datsqik

Ive bought a bit of gear thru them over the last 6 months and it has always turned up quickly. They are pretty good for genuine nissan parts aswell.

If your funds are limited and you want to get your car back on the road then get the bores lightly honed, clean and check you pistons especially check for cracks between ring lands and wack some new rings in. You could always re-use the bearings if they are ok or just fit some cheap ndc or acl bearings.

The 25 used to have a smaller dia section that the turbine housing bolts to compared to the 28's but im not sure if this is still the case with the 2560 compared to the 2860.

Cooling channel is just a channel that runs under the piston crown that is in line with the oil squirter so some of the oil that squirts under the piston runs thru the channel and helps cool. This is old diesel tech. The 26 has a less than ideal rod/stroke ratio standard and making it shorter speeds up the piston thru the top even more making the combustion process even faster and can lower the peak hp/rpm although the extra stroke would increase hp. The shorter rods can also slow the piston thru the area of max valve lift again reducing the ability to make hp. The rb26 does a lot of things wrong in theory but still seems to make plenty of hp and loves to rev but i would like to see how a 26 crank in a giken/30 long block would go with some long conrods.

Try Northline Freight. The last pallet i sent from perth to sydney (depot to door) cost me $135 which was 320kg (2 stagea autos).

Ive never done the 12mm stud conversion on a 25 block with a 25 head only the 30 block with a 26 head which is pretty straight forward and only requires that the holes at the top of the block need to be relieved slightly before tapping so that the tap starts with the existing thread and not from the top of the block. Ive done some 1/2" head studs into a sr20 which requires the block be drilled and taped as well as larger locating dowels be used which means the head/block needs to be drilled to suit but the head holes clear the studs. I havent had anything to do with the cosworth headgaskets but I'd imagine they must work fine if xs engineering use them. That gtr of theres would have to be one of the best setup time attack cars around.

I wouldnt use a oring with a standard h/g as the standard type head gaskets have a limited life span with all that extra heat any detonation just destroys them. To use an oring with a standard h/g you need to keep the oring in close where the fire ring is which can cause the top of the block to close in which means the block should be honed with a torque plate and dummy head gasket and oring in place. You can use a copper h/g with an oring and keep the oring out a bit further so less chance of the top of the block closing in but i would still recommend torque plate honing be used. With a cast iron block and ally head I fit the oring in the head and a receiver groove in the block as the oring forces the copper h/g into the receiver groove and as cast iron is stronger than ally i prefer it that way to stop the sharp edges of the receiver groove rolling over as it can do in ally. I get a 39 thou wide groove machined 25-30 thou deep into the head and use 40thou wire so that it protrude 10-15thou once its pushed into place. 10thou is enough if done without using a receiver groove and up to 15thou if a receiver groove is used. The receiver groove in the block should be 40-60thou wide and around 20thou deep to allow the cooper h/g to be pushed into the groove. These grooves need to line up perfectly for it to work properly. Best to have a torque plate made that lines up perfectly with the bores that uses dowell locating holes that go all the way thru so you can reverse this onto the head so the machine shop has something to setup from. Ridgecrest make a few different thicknesses of cooper head gaskets that are cheap enough but you must use a good sealant like silver sealant to seal up around the fluid holes. As far as metal h/g's go I reckon the power enterprise ones as they have like a double grommet that gives lower clamping pressure on the inner lip and higher pressure on the outer grommet so less chance of the bores closing in at the top. http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products...ket/gasket.html Ive also had good success with the hks stopper and the tomei grommet h/g's. If your using a 25 block then it would be advisable to drill and tap the block to suit the arp gtr studs.

The reason most companies dont make standard bore pistons for the rb30 is the age of the rb30 blocks. Most would simply been to worn to get the correct clearance and infact most rb30's ive had bored to 20 thou over will only just clean up and some ive had to move them a couple of thou off centre so they will clean up. Unless you have a new rb30 block sitting around then I'd be looking at going 20 thou over which isnt a problem anyway.

Go for wireless N if you want speed not wireless G.

From the pics you've posted i can't see that the head gasket has blown. All i can see is heaps of detonation that has damaged the tops of the pistons and probably ring grooves/lands. As for getting you squish clearance right its simple a matter of checking how far the flats on the pistons sit compared to the top of the block at tdc of each piston. You measure with a feeler gauge and ruler and they will either sit just above the block or just below. You basically want no less than 35 thou between the head and the piston so if you were using a 1.2mm (48thou) gasket and the piston sat 8 thou proud of the block then you would have a 40 thou gap from the piston flats to the head which would be fine. If it were my motor i would be having a good look down the sides of the pistons with a borescoope to see the extent of the damage but from the pics youve posted i would probably end up fitting new pistons but it is hard to see how much damage has been caused by detonation. I definately wouldnt be running the same tune on the rebuilt motor.

Factory valve guides are generally a cast iron sintered alloy. Sometimes chunks these can break off which is usually more common in engines that have higher combustion/exhaust temps and lots of rpm. But sometimes when people port heads they heat the head and knock the guides in and out of the way whilst they port then knock them back in when finished and sometimes this can cause cracks in the guides that can break at a later time. You should be able to see if a chunk has broken off the end of the guide.

Could have been a number of things cause this. The pics aren't really clear but my guess would be that it may have broken part of the guide off which has either caused the valve to get stuck down and cop a wack or the part of the guide has stuck between the seat and valve causing it get stuck down and cop a wack. It seems unlikely to me that the head place would setup the clearances with one valve having a lot less clearance than all the others causing it to come in contact with the piston. I would also check the guide to valve clearance as most exhaust guides get flogged out due to the heat that gets passed thru them due to the sodium type valves. Some machine shops use the old knurl method and insufficient clearance may result. K-liners can also be used but dont seem to suffer from galling with tight clearances. Ive seen a few GTR heads with a bent valve recently. One was built by some self proclaimed gtr head gurus from qld which had the vg30 valves installed which are like 0.5mm bigger head size,2.6mm longer and use the 6mm stems on the exhausts. The valve spring pressure were weak as piss and they had also ground the tops off the valve and ground the shims right down to get the correct clearance. Doing this also meant they had to use a die grinder in the guts of the retainer so the shim would sit far enough in to actually touch the valves. Unfortunately they didnt check all the handy work with the die grinder and some of the shims were sitting on the retainer and not touching the valves when they set there clearances. This cause the retainer to be pushed down first until the shim came in contact with the valve, the retainer was pushed down enough that a collett came out causing all sorts of destruction. Another gtr had recently been rebuilt and it appeared that they had knurled up the exhaust guides as they are usually worn. The exhaust valve on No.6 must have got jammed thru lack of guide to valve clearance which wouldn't of been helped by the fact that they usually run quite hot/lean on that cylinder causing the valve to get wacked by the piston.

I'd be having a look at what borgwarner/airwerks have to offer. They do a 91mm turbo and a few other sizes between that and the gt60 sized compressor which is huge.

$2103.35 to your door on rhdjapan at the moment. I got one for just under $2k when the $au was a bit stronger.

http://www.performancesprings.com.au/

The re4r01a's are going behind sr20det's, one is a 200b and the other a 1600. Both of these cars are drag only with the cooler being mounted at the rear of the car with dedicated fans as there is no room to mount at the front. I am also currently doing a stagea auto but swaping the re4r01a main box for the re4r03a main box with full drag internals and a mating shaft to suit the stagea transfer case.

The main reason the stocky boxes dont last is that they run low line pressures especially on gear changes. They do this so they have smooth changes but it wears out the clutch packs. By modifying the valve bodies upping the line pressure makes them shift hard with less slip. This can extend the life of these boxes but you really need to start off with one that has good clutch packs before modifying.

There are so any variations of these nissan boxes its hard to know which is stronger. The r33 comes with either the re4r01a (4 speed) or the re5r01a (5 speed) and the r34's ive seen are the re4r01a but with tiptronic control. The re5r01a's are longer as they have a longer rear extension housing with a extra gear and also have a larger dia output shaft by 2 splines. The all have the same size input shaft but some have an extra speed sensor at the front near the bellhousing which means they have a course spline half way along the small input shaft that the pickup reads from which would reduce the strength somewhat. As far as i know they all use the same single band but there are some variation with clutch sizes and spline counts inside. Ive just finsihed building a couple of re4r01a using the strongest bits from each model of the re4r01a using a SR20det bellhousing, r33 main case with a subaru 2.7 1st gear, the largest size aftermarket clutches and steels, carbon band, s6 rx7 output shaft and rear extension housing (same dia as the re5r01a), the largest planetary sets (cryo treated), all shafts either cryo treated or remade in en26, full manual valve body assembly with a transbrake and billet servo.

Supertech do good valves etc for the rb's. http://www.supertechperformance.com/ I usually buy them thru portflow. http://www.portflow.com/frame.htm I would suggest also using some manganese/bronze guides. They use the inconel exhaust valves to replace the sodium filled standard valves. There are arguments for and against both valves but the sodium filled valves pass a lot of heat thru the valve stems as opposed to the seat which can tend to flogg the guides out rather quick. The use black nitriding on the stainless inlet valves which resists gawling. They also use chrome silicone vanadium steel alloy springs which are really nice and a step above most other readily available springs.

If you are using the tomei cams with the smaller 30mm base circle then yes you need the different lifters to suit this. I believe supertech also make them.

Ignition timing and cam timing the same as when it was pulled apart?

Have you had anyone who knows what they are doing have a listen to it first as it may not be internal. Do you know what detonation sounds like?

One of these suckers will do the trick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FONe--EjCpc

Ive heard people say that the r33/34/stagea transfer box is preloaded refering to the clutch packs inside the transfer box and that the r32/gts4 isn't. I was under the impression that this was due to some sort of residual valve in the system that holds a minimum line pressure causing some drive to the front wheels at all times and not a preloaded clutch pack. If you put a r33 box into a r32 it behaves just like a r32 or if you relieve the pressure from the system in a r33 and disconnect the pump it can be run on a 2wd dyno.

BMS are looking into a building me a re4r03a gearbox with the transfer case from a re4r01a. Hopefully all turns out well as we will be pushing some power thru it.