datsqik

Cheers for that.

Yeh i was just trying to find out if the clutch packs or drive shafts are any smaller etc. Anyone have a cheap stagea box?

Im after a cheap stagea auto gearbox. Would prefer WA but willing to transport if cheap enough.

Im trying to find out any differences between the centre diffs and transfer cases between the gtr/gts4 and stagea. I am looking to build a RE4R03a gearbox behind a rb30/26 and adapt either the gts4 (re4r01a) or stagea (re4r01a) transfer case and centre diff. I know the rear extension housing bolt patterns are the same so it would bolt up but i would have to get a shaft made as the re4r03a uses a much bigger output shaft but this shouldnt be a problem but i need to know if the centre diffs are the same. Like do they have the same amount of plates in the clutch packs and do they run the same pressure from the attessa etc.

I think he is refering to the Re4r01a skyline style jatco being much stronger than the older 4n71b style jatco. These days there are a lot of parts available for the later skyline style autos and can be built to handle 1000hp with full manual valve bodies,transbrakes,billet servos,wider band,stronger clutches and steels and a decent reverse clutch pack to live with the transbrake and i believe there are some t400 splined hituff input shafts on there way for those who break the standard ones that have been heat treated. The planetarys also need to be heat treated. If this box isnt strong enough then jatco also make the Re4r03a which is even stronger from what ive been told with larger shafts etc and all the manual valve bodies etc are also available for these. These were used behind the vg30dett and vq30det and also in some patrols in 4wd form that could be suitable for a awd gtr. The only real problem i see with the transbrake setup is that its only really suitable for drag racing as it has no compression braking but it is also available without the transbrake which would be suitable for the street and with a well setup converter should still launch fairly hard at the track.

They are Supertech brand.

Garrett usa have finally released the T04z along with the compressor and turbine maps for those interested. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GTB

I would imagine with the higher pressures in the inlet and exhaust the point of meaningfull lift would be smaller in a turbo engine compared to n/a but as previously said as long as you only want a base line doing it at 50thou would be ok.Companies like tomei list factory cam timing in lobe centre points for in/ex and their duration so you could work out the opening and closing points they use.They also use this for their own cams but i would imagine this is done at "advertised duration" aswell.Using lobe centre points and lobe seperation can be another way of keeping data.This data would also need to be compared to things like boost pressure and the size of the turbo and exhaust a/r as an engine that runs factory turbos at 1.5 bar making say 340rwhp will react differently to cam adjustments on the same engine running a larger turbo with a big a/r exhaust housing running say .7bar and making the same rwhp.This is where keeping a track of exhaust back pressure can also come in handy.Some people worth talking to about turbo camshaft timing/design would be phil morris from motec,clive from clives cams and ivan tighe as these guy have much experience with camshaft design for turbo engines.

Forgot to add could this be easily(cheaply) reconfigured to suit a rb30

If the microtech is an lt8 then i gather it is setup for waste sparking.

The 3.7 doesnt really suit my needs although i may look at a 3.7 later. The 3.9 and one of the 4.4s have buyers and the other 4.4 im waiting on more parts.I have another 3.9 lsd and 4.4 lsd on the way but these are all built to nismo spec and i usually get $1000-$1200 for these. If i cant find a cheap 3.9 open soon i'll have to put a lsd back in.

The 3.5 long nose i have has 12mm bolts and came from a 300zx.I have a 3.9 lsd that has 10mm bolts from a s12 and have a few 4.4 lsds from jap r31s that have 12mm bolts and also a genuine nismo 4.4 with the chrome moly side cover that is also 12mm bolts.Im just looking for an open 3.9 so ican weld it up as i dont need the lsds for drag racing. Im some en26 29spline halfshaft axles made at the moment and some 4340 29 spline stub axles made so im hoping this cures the axle breaking issues.

Im also looking for a 3.9 open longnose r200 or maybe a swap with a 3.5 open.

Weld a bolt onto the square hole then use spanner to undo.

If your car is registered in NSW then you should have to many problems transfering over here.They actually call it vehicle license over here not rego which is still something i cant get used to.They have privatetly and state run pit inspection places and from the experience ive had the private joints are just gunna scratch there heads and say to hard (these guys cant make a decision).Your best bet is to get in contact with Reno (the man in charge)from the state run place at Weelshpool and just tell him you want everything done properly with permits etc for mods.The main things they dont like is to low,to noisy,dark tint,boost controllers and aftermarket ecu's and any other electronic gadgets that can control or alter the efi. Ive also heard that Midland pits isnt to bad either. Good luck with the move over here,i made the move from sydney some 16 years ago and never really looked back.Missed my family,mates and contacts and the snow but i prefer the way of life over here especially now that im an hour out of perth.

Ive built quite a few engines over the years and have found that i usually have to hone at least one conrod per build as they have been to tight.The last motor i recieved for rebuilding was a freshly built sr20 with hks pistons that started making death rattle noises.I thought for sure i would find at least one tight little end but ended up being tight piston to bore clearance (1 thou).Made a mess of one piston and bore and the others looked like they were ready to grab and tear.Had a lot of wear on the skirts for a motor that had only done a few hours work.

Ive been using the RDA stuff for a while and like them.I havent used them for circuit racing but use them for drag racing in one of my cars which uses green stuff pads and they work well cold braking at 140mph. I had a bit of a bad run a few years ago with dba rotors where they would start to shuder and stuf after a 1000k's of hard driving and whenever i rang and asked for a reason why it was happening i was allways told it was because of brake pads or not being bed in properly. So i tried some cheap rda rotors and never had the same problems again.

I reckon a T04z with a .81 housing which is good for 500rwhp at around 16psi and will make 600rwhp with more boost.

SWR usually stocks most of the parts needed and is a bit cheaper than retail from nissan.If you can get a good trade price then you can get some of the plates thru nissan cheaper.Some of the other plates have to be ordered from nismo if your trying to save costs.Send me a pm and i can give you some details of who to buy them thru and what parts are needed.Your dat looks good,what grill is that.Here's some pics of my dat,you'll notice not many pics of the body as its pretty nasty.Im actually in the process of welding on another arse end and getting it ready for a paint job.Im also trying to sort out some billet halfshafts and stub axles. http://photobucket.com/albums/v604/datsqik/

Im pretty sure you have to use the gears off the long nose onto the short nose centre when used in a long nose housing but dont quote me on this.This is normaly done by using some sleeves so the smaller bolts fit snug in the short nose centre.Im pretty sure the torsen diff uses 13mm bolts.

The later model r200's have bigger bolts thru the crown so not really interchangable but it has been done.You could try having the crown and pinion reshimed but this doesnt allways work as the crown and pinion may have a lot of wear and need replacing.These are expensive thru nissan and probably easier to hunt around for another diff. The main problem with the long nose r200 is that most of them only have one friction disk each side and these have a tendency to tear the inner lugs off as all the power is being tranfered thru these.The nismo diffs use 3 of these aech side(actually 2 and a spring disk) and 3 friction plates(2 fricton plates and a spring plate) and then shimed to the correct break away pressure.The nissan pinion shafts have around a 45 deg angle where as the nismo pinion shafts are around 30deg which means they can lock up with less load.The nismo diff also has a chromemoly end plate to reduce the chance of the diff exploding. http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsdtech.html

If you have removed the 4 bolts then you need to pull the bearing caps out.You may need to give them a tap with a copper/plastic hammer and mark which side they came from.The centre can now be removed,sometimes these can be pull out by hand or you may have to use a long screw driver to lever it up on each side if it is tight.Remember these have shims on either side and need to go back in the same way and so do the bearings unless you replacing the bearings or the centre or adjusting the tooth mesh/backlash.

Pep Pro make them.Cheaper than the nissan ones.

Keas atuomatics have all sorts of gear available for these autos to set up how you want.Anything from full manual shifting valve bodies with transbrakes to shift kits.

On my car the cat has flanges and there is also another fange near the back.I just fit a plate with 3 10mm holes at the flange at the back of the cat with a gasket either side and then fit another plate at the rear muffler flange with 2 10mm holes in it again with a gasket either side.This should make it quiet enogh to pass but i wouldnt go thrashing it to much with the restrictors in as you'll probably blow turbo gaskets.