boost curve, rather than the power curve to be honest. That would tell much more than a power curve IMO. The LM-1 is starting to show its influence on the tune now too?

I second this. Drive the thing, you will soon find it doesn't just boost when on steady state cruise. Best way to disable a turbo? Tip a handful of shotgun pellets down the air intake. Guaranteed to work

Given the work/trouble you're going to, surely a day's down time + 100 bucks (depending) to put in a divider is worth it? Despite the opinions about these units - and my own Garrett type leanings - I'm going to be interested to see how it goes.

Sorry Paul, incorrect. The JDM thing is a myth. S15 manual spec are 480cc, auto spec are 370cc. Doesn't matter where the car was sold; I did the parts number checks before getting a set. BTW, this sort of injector would only fit with a R33 spec. SK has posted on this topic previously. I believe the original question related to a Neo. cheers

I have the chance to pull my sump in the next 10 days and have a sender fitted. Then I will know after 12 months of wondering the same thing. Technical advice from Shell indicates a minimum of 80 to prevent sludging, but preferably under 120 to avoid degradation.

I have a HKS stainless mesh pod that bolts directly on to my RB25 AFM. Works well, though I have a K&N precharger (a fabric oversock that looks like a shower cap). No filter fluids, and they wash out in soapy water.

Double check ALL hose clamps. I had a similar experience. The clamps SEEMED to be firm, but after replacing the joiner hoses some months ago there was evidently some compression of the rubber that decreased the effective clamping pressure. Another half-turn on the clamps cured it. Not coincidentally, I noticed the noise increasing when I bumped up boost from 10 - 14psi and began developing the fuel map to suit.