BOoStEr

Stang, BOoStEr here. Stock RB30 powered R31s made 118 KWs ,GTS1s 130 KWs, GTS2s 140 KWs The GTSs had nice S.S. extractors, exhaust, cam, head and ecu mods. I have an RB30 ecu with a Chiptorque programmable chip in it. It is currently programmed to suit Chiptorque spec. stage 3 camshaft , O/size throttlebody, H.M. headers and 2.25" sports exhaust. These mods are good for 140 KWs+.I might sell these parts minus the exhaust (to suit RB30 VL). Problems I,ve encountered in aussie R31s--- noisy diffs (premature gear wear),crank angle sensor (usually dirty connector plugs or degree wheel in distributor). Any questions just P.M. me or post here.

Maybe I shouldn't bring this thread back from the dead but I was wondering how NisMojo is going with his R30 mods. I've spent 5 years modding an R30 and learned a lot along the way. I also have my stolen recovery wreck sitting in a shed.... but you're in tassie. Anyway if you have any questions P.M. me or post here.

Hi hoon69 I own an '84 R30 hatchback. I modded this car with a passion for 5 years. Then a couple of years ago some scumbags decided it was their turn, came back from a swim ..... empty space. Sh_t and the new tyres were still on my account. Got a call from the cops 3 days later. Cars a write-off, nose first into a drain. The wreck has sat in a shed since then waiting for me to do something. As I've recently bought an R32 GTS-t I don't know if I should wreck it, sell it complete or transfer all the good bits to an R30 sedan that I bought for that purpose. Mods include L28 2753cc P90 head engine with hi-lift cam heavy-duty valve springs, cold air induction, custom extractors, S.S. 2.25" exhaust, DYI quickshift, altered G/box ratios, R200 diff, O/size half shafts, DR30, front disc and calipers, konis all round, -40mm kings springs (front), nolathane bushes, revised lower arm mount points, adj. castor rods, F & R strut braces, nismo front seats, $5K stereo with 400 hour self install, round tail-lights, plus dozens of nice touches and reconditioned parts. It was a good ride while it lasted. If you are interested in the car or just want info on specific mods please P.M. me or post here.

Beg to differ eliter33. Most R32s I've seen have cylindrical amp under the centre of the parcel shelf. Mines a clarion. It has 11 small gauge wires to a single plug, 4 of which match the colours of the wires going to the rear speakers. I assume the other wires are 4 high level inputs, 12V, earth, remote.

R32s don't have these side repeater indicators in japan. Some compliers fit them some don't. they source them from different cars so it's hard to say wher yours come from without seeing them. Post a pic if you can. Someone will recognise them. Hope this helps.

If you look at the cabin of a skyline as a compartment of a certain volume, how is it fundamentally different to the cabin of a hatch of similar volume? Apart from the limited loading options of course. Wouldn't aiming a sub through the armrest of a skyline (sealed through the metal plate) perform similar to a forward facing sub at back of a mid-sized hatch?

Just looking at my R32 it seems logical to mount a sub in a sealed box through the plate behind the back seat.(see my posts #18 & #22 " Where's the bass? " this forum). I've run this idea past a few installers and most have recommended something else for one reason or another. One guy quoted a couple of articles on bass loading in CSA magazine. I found these articles (issues #5 & #9) and I must say that in these tests the forward facing mounting position had the lowest SPL and very uneven frequency response. The main difference between my idea and their setup is that my cabin will be sealed from the boot and their's fires through an open ski-port.

If it's a round diecast thing it's the audio amplifier.Did you check for 12V at the fuse when the radio is on?

Thanks for your reply Blind_elk. I looked up my car in a N.Z. NGK book. before 8/91 PFR5A-11, after 8/91 PFR6A-11. Do you know why they changed heat range? What is the difference between PFR6A-11 and PFR6B-11? Book said that PFR6G-11 has a racing type end construction. Would this plug have a downside?

I need door trims to suit R32 4door in as good a condition as possible. Would like full set but will buy drivers door seperately.

What are the best sparkplugs for an '89 GTS-t running stockish boost but driven fairly hard on occasions? Are NGK iridium plugs the go? Heat range?

Years ago, in an old motor mag, I read an article announcing the release in japan of a limited production Skyline sedan by Autech powered by an N/A Rb26de tuned to within an inch of it's life.Has anyone here ever encountered such a beast?

I'd like some too. Did they come out as a factory option for the 4 door? I don't think I'd use cheapo fibreglass ones.

Does anyone know what is a fair price for a used 260-300kph speedo for R32? I found one at an import wreckers but they won't separate it from the cluster. How much should I pay?

bump.

stock throttle body no CAS? TPS maybe.

If I cut a 230mm hole in the centre of the metal plate and sandwich the plate between the sub and the box (see post #18) using 6mm screws and T nuts the car's structural integrity won't be comprimised at all. Legal? Well..... N.S.W. blueslip inspector said he wouldn't have a problem with it but if I wanted to be 100% sure I could get it engineered.

I'm having trouble with mine also. It fluctuates in brightness all the time. Sometimes I can't read it at all. Other times only some segments of the display light up. I'm going to fit a new CD player soon so while I have the centre console apart I might see if i can find a fix for it.

Id like to buy an aftermarket speedo (260-300kph) to suit R32GTS-t . Prefer dark blue dial to match other gauges.

Is it stainless or mild steel? Polished? How does it sound?

My R32 had dodgy low beam when I got it. First the left would go out then the right. Turned out to be the switch. Removed switch as SupaFly Skyline described after I found the screw hidden by the under-dash turbo-timer. After gently prising open the switch I cleaned the burnt looking residue from the contacts with fine wet and dry sandpaper and sprayed them with contact cleaner. Then I cleaned and lubricated the sprung detents. While the switch was open I replaced the blown indicator bulb inside (fiddly). Back together it works perfectly. No more problems X (fingers crossed).

When I started my R32 after a week it seemed to crank against some extra load.When it started there was a loud belt scream and the hicas light was on. After about 30 seconds the noise stopped and light went out. Maybe power steer pump was siezed or perhaps a valve or something was stuck in that complicated looking hydraulic gear near the rhs chassis rail. Any ideas?

I replaced mine a couple of months ago. When I looked up Rb20det in the Dayco catalogue there wasn't a listing so I counted the teeth on old belt and looked it up by tooth number and width. There was one but it didn't have the correct tooth profile. Bought mine from local Nissan dealer for about $90. Hope nobody has used the Dayco belt.

I own an R32.Im thinking of cutting a hole in the plate to fit a 10"sub, then screw an 18mm sheet of mdf to the back of it. to this I'll screw a small sealed box to suit the sub. This will fire thru the armrest hole. Might work in a 33 too if you move the battery.