Dale FZ1

Ignition coils and Splitfire This may not be the problem, but it is a better than even chance.

Probably the thing to recognise is that the anti-roll bars don't much affect a car's ride/handling compromise in a straight line. It's the dynamics of lateral weight transfer when changing direction (turning) that they impact on quite significantly. Adjustable bars can give you the option of quickly altering the dynamics, say if you wanted to induce specific characteristics for drift or circuit work. For handling upgrades there seems to be two schools of thought: big bars; and high-rate springs. Anti-roll bars at least allow you to retain ride quality and power-down because the wheels can maintain closer contact with the ground imperfections rather than the chatter that can occur with rock hard springs. Adjustable bars allow you to mimic the effect of installing different size (diameter) bars by changing the leverage rate between the bar and chassis. Using them just gives you the option of making the car respond differently, quickly. Anti-roll bars are actually a laterally mounted torsion bar (spring). Because they store and then release engergy, they impact on the RATE of lateral weight transfer and hence the rate of suspension movement, they control the rate of camber change that a given wheel experiences in that cornering moment. So yes, bars will not affect your static suspension settings - but in the dynamic environment they will. That is partly how changing their sizes brings about handling differences.

I have seen Nengun's Trust prices too, which I thought looked very good. Running an RB25, I think (not sure) the TD-06 is the better option, while the TD-05 is a better RB20 fitment. This would be for light-tune moderate powerups retaining factory-like boost thresholds. My searching skills haven't really found any solid advice on exactly which spec Trust turbo suits which application and torque characteristics. There seems to be a range of different housing and wheel trim variations within each model turbo. Also, is anybody aware whether Trust turbos come with oil and coolant lines as HKS do? I haven't yet done any forum searches, but are there experiences/opinions about Trust turbos, especially matching them to the engine and whether they are a bolt-on replacement?

Can you share the cam specs, and was the mod actually worthwhile in terms of seat of the pants and $$ spent?

Thanks for the comments, I will check out the Ferodo a bit closer. Who makes RB74? Just as a side issue on the noise, nedb, did you service/inspect the calipers and mounting surfaces of the rotors when installing the pads? This might be a source of the squeal. cheers

Top Stuff. Thanks Linton, you've made it much easier to understand, using plain English. I'm a big believer in car speed from chassis tuning, and this seems to be one of the easier and cheaper options to improving the Skyline - provided you can live with some of the original NVH refinements being removed. cheers

Have you already got the fronts, just waiting to go in? If I get any info about different pad compounds availability I will post back in this thread.

The gut feeling is that it has to be a good thing, just haven't seen any pics of the job. I must have balls-ed up how the assembly goes together - thought there may be an upper and lower bush for each mounting point? As far as where the bushes are installed, can you be more specific please?

Here's something that I will be pursuing after doing plenty of research, pricing of "name" brands, and watching performances at a Morgan Park Raceway (Warwick Qld) meeting. TRW produce pads branded as Lucas, primarily in the Euro market so I'm told. Pricewise they are very sharp, and the pad materials are disc friendly (read fairly soft and dust heavy) but extremely heat resistant if bedded properly. To be fair they're probably not directly comparable with some of the high $$$ pads that some guys and girls go for (EBC, Pagid), but the overall value for occasional track use means you could buy and consume a few sets before spending the same. Seeing the results at the race meeting, a couple of guys running Lucas pads finished their sessions with smoke wafting from the brake assembly but reports of consistent, strong retardation. Evidently they ran better with a couple of sessions behind them. I'd like to hear of any experiences with this brand, but plan on sourcing a set for my s.1 R33

Having done the forum search, I'm still not much more enlightened about the value of either urethane or alloy cradle bushes. It is evident that the harder materials will transmit more vibrations, and they will also locate the whole cradle assembly more "tightly" to the chassis, but beyond this is where I'm lost. Draggers talk about a traction setting which is no good for drifters, while there isn't a lot said about the benefit for track work. I can understand that under torque loadings the whole assembly should rock if the bushes are compliant, but how do the harder bushes prevent (or encourage) squat? Is it the case that you do not replace all the bushes depending on the desired handling outcome? Do pineapples produce good results for circuit work?

Hi Alan I've got to concur. Top site and well run. I'm new to this board and have spent a number of hours digesting the comments and information sharing that real enthusiasts should be prepared to do. Like most owners I am slowly putting together my mods, to the the car performing the way I want. Without the efforts of the many owners here, I'm sure it would be easy to go up the wrong path. cheers

My R33 missed like a pig in the same rev band - something like wet ignition - until I taped the coils. Went fine afterwards (no missing), but the same range feels like a big flat spot. Sensation is like you are hard on the throttle and applying the brakes simultaneously. The insulation tape might stop the misses, but the coils may be failing internally. Just a thought.