Stoney85

Haha Jono, I see you found him, couldn't help yourself could you.

Forged RB26 R34 GTT, run in tune of 320kws, with the current setup, it has previously made over 400rwkws, asking $24k

I've got an R34 GTT with a freshly forged RB26 in it, run in tune is making 320rwkws at 17psi, has previously made over 400kws on the same turbo/ecu/fuel setup, $24k, only thing standard is the interior seats

Hopefully i've replied to all the PM's, my phone recently died, so i'm running a potato for a phone now, i could probably sketch a picture with more detail than what that would give you.

This car probably has more nismo items on it than any nismo badged car that was sold! So clean for a car 25 years old!

Everyobdy loves the side pipe!! 1330kg isn't too bad for a 33, whats the interior consist of?

I've got leftover parts from my RB26 build. N1 Block that has a cracked cylinder 6, possibly repairable if you were sleeving the block, otherwise a good coffee table, open to offers R34 RB26 crank, grub screwed, race prepped, balanced, never machined - $400 R33 stock pistons and rods, one piston has a cracked and melted ringland - $100 Nearly new oil pump $100 RB26 balancer $100 Fully built JHH RB26 head, CNC porting, 1mm oversized supertech valve, supertech springs and valve guides too, Tomei 272 cams, however cylinder 6 will require rebuilding after a valve head decided it didnt want to play games anymore, entertaining offers on the head, I'll probably keep it and fix it up, was used in a setup making over 400kw on 21psi with a GT3582R, the idle this gave the 26 was what dreams were made of, WERE made of (FML) I'll try find the receipts for this head, but there is $1000's spent on it, lots of thousands I'll get some pics up soon Located near Coffs Harbour, NSW

Anyone? I also need the rear boot trim carpet piece and about 4 boot trim clips too please.

Such an awesome combo of the car and driveline. Beautiful E30 to start with too! Certainly looks like you have done your research in regards to the oil control issues on the RB26.

I'm the same, I have an ext 044, when I turn the key I can hear it prime the system, but once the RB26 starts, between the 4" exhaust and GT3582R, I can't hear much else

Read the oil control issue thread, and just do a catch can setup like that. An exhaust scavenge setup can work and has been shown to work, usually on N/A cars though, but for your setup, it's probably not required and over the top.

External pumps like the bosch 044's need a bit of head pressure on them, quietens them down immensely, and to have no restriction before their inlet, ie being bolted straight to the surge tank with the largest fitting possible, and fitting a check valve in the return line that opens around 20psi (irrelevant though to your question) The good thing about an intank pump is that its immersed in fuel and generally external to the cars cabin, if its bad enough, a small roll of sound deadener mounted around the boot and tyre well will really reduce the noise.

Is there a reason you went with a bigger clearance than recommended? I went with about 2though in the end, it's definitely a tight motor, yet to drain the first run in oil, as i've only just done about 250kms, will do a compression test out of curiosity soon.

Yes, they're expensive, but so is an engine rebuild. Not seeing much for under $300, and the techedge is $400 for the economy unit + gauge combo, I also like the fact that if they are local to me, aftermarket support I would hope would be good, and any warranty repairs, heaven forbid, would then be an easy solution. The innvoate LC-2 is $300 and thats without the gauge, so add another $120, and looks to be on par with the techedge, if not better due to the fact thats its a main brand http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Air-Fuel-Ratio-Meter-Innovate-Motorsports-LC-2-Oxygen-Sensor-Part-3877-AFR-/111614664790?hash=item19fcc0a056 Whatever one I plan on getting, I want it to have the ability to send a signal to the ViPEC for on the road self tuning/monitoring, and I can set paramters/failsafes if the AFR's dont match the tunes, similar to the AEM failsafe but just using the ViPEC instead. Plus I will most likely keep it when I sell the car.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Innovate-3877-LC-2-Wide-Band-Tuning-Kit-Bosch-LSU-4-9-Oxygen-Sensor-/151734675348?hash=item2354176794

Also, the 4" dump pipe in my setup already has the provision for a wideband, correctly positioned.

All the new innovate kits use the LSU 4.9, been told to make sure you dont get old stock which still use the 4.2. I had tuned my car with the techedge LSU4.9, and from what i've been told, the 4.9 has a much faster response time, so I'd like to keep that. Haha, how about that, the techedge is made in Coffs Harbour, 20mins down the road from me, might have to pay them a visit.

It was that or the new LC-2 I was looking at, I do like the extra features the failsafe come with. Haven't looked to far into them yet though, but are they using the new bosch 4.9 sensor?

Got it sorted, bypassed the oil cooler setup, fitted an oil filter straight to the block, blocked off the sump breathers and pressurised the sump through the dipstick, turbo drain disconnected, and then cranked it over a few times, removed the oil filter and it had oil in it, refitted and kept going, and finally got oil out the turbo drain. Reconnected everything, and happy days!! Ran it to get it warm to seal the headgasket and check over everything, before refitting the radiator and filling it up. Reconnected everything inc bonnet and bumper. Realised I hadn't connected the reverse wiring, crawled under to fit that and caused a spark from the wires somehow after pulling on the wires a bit and then realised I lost the starter motor from that, wont crank now, checked all fuses and all are good. At wits end yet again for another issue. Starting to quickly lose my hair over this car, everytime I get somewhere, another issue pops up. My multimeter decided to get a flat battery then too, so I called it quits again for another day. Should be an easy fix, only issue is the previous owner did a complete wire tuck of the engine bay and all the engine bay wiring/fuse/relay panel is jammed into the glove box. Spoke to my tuner about his recommended run in procedure, just gathering info, and his opinion was to not let it idle for too long, and then get it onto the road, and without hitting much boost at all, bring it from 3000rpm to 5000rpm while trying to maintain close to 0 boost/vacuum on the gauge, then let it cruise down to under 3000rpm, drive around for a minute or two, then repeat that process about ten times, reasoning behind it, is to load the piston rings against the cylinder walls under the slight boost/load and the decell creates a vacuum and sucks oil into the rings to lube them. Then after that, the rings are either bedded in or you will have oil control issues, then do a few hundred kms, change the oil with fresh penrite running in oil again and drive a bit more keeping it under 5000-6000rpm and 5psi. I'm getting another wideband to interface with my ViPEC and to check that everything is fine, but will probably have to add a bit more fuel (~5%) to take into account the larger capacity motor (1mm oversize). Then also decide if I want to up the boost from the tuned 17psi and have a second tune for 25psi or so.

I have the oil cooler/relocator setup, but double checked the hose layout, cant hurt to triple check it to make sure though. Todays plan is to remove the cooler setup and just run a filter on the block to eliminate any external issues that might be caused. I was doing as you mentioned yesterday but just from the cooler hose instead, the motor did suck in the oil through the pump, probably went through half a litre, then I rotated the motor forwards to see if it would fill the hose again and overflow (holding the hose upright) and all it did was fill it for about a turn of the crank then nothing, I guess i'll just keep trying this until I have bled any/all the air from the oil pump rotors.

On the L series datto engine I built years ago, Baz from Datsport told me to run it dry till it got hot, to seal the head gasket. Anyway, the engine is in, all plugged in and ready to go. Guess what I dont have! Oil Pressure!! FML I primed the oil pump prior to putting it in, even with the motor assembled and the sump off, upside down on the stand I bled the pump by cranking the motor by hand with a funnel full of oil in the pickup point (before fitting the pickup strainer) and had oil coming ot of everywhere. So, I've got the plugs out, and cranking with nothing, no oil out the turbo drain, tried a few different things even removing the filter and putting a hose onto the oil pumps pressure side and reverse rotating the motor to suck oil into the pump, not much luck there, it sucks it in, but i then out of curiosity, crank the motor and it just pumps a little oil then nothing. Over filled the sump by a litre or so too, to see if that helped. Fitted eveything up, and started the car to see if some load would help, nothing after 10 seconds so turned it off (was happy that it fired first go though) Still doing some research as to any other ways to get oil pressure, but I've never had this problem before, leaving it for today and coming back with a fresh mind and plan of attack. Everything has been smooth sailing until now. I really dont want to have to pull the motor again, (can I swear now?!?!?!?!)

That was my thinking too, I guess i might have to either invest more money into the tensioner fix Ross released because they cant make a correct part to start with, or trial a few different belts out other than gates.

Also, will decide on whether to fit the stock balancer or the Ross balancer, always have had problems with the Ross spitting p/s belts, never once with the stock

Checked the head and it's all good, plus it was only machined a few thousand kms ago. So it turns out I already had a 1.25mm restrictor in place, I just assumed it was stock, still haven't received the one I ordered anyway, my fault for not even measuring it previously, rookie error. So with that knowledge, I cleaned everything up, and fitted the head, new Cometic MLS 87mm gasket and ARP studs torqued to 105ft/lb in three steps, I dry installed it as per manufacturers recommendations, found conflicting reports on that, but went with their way. Fitted the rear head breather mod (aka rear head drain), as I had this setup already for the previous motor, swapped it from the JHH head that needs rebuilding. Intake and 6 boost manifold is on, fitted the timing belt, and thats all good, sump etc is all sorted. Tomorrow night is when I'll take it off the stand and fit the OS giken triple plate and gearbox, then fit it back to the car! Would be finished this weekend, but I'm a bit hesitant on that, good mates 30th this saturday, so thats sunday gone. Appreciate your insight so far though, certainly gives me more confidence i'm doing it correctly.

Bottom end is assembled now, clearances are all great, still waiting on the restrictor to arrive though before the head can go back on. Seeing as it was only done not too long ago, the head surface is pretty clean and using a cometic MLS before, there isn't much to clean off, but does anone have any tips? before i delve in with a razor blade, will try some degreaser and rag first to see how much comes off, just would much rather not scratch the mating surface, and its too clean to need another machine, i did get the block decked, but it was ever so slightly the original stampings are still evident, something like 2 or 3 though i think. I've got too much going on right now.. This rebuild for my R34, restroring a MK2 Jag so it runs again - ignition, fuel system, brakes, Just got an E28 BMW as well to clean up and sell, and my daily E34 BMW I just welded up and fitted BC racing coilovers to as the original stuff was dead.