datsqik

Just buy another box it will be cheaper. Most places will charge around $1000 to open, replace the bearings and assemble. If you must get it rebuilt then mandurah automatics have built them in the past or you could take it up to floody in perth as he does most of the ppg conversions for these boxes.

You'll find most heads are thin in that area. I use some internal calipers and measure as i go. The 26 ports are quite small for the valve head size. I usually aim for a port size of 80-85% of the valve head size.

Try Northline Freight

I have seen and heard of many rb26 blocks that crack both internally and or externally which is the reason most people look for the stronger N1 blocks. Ive only used the Hardblok product and usually leave it for a week before machining but they say it can be used after 24 hours. As far as the rb30 blocks are concerned they dont seem to suffer from the same problem but I have heard of them cracking between 5 and 6 under extreme loads. Ive seen some guys make up a plate that bolts toward the rear of the block for added strength. I would imagine that when the rb30 block is used with a rb26 sump and adapter plate that this would add some strength to that area anyway. Ive just done a 30 block for a gtr which should push over 1000hp so I added a 1/2 fill of Hardblok for a bit more security. Being an all out drag car cooling shouldnt be an issue.

Try this guy. He is usually prompt and his gear is reasonably priced. http://www.tuffcarparts.com/store/index.ph...'Tyres'

You can bore a block 24hours after using Hardblok and use it straight after that. The 1/4 fill block runs low 11 and is daily driven. It was mainly done to stop oil getting into the water not for overall strength like the 1/2 and 3/4 fill blocks.

Going on other setup somewhere in the low 600rwhp is probably achievable but with the stroker and large a/r turbine housing you'll probably do it on less boost than what others have used. I've seen a vq30det with a t04z on meth on an engine dyno max out with 750hp with boost starting to taper off late in the rev range which pretty much indicates the turbo was maxed out.

A 1/4 fill is pretty much the bottom of the welsh plugs. The main reason we did this is that we found that some blocks were cracking internally between 3 and 4 where an oil gallery runs from one side of the block to the other causing oil to mix into the water.

Ive done a few rb blocks using Hardblok which is designed to have the same expansion rates as cast iron and is very permanent. Ive done 1/4 fills and 1/2 fills. The 1/4 fills seem fine on the street as far as cooling is concerned. The 1/2 fills have been done for the drags so I have no idea how they fair for a daily driven car but I'd imagine they would cope fine. Hardblok is just like tile cement and you mix it with water using a power drill with a paint mixer attached. I use a small funnel that I jam into water gallery holes in the top of the block then just pour it in a bit at a time and work it in with some wire. Once you've poured some into each hole you can just work it all the way around the cylinders with the wire. Its messy crap and bit of a pain to do but its not that hard to do it yourself.

I dont know why i wrote aeromotive I meant to write Magnafuel. Probably looked at to many fuel systems in the last couple of days as I'm looking to upgrade as I'm switching to methanol. http://www.magnafuel.com/products/efi/regu...s/MP-9940-B.htm You can buy these from places like Jegs or Summit Racing for around $220us

-8 fuel line and fittings to the rail is good for 500-800hp and -10 is good for 800-1100hp and the return from the reg can be one size smaller than the supply. Aeromotive make a reg with 4x -8 inlets and a -8 outlet.

Tim from sikemwrex probably wouldnt be to interested in that sort of stuff. You could try mark bone at mandurah wreckers as he does a lot of old school stuff.

The problem with the subaru re4r01a is that the output shaft is very small compared to say a skyline re4r01a and half the size of the re4r03a. Once they upgraded the output shaft size to powerglide spline size they had no more issues with breaking output shafts. I will be testing the limits of the re4r03a boxes soon. We have kept the shafts standard (other than heat treating) to see what weak links show up. These are larger than a v8 glide so any problems should be fixable using higher grade steel.

A built C4 is a strong box but dont under estimate the re4r03a as testing in the states indicates that these boxes will survive 1000hp and beyond.

If you want to do any street driving I would recommend going for a built jatco re4r03a as you still retain the overdrive but they are expensive compared to something like a C4.

I would change the balancer on any built rb26 motor as I have seen a lot of factory items flogged out. I believe that this is probably the reason behind a lot of broken oil pumps. I build a lot of sr20's and everyone one of those Ive seen with a broken oil pump has had one of those GFB solid pulleys fitted.

I had to take some badges from a Toyota recently and found that the glue had actually eaten into the paint. I ended up having to sand with some 1200 then buff it up. I also recently took some stickers off the side of a tarago and the same deal but the glue had eaten into the paint so much it had to be resprayed.

The t51 can flow more than the gt4202

T04r/z v bw76 v bw80

Hers a pic of the b/w 76mm comp wheel in the background.

Notice how the larger borgwarner74 spools earlier than the gt4088

The Garrett t51r (spl) is basically the same as the hks t51spl. The gt4202 is a different turbo, basically has a gt42 turbine wheel and a 74/102mm comp wheel. Garrett also sell another turbo sometimes called a gt4502 which is the t51 spl, uses an old style ta45/51 turbine wheel (not the gt45 turbine as used in like the gt4508) and a 76/102mm comp wheel like the hks t51spl. I recently bought in a few borgwarner turbos around the same size and bigger. These are cheap and strong with a good range of comp/turbine wheels.

My pick would be a 60-1 comp with a small stge3 t3 turbine with an .82 a/r rear. Use a decent merge style small runner exhaust manifold with something like 260 tomei cams and spend some time setting them up. This can make an easy 400rwhp with response. You can even try a single throttle body style inlet manifold.

I have a set of 5 stud 15x8 weld pro stars here with a 4.5" back space with some 15x26x8.5 M/T slicks you can try on to see whats going to fit.

Dave, You can get weld racing rims from the states for just over $1000 delivered for 15x8's and are available in a heap of offsets. I reckon some M/T 15x26x8.5's would be a good starting point and are readily available especially toward the end of the season as they have sales. I have a question about the legalities of running a slick on an awd car as I know last year it wasnt allowed under andra rules but they made exceptions for certain cars. Can anyone tell me if that has been changed in this years andra rule book?