cookie300zx

yep, but they are exactly the same SOLD

hi mate got one of these for sale Clicky cheers james

Brand new, still in packaging JRD boost controller as raved about here SAU Raving $30 delivered or $25 pickup from north sydney area bought this off ebay, but then decided to go e-boost 2 instead. contact is on 0408 004 648 cheers james

get a tune with an SAFC or something, bump the ignition timing a bit, get a high-flow cat before the tune, then if you need a new clutch, get a lightweight flywheel as well. after that, give up, gonna cost a shitload of money for small gains. with the stuff mentioned, you will have an enjoyable street driver, not huge power, but alot of fun i would say

swap it for a rb25de. there is really no point in building a rb20de up. you will get such small gains for the heap of money you will put into it. it will cost the same to do the swap as it will to modify a rb20de and you will have more power and more torque

those are the things i was saying you should not be buying. would be tuned for JAP fuel, and you have no idea what the AF ratios and ignition timing would be set at! could be rather dangerous, and you won't get the same gains as a chip/piggy back that has been tuned for your car

cuold you explain that in more detail please. my base timing is set at 15 degrees (stock for 300zx NA) so could you explain how the ignition timing is being advanced by leaning out the AF ratio?

on my NA 300zx i gained 22rwkw just from SAFC tune. no ignition timing increase. the reason nissan could not make their cars with the "ideal tuning" is because they have to run everything very safely because alot of people don't look after their cars. look at how rich factory ECU's run. NA 300zx's ideal A/F ratio is around 12.8:1, i imagine this would be not too dissimilar to NA skylines. my car before tuning was running at 10.5:1. it will make your car go faster, it will change your lap times, you will notice the difference, and you will save noticeably on fuel. it will make the car nicer to drive daily with more low-mid range torque. yes brakes and suspension are important, but i doubt that he is talking about racing his car on the track, more likely he is just using the term "racing chip" as a descriptor for modifying the ECU settings.

you are better off getting a chip burnt or safc tuned for your specific car than installing a one size fits all chip. alot of the chips out of japan are not good for australian fuels because they are tuned for 101 octane fuel. the jap ones run too much ignition timing and are often dangerous.

no

yes your right, 300zx's are very ugly cars. no classic sports car lines at all.

[Deleted by Prank] - Your opinions are not welcome in this thread or any others in the for sale area. Pull your head in or we will start banning!

good luck jono doubt they will give your money back

dude, his af's are near perfect. around 11.8:1, probably just on the safe side of things, which is what you want. i would be extremely happy with a tune, power curve, price of tune like that on my car.

ok so i was a little harsh before, and i apologise yes the product would be excellent for cold air induction, however, if you front mounted it, it would also block off airflow into the radiator. how much is it out of interest? if it is polished stainless, i would say it would be rather expensive for an air filter. a much better option in my opinion would be to buy a normal K&N pod, or whichever brand you choose, and then you could get a piece of stainless made up so that you could mount the pod in front of your radiator, like my 300zx. another option would be to make an airbox like i have seen on other skylines, which has piping that takes air from the front bumper and re-directs it into the airbox. i doubt you would see any difference in power gains from either the air-box, FMIC style, or front mounted pod, air filter options. they would all give around about the same rwkw gain. wouldn't the perspex cover significantly reduce airflow when it was attached? another thing would be that the FMIC style air filter would get extremely dirty very quickly. it would be very hard to keep clean and at it's optimal efficiency, and i imagine that air filters of that size would be expensive to replace. personally i would say just go with a pod front mounted. easy as pie to do, and extremely effective.

dude, it is a NA auto 4 door. slowest skyline combination possible. Sp23's are pretty quick little cars for a 4 cylinder. the outcome is probably correct.

they let you do that? it doesn't get classed as too loud? also how do you mount the front pipes so they don't wobble round?

LOL

your tuner could have tuned it just for top end power. get an awesome top end figure, but lose low-midrange. seeing as you don't drive around everyday at 7000rpm, i would get it re-tuned so that you get a fat mid-range gain, however you will lost a little top end. car will probably feel faster though, and the power/torque will be in a more useable part of the rev range.

if you want a really nice sounding exhaust that is not loud, get a "remus" or a "hi-tech" system. be prepared to pay for it though

Apexi SAFC and ITC

marginal performance increases hey? i don't see any gtst's with 270rwkw on stock turbos! to get a Z to 220 rwkw is insanely easy. to get a gtst to that figure, you need to start spending some money. value for money is in the eye of the beholder. oh and those overheating issues you talk about, not once has my car overheated, had it for over 2 years, and i give her a good workout every now and then. a gtst is no comparison for a Z, the mighty godzilla is a completely different thing though! nothing but respect for GTR's. oh yeah, and tektrader is right, there are so many skylines these days, they are no longer different.

if i'm not mistaken shifter, trayns 14.53 run was done at 23 degree ambiant temperature and he had 137 rwkw. so not the most powerful NA and bad conditions too. still that is a testament to the results you can get if you are a skillful driver!

it's all about the first 60 foot. 2.5 is way too high to be able to run a low13/high12. i am pretty sure it's just a practice thing. and lower your pressures to about 24 psi. that will help a shiteload

dude, you can get these for $400 to your door brand new from japan