Dale FZ1

Good stuff - see you up there. I've seen your R34 around Currimundi - like the paintwork. Last event there were a few AWD entries - traction was unbelieveable.

Here's a link to more info about motorkhanas generally (from a quick Google search): http://www.cams.com.au/downloads/qld/2005/...22motorkhana%22

Depending on who your insurer is, it may cost nothing. Suncorp charges nothing. My CTP insurer charges $10. It usually takes a phone call to set up the extension and they fax it to me. Easy. You can get a day license to cover the event. Cost on that one is not great either; I will get some info. Basically these are essentials, but easy to organise. The event is overviewed by CAMS, and that is how things work. I've seen people previously come along for a look, then really wish they had made the arrangements prior so they could have competed.

Use this tool for locality: http://www.zoomin.com.au/australia/qld/fed...ing+creek+road/ Harry is on the money - focus is fun. There will be a variety of tests, but none run in reverse gear that I'm aware of. NDSCC has a core of rally people, and viewing the scenery through the side windows gets them excited.

Here's an event worth trying. Organised by the Northern Districts Sporting Car Club (see www.ndscc.asn.au) Date: Sunday 17 September 2006 Location: Skyring Creek Road, Federal (North of Cooroy, venue just near the Imbil turnoff from Bruce Highway). Cost: $20 entry and need 3rd party insurance extension certificate. Level 2 Non speed CAMS license, but can get a day license to try the event out. Pay on the day. Motorkhana is real entry level motorsport, focus on agility and car control. This event is run on a level grassy surface, so traction is not great and power less important than good control and consistency. Being a non-speed event, and also classified as a club event, no helmet required for closed roof cars, and passengers are allowed. The focus is on fun and participation at low cost. CAMS stewards will supervise, and vehicles scutineered for basic safety standards prior to the stages being run. I ran in this event in April/May, 4 drivers in 2 Hyundais and had a ball. Plan on running the R33 this time just for kicks and mainly to improve my car control. Beats skidpan days. Anyone interested? cheers

Very impressive, and typical of what you can expect with a Japanese-style full kit. No argument that you get what you pay for.

Yes, he works out of Sydney. Busy but helpful. I felt comfortable with his advice because he grasped what I was actually trying to achieve with the upgrade.

Nice effort - very commendable given some of the opposition. Are you interested in the NDSCC motorkhana on 17 September? Check out www.ndscc.asn.au for details.

I had fast idle issues after splitting plenum and throttle body while doing injector change. Annoying, time consuming, but I removed and retensioned the plenum. Problem fixed. Hard to give a worthwhile diagnosis if all you tell us is that the idle is fast. More information please?? cheers

Cam change alters volumetric efficiency. I'd call it "opened" for cam, compression, or turbo change. They all change the way the engine breathes. Modified is modified.

Turn the AAC bypass screw clockwise to drop idle, anti-clockwise to raise it. Use the search function on AAC valve and there is lots to see/help you out. cheers Dale

This thread is starting to get the feel of throwing out grain to the chooks and watch them come in... After comments about all the direct bolt-up units, out comes something from left field that just doesn't make sense. Doesn't seem like much has been achieved by people contributing. Have you inquired with any sellers eg. GCG, Hpinabox, MTQ, Turbo Aust, Slide, etc etc. Have you searched existing threads at any length? Here's something about the Mitsubishi units on RB20, took 10 seconds to find: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=td05+rb20 I'm out of this one now, but agree with discopotato03 that if you want bottom end torque and response then go the route of cubic capacity. Otherwise virtually any of the units suggested will give good (but slightly different) results on RB20. cheers

Looking at a how-to with pics, but here are the main points assuming a stock engine: drain radiator remove cross-over pipe into throttle body remove throttle body disconnect fuel lines disconnect AAC lines disconnect loom connectors onto AAC remove plenum mounting bolts and split manifold access entire fuel rail and remove mounting bolts use some lube like silicon spray or brake assembly lube around injector mounts loosen and remove injectors from rail installation is basically reverse procedure. You will need a reasonable amount of time, patience and a few tools to make it happen. If not, take it to a mechanic.

First issue to resolve is whether you want the benefits and can afford the cost of a BB highflow. Otherwise speak with Slide about his plain-bearing units. There is also the issue of straight bolt-up kits as Roy indicated. Check out my thread relating to Garrett based high flow for how they fit up to RB series engines. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127600 Essentially the same to fit up whether RB20 or 25. It therefore comes down to deciding on the spec that is right for you. Do have a plan and work out what you actually want – there will be a big difference in transient response between a unit that can realistically deliver 200 or 230 or 260rwkW. Size the unit according to what you want, can use, and can afford. In your case, there are three cartridges I see as worth a serious look if you went the Garrett BB high flow route. 446179-12. From my understanding, probably the same as HKS 2510. 60mm comp in 60T, 53.0mm turbine in 62T 446179-51. This one appears the same as HKS 2530. 60mm comp in 62T, 53.8mm turbine in 76T 446179-31. One size down from HKS GT-RS. 71mm comp in 48T, 53.8mm turbine in 76T; I used this cartridge with the RB25 The -12 cartridge will probably be closest in feel to the factory turbo, and obviously the -31 the least. They are all going to be good streetable matches to your RB20, offering quick response. I couldn’t see any of them getting over 230rwkW. The biggest difference amongst them performance-wise is likely to be found in the 76T turbine which I think will offer a greater flow potential and drive efficiency – more power up high, and excellent lower end shaft torque for good boost response. Suggestion: look at the -51 cartridge, and use the 0.60 A/R comp cover. Then have the RB20 turbine housing machined to fit. Not quite a HKS but will give excellent response and good power. I think it will run out of puff at between 210-220rwkW. In the end its about having realistic expectations, definite ideas about application, and a budget. cheers

Currently running the std AFM, but suspect that I will get better/more accurate full load tuning with either a Z32 or Q45 - higher voltage scale. Injectors are S15 specunits, nominal rating of 480cc but I believe at stock pressures delivering 450cc. Yes, the PFC is fitted and in my opinion, the essential key to the whole upgrade route. Other ECUs are available and just as good, the importance is to have freedom in adjusting the fuel and ignition strategies. The turbo, as per pictures, uses stock Nissan housings on a Garrett core 446179-31 CHRA. You may see it referred to as a SB8031. Check the turbobygarrett.com site for full details. The link you have picked shows the full Garrett unit with their housings and the T25/5 bolt inlet/outlet flange that makes fitment to a Skyline more difficult. Cost-wise, check my last post. The seller I bought from was Turbo Australia, operating out of Brisbane. Depending where you are, any of the other reputable sellers (GCG, MTQ, etc) can replicate what I got. There is no rocket science in the machining, but I believe there is some science in matching the specs to intended application. cheers

This is what took me the time (12 months) to know with certainty what I wanted. And it meant I had to reject the advice from ALL sellers - they wanted to push the sizing UP and didn't seem to understand my objectives and preferences. In the end it was a conversation with a Garrett engineer that confirmed my convictions. The HKS unit will do everything you want, but the cost is savage.

Garrett produce a large volume of literature showing how to select and match a turbo to an engine. I have an interest in the technical aspects of turbocharger operation and their characteristics, and also in engineering detail generally. Basically I was prepared to do the reading, research, discussion, and mathmatics involved in selecting the cartridge specification for myself, while taking the time to understand and project how it was likely to work, and why. Owners with Garrett/HKS upgrades to 2530 and GT-RS commented about the abilities of those units, and I figured I wanted to hit a performance capability somewhere in the middle of those two while paying less than full whack for either. The cartridge I selected basically was specified in the middle, although I know using stock Nissan-spec housings will probably reduce the overall abilities of the unit than if HKS-spec housings were used. Short answer: cost, and confidence in my abilities to select a unit that would do most everything a GCG unit or HKS unit would at a lower cost. I specifically included photos and measurements of the stock Nissan impellers to give everyone an idea of what the factory engineers chose. Yes, this unit is all about response and a flow-limited top end. Even before the tuning and boost level is finalised I reckon it will meet the needs I specified. Budget less than 1600 for the whole job, but note that there is a degree of stuffing about. cheers

No - left the orifice at Nissan-spec. It's a pity I never took photos of it, although my skills are only average and may not have captured the view well. I figured the oil supply requirements would be no different for the Hitachi core vs the Garrett core, being basically similar designs. I did actually find using the stock banjo + bolt not 100% to my liking due to vibrations working on the pipe, and have my Enzed mate looking for a suitable Earls type fitting. He has done hose-end mods for guys with Silvias who have gone with Garrett BB upgrades and retained full flow lines - evidently the volume + pressure quickly defeated seals and flooded the turbo with oil. Messy and very smoky, apparently. Whether the orifice is 1mm or 1.6 or 2.0 I don't think is a big issue, but the point of note was that the OE unit survived quite well with the tiny orifice. I believe the Garrett high flow will do likewise. cheers

Got any pics?

Harry I know you will see Dave Gaines / Nikki Doyle there (again). I take it you will be in the 32? Work commitments pulled the rug out from underneath my entry; direct impact of someone else feelin they were too stressed to be there. Not happy, but it did prod me into getting one of Geoff's HICAS lock bars. All I have is reasonable access to in-car to see what I will miss out on. Geoff isn't the old "Victoria - the place to be" slogan such a misnomer? I reckon that's why they brought in "on the move" - just missed out on the "to Queensland" ending. cheers

I take it you meant 360 degree thrust bearing? If so, you are talking about a plain-bearing cartridge? Not going into the whole plain bearing / BB debate - been done to death. I'm not against plain bearings, but I did go with a BB cartridge upgrade. When you say GT30 impeller, are you aware there is a range of trim sizes available? Which one? Nismoid's question about a compressor map is justifiable - read the literature that Garrett put out about them. The maths is not that hard either - you do need to know what your power target and intended delivery is. Cubes is also right about the hot side being generally the limiting factor - it has to be able to flow what the cold side is stuffing in, but also to drive the cold side efficiently. I don't have any probs with your choice, just a matter of knowing what you want it to do. FWIW, The Mafia and Jmac have both used a similar cartridge to yours for upgrade. Their posts seem to indicate satisfaction, even if others disagreed at times. Do a search and see for yourself. I believe the RB25DE runs 10:1 compression. That should point out the immediate limitation of your intended match: any significant boost will likely lead to an early failure. Otherwise use a small-ish turbo and get it to crank out significantly more torque than the N/A engine. Much the same as Nissan did with the DET. Might actually be cheaper and just as effective to buy/install a DET engine in that case. cheers

At this boost level, it is such an easy thing to drive; due to a combination of the factors you've experienced too. That "windmill" effect is really easy to pick at highway speeds when you hit a hill. The gauge stays on vacuum, but the car actually accelerates like the previous cartridge would allow when there was a few psi pumping in. Also, under the same conditions a slight increase in throttle will see boost coming in progressively whereas the OE cartridge would have pretty much the full wastegated amount, instantly. The way it works is quite deceptive, even in on/off throttle driving through some winding roads. With 1000km of driving now behind the upgrade, it's fair to say that the performance of this cartridge is probably due mainly to the turbine - it does seem much freer flowing, but able to punch out 9.5 psi @ 2600. This is just running off the actuator too - no controllers or bleed valve. Here's the dyno results as promised, which obviously show what the thing does at full load/airflow, but don't convey well enough how it translates to flexible/easy power delivery. Boost curve has a knee shaped similar to the OE unit, only it goes up another 2psi. Mixtures have been kept rich at the very top end while we get a baseline to work with; still plenty to play with right through the mid range too. Hopefully the completely flat torque between 3400 - 4200rpm can be brought up slightly, although that may be a function of the cams and VCT. It may actually work to make for easier driving and good traction. Overlay of before/after is a useful tool that helped confirm the seat of the pants opinion. Circled areas shows a slight loss of power/torque. This particular upgrade won't likely win any bragging rights for dyno numbers, but it certainly feels alright to me. Bring on more boost and see how it goes! cheers

Ok, first dyno run was done with the stock RB20 spec wastegate running @ 9.5psi. There were some fuel map changes too, leaning it off between 4400-6400 slightly, as there had been a gross over-fuelling (10.5:1 over 6000). So to be fair, there is no direct comparison with the OE unit for full load airflow and power capabilities. I will have to post up my scanned dyno sheet later today with an overlay of before/after, but I'm still happy with the first effort - 242rwhp, or 180rwkW in metric. An overlay of the boost curves showed this cartridge had a boost transition point about 150 - 200rpm higher up the scale, but the "knee" as it ramps to full boost was the same shape. This probably points to a slightly heavier / larger diameter impeller assembly having a larger moment of intertia from the initial get-go, but also explains a similar feel in on-road response. The dyno session was to analyse the effect of hardware changes, and establish a mapping development plan for the higher boost settings. I'm confident that the 300hp / 225kW target will be met when we make the boost/fuelling/ignition changes next time. Until then, I've got a high flow with more power everywhere above 2500rpm and the same sort of transient boost response. The big teller is the extra torque which means I basically can use 500 less mid-range rpm to get the same sort of acceleration, or use the same rpm and accelerate harder. Very good in my books.

Re-use the original gasket after inspection. (I did have an OE spares gasket on stand-by in case the original was past it). Then use the copper spray gasket to coat the original gasket before installation. The idea is to provide a better chance to seal. It was advice from two mates who are experienced mechanics, and the cost of a can is not too great. I've got a series of photos of the whole job, going to do a how-to thread.

Top effort - you must be pleased. Should post your results in the stickies section. There seems to be a noticeable spike in the torque curve around 5000rpm - what is the cause there? And how does it drive on the road?