BOoStEr

Has anyone seen the R33 in the latest H.P.I. mag. It has a sweet install with two tens in the spare tyre well. It's won a SQ award and makes 130 dB plus. Looks awesome as well.

Do you need to be able to register it or do you want it to race? Do you need bolt ons or just the bare shell? The reason I ask is because an import wrecker in Bris. brings in and strips intact cars but if you need too many bolt ons they want too much money for them. They probably would sell a bare shell fairly cheaply but you can't get them regoed.

MrMayhem, Did you get my P.M.? Price for the three trims? Please.

If the injector is leaking to the outside as I think DarKZer0 is saying then it has to be replaced. If it's just leaking down then have the lot cleaned and tested. That's probably a good idea if you fit a secondhand one from an import wrecker anyway. No need to fit GTR injectors to an atmo.

The Kefs are high passed at 80Hz using the 12db/ octave filter on the amp. BTW this system isn't in my Skyline, it's in my daily driver but I'm seriously thinking about pinching the Kefs and the MRV1000 (to run the sub) for the 'line. The Kef passive crossover is pretty inefficient due to its high element count. It also has a device like a light bulb for tweeter protection. Just as the Kefs start to get loud this bulb glows too brightly. Do you think this is a sign of the amp clipping or simply delivering too much power? Smart plan?...hmm ... Feels more like a dilemma.

BigDatto, The reason I'm asking about Peerless mids and tweeters is because my current Kef drivers seem very inefficient. I've been driving the splits passive with 100 WRMS a side and they dont get very loud. I want run to them active but I only have 4x40 WRMS and 4x30 WRMS amps spare. I doubt these could drive the Kefs adequately so maybe I need some more powerful amps or more efficient speakers.

I think if you have either the master or valet key only the other key can be cut from it because they have the same profile but are cut from a different blank.

BigDatto Is the JMLab tweeter part of the focal range? If so what is the model number? eg TN45? Or are they available from component suppliers? The Peerless RDC2000 , DT80 and 53NDT all seem to have limited mounting options. Have you auditioned any of these? Do you think these drivers would sound good using an Alpine DREA500 active crossover? Are Peerless midwoofers efficient enough to run well on 40 WRMS? as I already have an Alpine MRV400 4x40 WRMS to run active front splits. Is there anyone else out there using Peerless subs or speakers? I would love to audition some.

Zman If you're anywhere near Brisbane try Cresta

The std '81 MR30 makes 102 KWs at the flywheel. Good extractors and exhaust may be worth 20 KWs on this car. The cold air ducting about 3 KWs. You can get about 4 KW with thermo fans but my car ran a little hot with the A/c on. To get more than 130 KWs from this motor is difficult and expensive due to the old computer and the restrictive inlet manifold. You could probably pay for an RB20DET conversion (160KW) with the money it would cost to get 140 KWs from the L24. I made the cold air ducting myself with 65mm stormwater pipe and angle fittings. It cost less than $20 but was a bit of messing around. At about $100 the K&N panel filter might not be worth it for 1-2 KWs. Just use a std paper filter. A heathy stock dizzy and coil have a fairly high output and don't need upgrading yet. It's hard to get a significant gain from the cam without stuffing up the idle because the computer can't compensate for the loss of inlet vacuum so it runs lean and misses. If I were you I'd just make sure the std motor is in good condition, fit some extractors and save up for that bigger project.

Thanks for the tip. Interesting site. I had heard of peerless in U.S. caraudio mags but I didn't know you could get them here. Is your sub the XLS 308 SWR? Do you know how the mids and tweets rate against say... Focals, Bostons, Kefs etc?

hoon69 If your Skyline is an MR30 with the L24E engine a good set of extractors and a 2.25" sports exhaust (get rid of left to right tail pipe extention) will help a lot. Get rid of the airfilter cross-pipe and duct cold air through the radiator support panel into the top of the airbox and replace the std filter with a K&N panel filter or similar. Get good plugs and leads and make sure the distributor is in good condition. Beyond this further mods require more money than you should probably spend on this motor. The L-jetronic computer is the old analog type and is very inflexible.It requires electronic tricks to accomodate any mods.if you really want to make good power out of this motor you will need a programmable ecu. Then you could make a custom inlet manifold, do some headwork, cam, and raise the compression. An L28E bolts straight in and looks stock and has another 360ccs. how far do you want to go?

Sorry BigDatto you asked how much? CD8061 rrp $1999 CD8051 rrp $1199 CD8441 rrp $899 was $999 Sorry the salesman didn't write the price of the entry level units in my brochure.

Outstanding headunits. I just bought an CD8051, it doesn't have all the features of the CD8061 but it still has the 8 Volt preout and the NOB remote control. The main reason I chose the Eclipse over other brand headunits of similar price is that they have a memory buffer so they don't skip on bumps and also because the laser is more powerful and only needs half the voltage of other brands so it can last twice as long. Oh... I nearly forgot to mention several reviews have placed the CD8061 as among the best S.Q. headunits in the world.

Stang, It's too much trouble to fit the jap independent rear end to the aussie R31 as these all had Borg Warner solid axle rear ends like the VL. I've heard people say they will try but I've never seen it done. If drifting was the only type of driving ever used then locked might be a cheap way out but a good LSD is always worth the extra money. A good diff place should be able to recommend some tough internals with LSD for stock aussie diff housing.Make sure you get lower than stock ratio(3.7:1) if you want to drift eg. 4.1:1. Maybe we should apologise to hoon69 for 'jacking his thread.

MrMayhem. Which one is missing.

bump.

bump.

Does anyone have an opinion as to what the best 10"subwoofer is? I intend to drive it with an Alpine MRV1000 for now until I can afford something better. I prefer my bass tight and accurate without too much overhang so i guess it would need to perform best in a sealed box. I've measured the space where I would like to place the box and I can fit a box of 28-40 litres. If someone knows of a sub that sounds good in a ported box this size I'm listening. Subs I have cosidered so far- Boston Acoustics pro Soundstream Exact Focal polyglass Kicker solobaric L7 2ohm DVC Thank you in advance for caring.

Stang You don't want a locked diff on the street. They are only at their best on the dragstrip or on a dirt track. If they are done properly they are stronger but suffer a lot more stresses on corners. If you are worried about the aussie diffs you could always buy a jap HR31 instead and get IRS and LSD.They have a tougher diff and are usually a bit cheaper than an aussie GTS but they only come as coupe or 4door pillarless.

TIMMMAYYY Is the R31 wagon Brains' car that is occassionally featured in tech articles in Zoom magazine. Issue #52 shows how he fitted the 'cooler.

Stang, I'd be guessing a bit as prices vary a bit from place to place. Value dependant upon condition moreso than age. A series3 may bring $1000 or so more than an early model in the same condition. GX,GXE $2000-$5000 Silhouette,Ti $3000-$7000 GTS1 $7000-$11000 (only 200 made) Lots of fakes GTS2 $8000-$12000 (only 200 made) " " " Genuine GTSs have a numbered badge on the glovebox. As a collectors vehicle a vendor may feel justified holding out for a higher price for an exceptional GTS. darkhalf, S.S. is stainless steel. I'd bet the SVD extractors had more R & D than the hurricanes.

$50

MIKGTR as R31Heaven said HR31 GTS-t, GTS-x struts and brakes interchange with aussie GTS. SVD claimed to source them from Nismo. They had bilstein internals. Most jap R31 struts I've seen have electric ride-control internals.

blind_elk Have you changed the crossmember yourself or seen it done? Does the R31 crossmember clear the R30 steering drag link? I have seen one done but it was converted to R31 rack and pinion. you may also need a custom swaybar to clear the sump.