Dale FZ1

If the R32 s.2 and R33 s.1 are the same housings, do they share the same ID on the castings, and was this a side-by-side examination please? cheers

By the look of things, this is a high flow job, fitting a new core to existing housings?

That is correct. Borg Warner have made a few acquisitions; KKK being one of them. There is a bit of company history available if you do a Google search and get onto the Borg Warner turbos page. FWIW, most German marques to my (not extensively researched) knowledge have used KKK as OE fitment in the past. Porsche and Audi are prominent examples, having used them in both road and race/rally applications. If anyone makes the effort to find the design/spec of these KKR units - best of luck. They may be ok, but browsing this forum shows its not plain sailing to get the optimal match for your intended application. At least someone is making an effort to fill a price gap in the market. cheers

I'd be happy with a set of those secondhand. Evidently they must be JDM, and from a manual trans vehicle. Where from though?

HR33 = non turbo 4 door. RB20 engine ECR33 = turbo 2 door. RB25 engine

Try a search on this forum and also Google for split pulse turbine. It's done in an attempt to keep a large-ish (high flow capability) turbine that responds as a smaller one does. The idea is to maximise the pulsing effect that comes with the two cylinder groups. The firing order and layout of an I6 are evidently best suited to using this spec, but I think they do it with rotaries too. Do a search and see what you come up with. cheers

The OE manifold separates 123, 456 groups until the turbine inlet flange. Most likely an effort to stop the pulses from each group affecting each other. A true split pulse system should carry the separation into the turbine scroll. Check the pictures of a GT3271 at turbobygarrett.com as an example.

Its a good indicator of why the factory places heat shielding over the OE install. You should really look at getting something in place to avoid frying everything. Wiring, rubber hoses etc will all suffer. FWIW, the air gap between turbo/manifold/dump etc is what actually insulates and keeps the head from radiating past the shield itself.

Is there a problem with using poncams in a R33 spec RB25? I recall somewhere that the hydraulic lash adjusters couldn't keep up with the cam profiles, or something similar.

Just be a little careful. Remember you've now got something that is configured way differently from a std RB25. With the sort of turbo and intake mods you've got there will probably need to be a way different approach to both fuel and spark. IMO not good to take too much notice of the amount of variation that may go into an LS1 - dynamics of combustion in a 2 valve 700+ cc/cyl engine will be nothing like a 4 valve 415cc/cyl RB. I'd err on the side of caution and make the changes smaller as you have. As commented earlier, remember the ambient temps can/will have an impact on knock resistance.

Appreciate constructive criticism of efforts to improve the spark mapping. Remember I'm running base fuel maps and no increase in stock boost. Boost level in any event should have no bearing on the light load spark timing and knock. Before making any changes, first thing I did was create a spreadsheet of the base ignition map, and make detailed notes so I can revert to that setting without trouble. It also means I can make incremental and smooth changes to the map. I agree with the general approach Paulr33 adopted in trying to gain some improvement without putting the integrity of the engine into question through detonation - hence the use of ghost mapping to identify the map area where changes should be made. My intent has not been to achieve fuel consumption improvement - just cleaner, snappier engine response where it does most running. I know also that the best way to get fuel economy and engine response is to spend the $$ and have the AFR monitored. Just figured that if the fuelling is conservative then I can yield some improvements until the funds are available for a tune. Meanwhile I learn a bit more about the operation of the PFC. BTW, I've identified the conditions to achieve a 38 knock level and will make a small adjustment. Otherwise it's no more than 15. Check SK's comments about knock level and it appears neither number is likely to be significant. The rider on that comment is that a tuner wearing "knock headphones" is best qualified to comment. None of the above is about self justification, just explaining the intent and process. Small steps forward means progress. cheers

Probably a better chance of getting a 32 with mods to suit the purpose. Do a search and youwill find the RB20 enjoys a rev-happy reputation. RB25 has more low-end torque which will move you off the line easier and may lead to easier drift dependin on suspension setup. Again, do a search. I ended up with a ECR33 and am overall happy, but just missed out on a 33 GTS4, 5 grand cheaper. Down on power, but throw on a set of turbo spec brakes and it would be a hell of a car for the driver who doesn't put a premium on power over grip/handling. Natural aspiration is not a bad option.

I've made a few extra changes with now up to +6deg over stock in the N5L5:N8L8 area, and graduated ramping up/down in that area. Will post up the ghost trace to show what areas of the map are accessed in light cruise and light acceleration approaching but not getting into boost. Result is definitely a more eager response to the throttle and no obvious problems or noises. Max knock value showing is 37, running ambient temps about 28deg, inlet air temps 36, AFM max output 3800mV and injector duty about 42%. Fuel consumption is predictably good, probably because the injector duty cycle is down (most running is off boost for evaluating this parameter change). Provided there are no obvious running problems I will check it over another full tank this coming week.

I've made a few extra changes with now up to +6deg over stock in the N5L5:N8L8 area, and graduated ramping up/down in that area. Will post up the ghost trace to show what areas of the map are accessed in light cruise and light acceleration approaching but not getting into boost. Result is definitely a more eager response to the throttle and no obvious problems or noises. Max knock value showing is 37, running ambient temps about 28deg, inlet air temps 36, AFM max output 3800mV and injector duty about 42%.

Keep the thread on track please. GT2860RS on RB20. Quincy what A/R turbine housing did you choose, and comments on the actual delivery too please!! No doubt this will be a subject of interest to Discopotato03 and others.

Probably causing some confusion, the number doesn't equate to regular name brands. Garrett old-school stuff uses series names like T3, T4, T04. Mitsubishi and Trust use names like TD04, TD05, TD06. Remember they are only series of products, with a wide range of specs within each one. Try doing a search first, and ask your mate what he wants the thing to do. cheers

What is the CHRA or turbo part number off the ID plate please? I take it this is not a GT2860RS. cheers

What sort of functionality improvements do you get? Are they practical, useable features, or technical aspects that might chew up time and dyno $$ while you make tuning changes? Are the Datalogit guys in cruise and collect mode, or is there some reason they aren't contributing to solving problems their customers may have? FWIW, this forum has plenty of examples where members post questions that have been asked/answered many times, but they don't use the search function first. Not stirring, just looking for a view point. cheers

What sort of functionality improvements do you get? Are they practical, useable features, or technical aspects that might chew up time and dyno $$ while you make tuning changes? Are the Datalogit guys in cruise and collect mode, or is there some reason they aren't contributing to solving problems their customers may have? FWIW, this forum has plenty of examples where members post questions that have been asked/answered many times, but they don't use the search function first. Not stirring, just looking for a view point. cheers

Is the RB20 ex. manifold identical to a RB25? Condition, and still got it?

That's pretty much how I interpreted the function of that setting, hence the question. I've removed the AFM correction factor(s) and decided to bump timing up from N4L3 : N9L10 +3deg from L3-L8, +2deg L8-L10. Got that map area through ghost tracing off boost run. Short 15km run home again, difficult to tell driveability improvement, but max knock level 18. 36% inj duty, @3800 mV on the AFM. I think your approach is ok Paul, just exercise a bit of caution by making sure your A/F is safe. cheers

Still unclear about the AFM correction. Won't this simultaneously affect the tables for fuel as well? BTW there is possibly a slight driveability improvement with my adjustments listed from yesterday.

Use the search function for lots of previous threads. Go to turbobygarrrett.com for their specs, and try also hksusa, or hks japan. The CHRA for 2530 and GT28RS is very similar (minor spec update for the newer DiscoPotato compressor wheel), but only the HKS product has a T3 inlet / 6 bolt outlet turbine housing for straight bolt-up to RB series. If you've got an SR, then Garrett can be very helpful. Try surfing this board a little for lots of comments/experiences.

So you adjust the ignition timing by altering AFM correction values upwards? Does this affect fuelling too? FWIW, I've found the light load AFM output voltages go up to about 2400mV. Tried adjusting the first 4 voltage ranges, starting at +6%, tapered down to +1.5%, with the rest staying at the 100% mark. I need more than the short 15km run home to judge, but I think it felt more responsive with that change. Is there any PFC literature in English that addresses the settings as applicable to piston engines? I've got the RX7 stuff, but there are obvious differences. cheers Dale

Use the SEARCH function. Be sure of your aims, and try reading the literature from turbobygarrett.com.