BOoStEr

ROFL, not mine to give.

As an ex-owner of an R30 hatch I can sympathise with your loss. The first time my car was broken into they smashed the dash trying to get the CD player out. The next time they took the whole bl**dy car and wrote it off.

Has anyone heard of a problem with these gears splitting? Is the oil-pump drive different in the R33 motor ?

The failure in this case seems to be due to the drive gear cracking in the corner of the flats.

The original engine died due to oil-pump failure. Is this an unusual occurrence? Any idea what might have caused it as the history of the vehicle is unknown?

I posted a similar thread here a few months ago and didn't get a reply. I've done a bit of checking by looking at speaker options and by removing the kick panels to see how much room is available. There is a lot more room around the pedals in american cars as they are left-hand drive so it's not as easy in right-hand drive cars. Because there is very little spare room behind the kickpanels I decided my best option was to use a 2.5"-3" dome midrange with a sealed back-chamber such as Dynaudio MD140-2s or Morel MR55s and a tweeter in the kick panels as they dont need any space behind them and dont need to sealed to avoid back-wave cancellation. These speakers are quite expensive but by the time you factor in the savings of a simpler installation they will pay for the difference in price themselves.

I need to know if this is a straight swap. If I need to change the ecu is the loom the same? Is there any thing else to be considered?

I think the mechanic was just quoting his hourly rate not the price of the job. Most workshops have a minimum charge though which also covers the paperwork etc.

My oil pressure dropped to near zero on the gauge. I had to replace the sender with the genuine part through the Nissan dealer. It was just under $200. Now it's perfect Phew!

What colour is the dial of the R32 speedo? If it's blue is it bright blue or the factory dark blue?

I think the MRV F505 only makes 4 x 100 Watts into 2ohms @ 14.4 volts and 4 x 50 WRMS into 4ohms @ 12 volts so it should be perfect for good 75 Watt speakers. If your splits are distorting when you turn it up you may just need to reduce the gain a bit. What did you set your high pass filter at? If you aren't using it or it's set to low it will distort more easily. I'm not familiar with all the MRV F505's features but I think there is an input level switch. If your H/U has less than 4volt preouts set it to nom. If it has 4Volt preouts set it to 4V . It will also have a HP/LP filter switch for front and rear channels. Set to HP for the splits. Seperate crossover point adjustment for front and rear. Set at about 80Hz to protect the splits from subbass. Front and rear gain controls. To set these turn off all other channels except the splits, turn the front gain all the way down, play a track you know well preferably one that is recorded loudly and has vocals, turn it up until you notice the first little bit of distortion (harshness) then back it off a level on the H/U, then increase the gain (clock wise) until you get the volume you require. Of course if it starts to distort when doing this back it off until it sounds good. Balance the gains on all your amplified channels to suit the splits and your system should sound it's best. Good luck.

I replaced my timing belt only when I bought my car (70,000km) because you can't be sure the odometer is genuine. I didn't do seals, bearing or waterpump because of the extra cost of parts plus they appeared O.K. I only did the belt because it destroys the engine if it breaks. However, if I had to pay to have the belt done I would do the seals, bearings and waterpump at the same time because it is only a little more labour than the belt alone. It's all a part of the same job really.

Gester I'm still undecided as to whether to put the sub behind the seat or in the wheelwell. I don't see it being too difficult to go behind the seat once you've relocated the battery though. I'm still toying with the idea of facing it foward through the arm rest hole but if I do this I can only fit one 10". If i face it backwards I can fit 2 x 12"s easily.

Frosty Have you had your sub installed yet? What did you do about the little tower thingy in the middle of the wheelwell?

IMO $250 - $300 depending on condition

I think it could be the rear speaker amplifier. Is it located in the centre below the parcel shelf? Should have eleven wires if it's the same as mine though.

Has anybody installed kickpanel pods in their R32. If so was it difficult? Are there many wires or component to shift? Did you need to move the pedals? How many litres can you fit?

Are the R32 front door speakers mounted on plastic pods? With the 6x4" or the 6" is it just the pod that is different or is the hole in the door panel different also? What would be the maximum mounting depth speaker I could fit behind the stock doortrim? What is the actual diameter of the hole to mount the 6" speaker?130mm?, 145mm?

Some alarm systems have a system over-ride wire that runs out of the black box so if there is a malfunction all you have to do is earth it and it bypasses all the immobilisers etc. Some installers wire it up to a hidden switch, others just leave it disconnected. Personally I think they are a security risk.

The air regulator is a valve that allows additional air into the inlet manifold to lift the idle speed when the motor is cold. As the motor warms up an electric heater warms a bi-metallic strip that closes the valve so it slowly lowers the idle speed. To see if it is functioning correctly, with the motor cold, pull the hoses off it and make sure you can blow through it. You could check that it has closed properly when the motor is warm.

GTS-t VSPEC My timing light needs a pickup on no.1 pluglead. How can I use this timing light on my R32 GTS-t? How much advance should I run on my stock motor?

blind_elk I think the device you are refering to is the air regulator. I don't think R32s or R31s for that matter have cold start valves. The air regulator could cause WazR32GTSt's problem though.

Just looking at the headlight wiring on my R32. It sure looks like it could benefit from some relays and thicker wires. I doubt it would be safe to increase bulb wattage without doing so. If you run a heavy wire from the battery to the relay don't forget to put in a fuse or circuit breaker. It shouldn't be too hard to wire the lights to work together and upgrade the wiring at the same time. It should make a huge difference.

JimX, I think you will have trouble facing it any way except straight up. I have a 42L esky that is 15" high and my R32 bootlid won't close on it. R33 boots might be a bit higher but it would still be a tight fit. If you dont mind losing your spare tyre you could build it into the tyre well and put in a false floor. You could also mount your amps under the false floor on either side for a tidy install look.

I think it said in the article that they got 40 litres in the wheel well. They must have raised the floor at least 50mm. I don't know how deep the well is in a 33 but it's only 130mm deep in my 32. Most subs are deeper than that. I don't think they would cut the well though.