BlindspottNZ

Doesn't seem that I can edit/delete the original post, but fyi, this is now being sold on consignment through a dealership (KS Motor); who can offer finance etc, for a higher price than it is listed here

My Awesome GT-T My awesome R34 GT-T - $19,000 ER34 factory manual turbo coupé in highly desirable GV1 black pearl, fastidiously maintained, owner for past 5 years Excellent street car with the potential for much more Huge amount of time, effort and money in this car, would like to see it go to a good home It has travelled 122,xxx k's and has the following mods: ENGINE: Full Exhaust 5zigen, APexi pod filter, 750cc Simmens injectors, Twin flow fuel rail, Turbosmart FPR with braided fuel hoses and speedflow fittings, Gates Barricade soft fuel lines to and from filter (E85 safe), Catch can plumbed to intake with aeroflow fittings, Head port and polished (exhaust ports matched and knife edged, lumps in exhaust ports removed, CC's cleaned up) Durapro graphite head gasket, ARP headstuds, Tomei cam cap studs, Tomei Poncam Type B 260 cams properly installed i.e. reshimmed and clearanced solid lifters to suit, Supertech valve stem seals, Sikky heat deflecting intake gasket, Gates timing belt, new water pump, tensioner bearings etc, Front mount intercooler and custom piping, BOV removed, Motorbike battery (~15kg lighter than the 20yr old stock unit with a higher CCA), Front facing inlet manifold with internal trumpets, 90mm throttle, TCS removed, RB26 rocker cover set custom painted gold with rising sun, front cover customised to fit NEO VCT gear, anodised bolts all round, new fasteners in many places, MOTUL oil in engine, REDLINE in gearbox, Nistune ECU tuned at Garage 101 SUSPENSION BRAKES WHEELS AND TYRES: HKS Hipermax coilovers (best you can get for this car imo), GReddy/Alcon 330mm Front brakes, two piece alloy hat rotors, 4 piston titanium coated calipers, running Pagid RS4-2 rally pads (~$6000 setup new...) Braided front brake lines, PBR Racing fluid, 19" ROH wheels 245/35 all round, good tyres, Alloy wheel nuts, Pink tyre valve caps BODYWORK: Fresh paint job in factory GV1 black pearl in 2016, Custom body kit (Genuine Nismo plastic rear bar, custom side skirts, Z-Tune style front bar), Seibon Carbon fibre bonnet ($1200...), China Carbon fibre boot, Nismo clear front indicators, Nismo quarter badges INTERIOR: Defi heads up display, HKS turbo timer, Nismo metal pedal set, Nismo gear knob, Touch screen SONY head unit with decent front splits, JDM S15 Steering wheel (original included in sale if you prefer), clean and tidy Looks, sounds and drives amazing Pretty much the only stock thing is the turbo, due to the flow mods/cams it has near instant response (producing boost by 2000RPM) and bags of torque low down so is absolutely awesome as a street car, does limit high RPM power but as I have never tracked and don't thrash the car this has never bothered me... Supporting mods there to make big power should you wish to change the set-up Would love this to go to a good home and be looking as good as it is today in another 20 years For insurance purposes I will do the driving unless you are coming back with the full amount after making a deposit Car is located in Perth near the CBD Thanks for looking and have a good day May be easiest to txt me on O4O5986-747

Hey guys, I made up an adaptor plate kit for my personal car and had a few extras cut at the same time, limited supply Flange/Adaptor kit to attach an R34 NEO AACV Idle air/water temp control unit to an R33 intake/inlet manifold/plenum Necessary when installing the majority of after-market RB25 manifolds ie GReddy/freddy onto a NEO to retain factory idle control Kit comes with bolts and gaskets for both sides (one of which passes over two of the bolt heads, these spots need to be sealed with liquid gasket) $60 posted Australia wide Cheers

Hey guys, After an RB26 cover set (rockers, timing, valley) OEM, going to be repainted etc so not after anything fancy. I'm located in Perth. Cheers

Sealant/glaze first, wax after. The wax is the outer 'service' layer and can be taken away or built up as needed, the clean surface of your paint remains sealed under the sealant.

awesome thanks alot

Hey man thank you very much ! Do you know the number for the longer ones with the baffles on also? No stud is protruding its in there deep

which is going to make it lots of fun to remove

Works great on faded exterior plastics too

Meguiars Gold Class Trim Detailer

but it is a pretty pitiful amount of torque to snap a bolt!

They've just come in and out a few times, plus this one was in the middle right beside the exhaust ports so would have had the largest heat cycles I did the head, put the standard cams back in, then changed to tomeis but didnt have the time to do the shims at that point, so out they came again... so yea this is really the 4th time they have been torqued up

Did the shims in my NEO the other day and the final bolt in the cam cap sequence decided to snap off in my head during the final torque... Having abit of trouble finding new aftermarket ones, only ones I can seem to find are Tomei RB26 ones. They are a seperate stud and nut design like most aftermarket studs which is what I would prefer. I'm not sure if they will be an exact replacement for the RB25 NEO ones? Anybody know if A) I could use the Tomei RB26 ones or B) Anywhere that makes a set to suit my engine Worst case scenario I'll have to use OEM ones but expect to be ripped off + they failed anyway so meh... Thanks

and if the price is the same as the other B1 frame turbos...

In my opinion upgrading the retainers is not necessary, the extra pressure from the upgraded springs makes it even more unlikely for them to pop out as there is less chance of valve float at revs... they are held in by the spring pressure so as long as spring pressure does not slacken and let them move around/come out its all good While it is safer to have stiffer springs, I honestly doubt they are really neccessary if the engine is not been revved over 7000RPM and your cams have a smaller lift than say 9.5 If someone has seen valve float in an RB occuring on a dyno with stock springs under this speed or with cams smaller than this then I am incorrect Poncams (which dont require uprated springs) go up to 9.15 lift and the stock rev limit is around this, so I would imagine it would be well within the OEM springs capacity...

I reused the retainers as I kept the standard valves and springs (running poncam does not need tougher springs unless you are being abit silly with the revs heh). Due to their small size and the way they sit/are loaded I think the risk of them actually breaking is pretty non existant - the only failure I can see happening to them is if you are revving so much that you have valve float and due to the limited force of the spring pressing on the cap holding the retainers in (seat pressure), they could pop out? This would be the same with any retainer OEM or aftermarket and would be to do with the seat pressure exerted by the spring. This doesnt mean that the outright stiffest springs are best it may have more to do, in a high rev/high temperature situation, with the material the springs are made from and how much more elasticity they have in the heat - ie how much the seat pressure they provide from cold varies when they are hot, as they get hot and soften they become more elastic. If you have changed to significantly lighter valves than stock you actually need less seat pressure to seal them at speed than the stock ones..

My opinion (based on research in engine building books etc and doing the head on my car) Do not touch the inlet side (port match to the gasket if you must) personally I left the inlet side alone totally - the surface roughness of the runners and the shape of the inlet devider where it splits into each valve is designed to create a small amount of turbulence to help atomise the fuel and create a more efficient burn, i.e. dont polish or knife edge here. Clean up the combustion chamber of any nastiness; mine was rough around the spark plug threads in particular. The idea is not to reshape anything drastically as the factory design is good. Personally I gave the lips of where the valves recess into the head a very slight chamfer as it is a 90º edge here. The lip sits slightly proud of the face of the valves so has no effect on valve sealing (you can see what I mean if you slot a valve into an empty head and see where it sits when closed). A full CNC multiangle valve job would take out quite alot here and radius this 90º down to smoothly flow into the valve seat... I removed my exhaust humps - they would cause turbulence at the port itself where the two valves' flow's merge. This would negate any benefit which may (or more likely may not) exist from the faster exhaust flow due to the venturi effect caused by the hump in that one ex port runner per cylinder. The nature of the venturi effect itself creates turbulence at its exit hence the need for diffusers on underbodies etc... Having both ports uniform also allows the two flows to meet with equal amounts of energy flowing in unison out and into the manifold. Ideally this means that each valve will now be running at the same pressure and flowing an equal volume - this leads to more efficient use of the combustion chamber itself as it can now flow evenly... Anyone ever notice different amount of carbon build up on two ex valves in the same cylinder when you open stock RB...? Knife edge the exhaust collectors and polish everything up. Use exhaust gasket to port match the exhaust ports, better to be safe and not go too far. Keep in mind if your ex gasket does not sit firmly on the exhaust studs and has a little bit of play (holes are larger than studs slightly) of where it will sit when its actually about to be torqued not where you are holding it for a template Give the whole thing a bath to remove any grime and crap from it, I used hot water with lots of detergent and it came out looking new after a couple of overnight soaks (obviously totally bare head). Don't forget to change the valve stem seals. Don't bother ordering them from Nissan Aus, I got a quote in WA for a set $345 hahahahahha ended up getting Supertech ones from the US for $45, OEM ones were $40 or so. Don't pop out the valve springs with a socket and a hammer when you are drunk and in poorly lit thickly carpeted room, the retainers are small.

I'm using Super Lightweight in my R34 5 speed, sweet as

have you ruled out battery issues? It sounds like a short somewhere, can you run a new wire just for test purposes between possible problem terminals? I once had a car where a wire had been damaged and was cut through the insulation/frayed where it passed through the firewall... (turned out it was the positive to the coils... ) it was earthing out on the firewall itself.

the missing marks on the harmonic balancer - probably from the plastic timing cover sitting abit too low and rubbing on it (assuming they were painted on and not indented), you can see two different rings of color around the back circumference, looks like it lines up with the timing notch on the cover...

approved!! wonder if the log manifold was done with the wrong filler rod?

also it is common on RB engines for the exhaust manifold studs to come loose, I found several out on mine when I redid the head

leak in intercooler piping?

RX-7 for too many reasons Well balanced, well priced, light, huge range of parts, cheap to get power out of, cheap to rebuild an engine if it does go

Cool build