datsqik

Can you give me the serial number so i can determine what board is in it.

Rev limiter is at 9250 and shift lite was at 8500 but he wasnt catching it in time and banging the limiter in every gear. Standard GTR diff ratios.

Yeh 4th just before the line.

The GTR runs a 26/30 with Nitto I beam rods, Mahle pistons, Supertech valve train with Tomei cams. Has an EMS ecu with M&W cdi and innovate data logger on methanol. It uses a Jatco 4speed auto with a TCE converter. Turbo is a borgwarner rated to 1200hp but we arent pushing it yet. Suspension is hks prodrag and has custom en26 axles. Slicks are 26by10by15. The 120y has a commodore v6 with mechanical fuel injection and a t04z turbo on around 20psi. Pretty sure he runs a glide. The car was built to eventually index racing in one of the super stock classes which is why he uses a 2 valve motor with mechanical fuel injection. He will eventually destroke it a bit which should give him a decent weight break and a doable index.

Of the GTR or the 120y?

Yeh Grant spent most of the day working on the arse end trying to tame the beast down off the line. The last pass he did the car launched much flatter and straighter so he was able to keep his foot into it and ran a 8.9. The 120y will definately go into the deep 8's with some more boost and taller gearing.

We took Daves GTR out for a test and tune day yesterday and ended up with a 9.4 with something like 137mph. The first run the fuse for the injectors popped as he launched (fuse was to small). Second run he knock it into neutral instead of second (thank god for rev limiters). The third run was the 9.4 but a lot of time was spent on the limiter (need to lower the shift lite rpm). Unfortunately it popped the camshaft seal out on that pass and oil ended up everywhere so rather than fixing the seal and cleaning the oil off only to have it run out from under the car somewhere and onto the tyres we called it a day. We were hoping for some more passes to try to get the car where it should be as it has a lot more in it yet.

You can order Pauter rods with a centre oil hole to the wrist pin. It seems like a bit of a problem with dry sump setups starving the little end of oil. They reckon you should run 10-12hg vacuum as anymore tends to starve the little end. I have seen a couple of rb's with the rod bush on its way out but these were using the thin wall pins that come with the CP pistons. I reckon these pins flex quite a bit as the bushes in these rods were only spreading out on the edges of the rods with at least 50% of the centre of the bush still having the hone marks. There was no evidence of detonation in these engines, nothing in the combustion chamber or on the pistons or the plugs, the pistons skirts were good which is usually a dead give away with heavy detonation, bigend bearings were good on both sides.

Darton do sleeves for the 30 which is a bit longer than the 26 sleeves.

I dont think that sleeving would strengthen the block at all but it does strengthen the cylinder itself as the darton sleeves are much higher quality than the standard cast bore.

If a block is to be bored/honed using a torque plate or not then hardblok should be used before hand and same goes for align honing of the crank tunnel. If sleeving a 30 block I would probably fit the sleeves first then use some hardblok between the cylinders with the engine on its side with the welsh plugs out. Do one side then the other after the first side is hard enough to turn the block on its other side. The reason I do this is that the standard cylinders end up fairly thin towards the top of the block between the cylinders when machining to suit the sleeves and in some spots can break thru to the water jacket. By adding some hardblok in these areas can add some strength back into the block. Once that is done you can fit the welsh plugs back in and do a normal short fill or a full fill for an all out drag engine. You can then bore/hone the sleeves and deck the block etc.

I leave all the welsh plugs in as you will at least need to fill to the top of the lower welsh plugs. I usually replace them all with new stainless plugs after I have hot tanked the block before I hardblok them. You can buy hardblok as either a half fill (usually 2 small bags but sometimes 1 big bag) or you can buy it as full fill which is 2 large bags. Once the block is clean and welsh plugs in place the block needs to be upright and level preferably on an engine stand. Mix the hardblok to manufacturers recommendations in small batches as it goes off fairly quickly. I prefer to do the job with 2 people using a small funnel and some wire to help get it thru the funnel and then level it out at the bottom of the block. I just pour some down a water gallery at each cylinder then work it around with the wire. I just work my way around the block. Its best to bore/hone and deck the block a few days after it has set.

Ive filled them with harblok to the top of the lower welsh plugs (about 30mm from the bottom) without any over heating problems. Ive just done another to 15mm from the top which also has darton sleeves but thats a drag only car on meth.

I fitted some Nitto rods in a 30 last week and they definately look strong. Slightly heavier than the Argos though. The argos use a groove in the side to allow some oil to get thrown in the direction of the piston and the Pauter rods use 2 grooves in the side for the same thing but they can also be ordered with a oil hole right thru the rod to the pin. I personally think the Nitto rods are one of the best on the market and would recommend them to anyone building a tough rb30. The little end on these is undersized so they can be honed to suit the pin being used unlike some rods on the market that are to loose right from the word go.

Congrates on the times mate awesome work, cant wait to get our auto gtr back out. Hopefully a couple of weeks and we will be back out.