datsqik

Congrats to Paul and Mark, a great weekends racing, well worth the trip over from Perth to watch and meet up. Maybe next year we can drag a couple of cars over if all goes well. Ive got a few vids i'll post up when i get back to perth but they are only from a crap camera.

Just picked up a return airfare to brizzy for my birthday so at least i get to watch the jamboree. Maybe next year I can bring the mighty 1600 over. It better not rain!!

Those last couple of runs were over 1000

Hopefully we dont have any converter problems. I have seen similar deisigned converters holding more power. We are using a 9 1/2" outside with 8 1/2" inside and have been able to squeeze a mechanical diode in there. From what limited time we have had the converter in it feels fairly tight and is designed to hold 1200hp at 6000rpm. Only time will tell from here on in.

Hopefully we dont run into to much trouble using the RE4R03a box but we do realise that we may have to replace one or more of the shafts with vasco items. Its no point replacing all the shafts with $600 a pop vasco items if the stock shafts (re-heat treated) do the job. In most cases ive seen stock shafts that have been softened, rehardened and cryoed have stood up better than 4340 items as in most cases these dont get hardened or get incorrectly hardened. Another thing that will effect the shafts besides engine torque and the weight of the car is the way in which the valve body and transbrake is designed and operates and the line pressure used. Ive seen one particular 4n71b box with so called hituff shafts crap themselves whilst the same type of box with re-hardened shafts last for years in another vl that had a lot more hp and also ran slicks. I have had a few RE4R01a built by bms using re-hardened shafts (skyline input,subaru tall 1st, and mazda output) and havent had any breakage problems but these are used in fairly light cars like a Datsun 200b that weighs around 1000kg and runs 10.7 with a 1.4 60ft which has done around 100 passes. Before rigoli went rwd in his subaru they also used the RE4R01a box with a glide sized output shaft (the subaru version uses a smaller output shaft) that ran like 8.3 at 160 odd. Steve has said that any shaft problems and he will jump straight on a plane and go get 10 vasco shafts made (10 is min order). We believe these RE4R03a boxes have great potential to be used as either a drag box in transbrake form or as a street box in reverse braking form. Setup with a good converter these boxes are great in a streeter as they can reduce lag and make the most of the huge midrange torque that turbocharged cars have to offer. We all now how weak a stocky gtr box is and what it can cost to replace these with something stronger. I think more guys need to go for a drive in a well setup auto in a turbocharged car.

From what little playing around we got to do indoors the converter seems fairly tight but I would imagine it has to be reasonably tight to hold over 1000hp to 6000rpm. I'd say we'll have to get the gas in fairly earlier to get it right up on the converter quick enough for racing. I dont really want to get it in to early if you no what i mean as it makes massive torque quite early. May even have to look at doing it progessively, like 50 in at 3k the full 200 in at like 4500. We'll just have to see when we do a bit more playing in a fortnight.

I have found the resistor plugs less likely to breakdown.

Nismo make some 60mm studs (40222-R8025) for the rear and some 60mm (40222-R8045) for the front

I was under the impression that ANDRA requires a spool be used. Are the r33 halfshafts 31 spline and the r32 29 spline. From what ive seen they all have 31 spline input shafts into the diff but just wanted to check that the r33 has larger 31 spline halfshaft.

I fitted a transbraked gearbox to a 30 year old car and the first time I let go of that button 30 years worth of dust came out from under the dash. I actually thought I had a fire under the dash.

Ha ha your the second person to pick that up. They are actually the front tyres just put on to see what they looked like.

Speaking of batteries has anyone had any luck with these pulse batteries as they seem fairly cheap. http://www.pulsehyper.com.au/phb400.htm

There are a lot of cheaper places around than eric's. Compare: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CP-Pistons-...16513QQtcZphoto http://www.frsport.com/CP-SC7310-Forged-Al...5-1_p_8501.html I have bought pistons from frsports on a weekend and they have been on my doorstep thursday morning

I think you'll find the diff is the r200 long nose like the z31 300zx or jap r31's or some s12's and some r30's not the short nose silvia/skyline style diff. I have seen some of these 200z's with 4.4:1 lsd's which is the same as the jap r31. Pretty sure the s12 has the 3.9 lsd and the oz 300z seems to have a 3.54 open. Most of the cv shafts are interchangable thru these models except the 3.54 version need the input stubs swaped to the other side to use in a 4.4 diff. All of these lsd's are pretty weak as they have only one inner lug friction per side taking all the load. If you take the shims from either side and add 2 more inner lug friction disks to each side then they become 3 times stronger and also lock up much harder. This is basically what nismo use.

check all your earths.

Yes they do.

Ring rotomotion they should have his number. He works from home making axles.

Terry Stacy

Last time I was up at BDG he had 3 stage pumps on special for something like $1300.

Yeh drag sr. Heres a pic in the bay. and some links to the build and running. http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=181371 http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=181482 http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=181093 http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=180721

I'm also building a 1000hp 30/26 and using a jun pump. Would have love to have used a full dry sump setup but you have to stop somewhere. We will just have to see how it goes I guess. I dont think it is as much of an issue on a drag car as it is on a circuit car especially with a 30 bottom end with the rpm kept down. I have fitted a vacuum pump to this to help keep blow by to a minimum. I'm also building a pretty wild sr20 and would have loved to have done a drysump like the one in the pic.

From what I've seen of Clints oil problem is that it seems to get worse when higher boost/hp is used so it probably indicates that a crack is opening up when things get hotter or more stressed. It gets oil into the water but not the other way around and it has done it with 2 different blocks. The head gaskets seem to be sealing. The head has been pressure tested. The coolant system has been pressure tested. The only other area I can think of where the water and oil are close is in the turbo. So you might have to get the turbos pressure tested but if its only doing it when things get hot then it might not show up. The same goes for the head, it might not show up until it gets very hot.