Macross

e85 is only cheap at the moment due to heavy government subsidies. Wait until those stop and the price suddenly jumps by 100% overnight, but then on top of that 50%+ of supermarket foods cost an extra 20-30% because the cost of sugar, grain and corn has gone through the roof due to demand from ethanol producers.

Cheers Any idea if the wire in the cabin or under the car? The satnav is a AVIC-F900BT Whoops I meant output. Bit more info about what's on the harness below: I did have a look at this but was unsure with how to pull the fusebox out, so wanted to check if there was another method. Will take a gander around the rev wire to see what I can swing. Definately haven't butchered the wiring harness as anything I was unsure about I simply used some shrink wrap to cap off the end of the wire. Stupidly, I just realised my mistake, when I was wiring up the harness everything matched up perfectly, except for the amplifier on wire (which I mentioned I capped off) however there is a second harness (with rca plugs) that has a "system remote control" wire, which I can now see is used to power up the amp, so I can see where to connect that wire to now. Cheers for the help all

Hi all, I'm trying to install a new satnav head unit into my car, but have a few issues that are cropping up and hoping the guru's here could help me out. Firstly, where can I find the reversing lamp wire for the reverse gear input? Is it located on the passenger side or drivers side footwells? Secondly, when connecting the speed sensor input, the manual doesn't specify what sort of signal is required and the ecu signal is different from the dash speedo signal, which one do I use? Would either one cause issues? Lastly, I wired everything else up and went to test the system, no issues other than there is no sound coming through the speakers... before I go ripping apart all the soldering that's been done, there are a couple things that I thought might have caused the issue. I'm not 100% sure the grounding point I used (I used the metal bracketing behind the dash), is there a better place to use a ground point or would this even be the trouble with this? The head unit also has no input for "Amplifier on" in the wiring harness, so I blanked out that wire coming from the aerpro harness. I'm guessing this is the most likely cause of the problem, but I've scoured the device manual and it has no mention of any wiring to connect this particular wire to. Anyone able to give some advice on these?

3 inch

Price drop... $400 exhaust $120 taillight housings $100 oil cooler

Hi all, I bought a aerpro wiring harness for my R34 and I'm using the wiring diagram from here but the wire marked as "O" (Right Front Speaker (-)) is missing from the aerpro harness and there is a blank on that spot. Is this meant to be this way or did I get a faulty one? I wanted to check before I go soldering things up only to find there's something missing...

All prices are negotiable...

Hey all, have a few things I need to get rid of so I've got them all below: R34 GTR catback exhaust - brand unknown but looks like it's custom made, has a nice sound, not very noisy (sounds legal to my untrained ear). Price is $450 Next up is both left & right taillight housings (the outside bit only) unpainted: (please note the actual lights do not come with and both left AND right are included) Price $150 I also have a derale oil cooler with fittings included, size is 5.5in x 11in: Price $120 Lastly I have some Volk wheel bags that my rims came in, there are 4 bags and they were for 18in wheels. Price $20 All items can be picked up from Fairfield or Drummoyne.

I've been going over this for the last couple hours and I'm tearing my hair out. I need some new rear brake rotors for my '34 Vspec II but all I can find is conflicting information. Nissan FAST tells me that the part number for the rear brake rotors on my car is 43207, when I search the net for this P/N I find brake rotors for sale for standard R34 GTR (non-vspec) which are 300mm. After some digging (there's so little info about) I finally managed to uncover the rear brake rotor size for Vspec II at 322mm and a part number of 43206, which, when entered into Nissan FAST won't give me any information AT ALL besides that the part number links to Brake Rotor. I went to my car and did a very rough estimate of the rear rotor size with a tape measure on the outside of the wheel and as car as I can see it's 300mm, but due to the roughness of my checks I have no idea if I'm out by 22mm or not. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thread back from the grave? I think times have changed since 2002...

I meant more for coding a new key, with the steps outlined earlier "1.get in the car and manually lock the door 2.insert the key in and out of the ignition switch 6 times,the doors will unlock by themselves 3.Insert the key without losing rythme and turn to acc,and relock dors manually,then push the button on the remote. presto,you have a coded remote" The only remote is the alarm remote, so would that be used to code the new key or is there meant to be some OEM remote for the car?

I have the red area at the base of the key, but I'm not sure if coding a new key would work as the car has an aftermarket alarm and I only have the remote for that alarm - so unsure if coding a new key would work with this??

If they have the items in stock, everything is very quick and easy.

Anyone able to post a pic of a NATS enabled key? Do all NATS enabled keys have central locking switches on them or are there some without?

Alternatively, nengun can ship via FedEx for most large items.

Final price drop $3250

I'm happy to negotiate on price within reason, I had a look at some of the ones for sale for under 3k, the sizes aren't as good but mostly they come with around 50% tread left on cheap rubber. I'm putting the price down to $3500 ONO aswell.

Cheers mate Not entirely sure on the fit, so I did a google search, if these two are to be believed then the offsets should be fine for a R33 GTS-t but may need some arch flaring (due to tyre size) Front: This guy is using 235 18 +42's at the front with no issue Rear: Apparently this guy is using 10.5 in +38's without any trouble on his r33 gtst More than happy to organise a test fit for anyone who would like to test in person, but will need to supply own wheel nuts (as I've only got ones with Toyota thread).

Have gotten rid of my car, so now have no use for the wheels, so they are up for sale. Originally bought through PerfectRun (receipts available), I have travelled less than 10,000km on these wheels and it shows with their fantastic condition. These wheels have ZERO gutter rash, they do have some water marks on 2 of the wheels (can see in pictures) that can be removed easily with metal polish but are otherwise unblemished. Rays Volk Racing GT-C Face-1 in Gunmetal, 18x9, Offset: +42, PCD: 5x114.3 x 2 Rays Volk Racing GT-C Face-2 in Gunmetal, 18x10, Offset: +37, PCD: 5x114.3 x 2 These are wrapped in BFGoodrich T/A KDW 2 rubber which was purchased through tirerack in the US for a bucketload, they provide amazing grip. The wheels do not come with center caps. Price is $3750 ONO can contact via pm or on 0412422368 Preferably pickup in western Sydney, but am more than happy to package them up if buyer wishes to arrange a courier. Heaps of photos are below (didn't have a tape measure small enough to fit into the grooves but can clearly see the wear marker on each photo as each depicts a different wheel):

Bought my wheels from them, top blokes and great service had no issues at all.

If you were pulled over in person then it doesn't matter if the rego is wrong, you'll still have to pay. If it was a camera fine (which I doubt otherwise it would have gone to someone elses house if the rego was wrong), then you could challenge it.

Make: Toyota Model: Supra Milage: 63,xxxkm Transmission: 6 spd Colour: White Location: Western 'burbs Sydney Complied? Yes RWC supplied? No Currently registered? Yes Price: $34,000 Comments / Modifications:Big brakes Recaro Seats Techone HID Low-beams DBA Slotted Front discs Hawk HP Pads all round Tuneagent Front pipe Tuneagent Mid pipe HKS Dual catback exhaust Walbro GSS-341 HP 255lph fuel pump A'pexi PowerFC A'pexi Power Intake pod filter Braided brake lines (ADR Approved) Turbo timer GReddy lightened pulley set Titan Motorsports Crank Damper + Gates Belt Titan Cam Gears US Spec cam shafts Blitz LM Intercooler (Painted black) GReddy air diversion plate 'RPS Cyn-R-G Segmented Flywheel 'RPS Stage 3 Clutch with Sprung Hub TiAL 50mm BOV Whiteline Spring kit front & rear OEM Bilsteins (rebuilt to AutoX specs and matched with whiteline springs) Unique Automotive "Secret Sauce" Sequential mod (eliminate changeover lag, boost limited to 16psi - no spiking) Volk Racing GT-C 18in (Face 1 front, face 2 rear) BFGoodrich KDW T/A 2 (255 front 295 rear) Maintenance completed: Cam seals Front main seal Rear main seal All transmission seals Rear wheel bearings (complete units changed, hubs & bearings) Serviced religiously - service records can be checked with Paden @ Unique Automotive Included in sale: Stock components: Balancer all pullies Full exhaust Air box Fuel pump intercooler + pipes Aftermarket parts: Whiteline Control arm bushes lower front, lower rear HKS Oil cooler & relocation kit (includes braided lines, etc) Car makes 278kw at wheels Images:

Care to name them or are you just jibber jabbering? Bad handling? What is your idea of bad handling? Just because something might not handle as well as a GTR does not mean it has bad handling. A Supra will outhandle a monaro any day of the week. As has already been stated the Supra was built until 02, the same as the 34 GTR. I'm 6'1 and I have no problems sitting in my Supra, I have a friend who is 6'4 and has no problems sitting in a Supra, so unless you are strangely proportioned, you should fit fine in a Supra. A GTR is a good car, but don't blow your load over it, there are plenty of better cars out there.

Seriously, it sounds like you're just hating on Supra's. The brembos used in a GTR and the Supra 4 pot brakes are hardly leagues apart given proper pads/rotors in your setup. Cooling, again depends how well you develop this, there are aluminium replacement SMIC's for the supra that will provide much better cooling than any FMIC arrangement, again comparing apples to apples there should not be any difference in cooling a charge through either car, as the running lengths of the pipes are not severly different. Hydraulics I can't speak about, but from my own annecdotal experience I have never had any hydraulic fluids fail in any supra's I've raced or had friends race in. Do some research and you'll find that Skylines are JUST as prevalent on US racing circuits as supra's are despite their exclusivity in that market. There are plenty of them kicking around, but due to their much larger population are dispersed quite thinly along the continent. Again, I really don't know what you're on about, the only issue myself, or any competent supra driver will experience in the wet is aquaplaning from the large tyres you can fit under stock guards, it might not be 4wd traction, but I can boost just fine in heavy rain and have the wheels hook up with no wheel spin, that is, unless you're a fan of clutch dumps from a dig. Again, look at the USA, 1000hp at the rears has been done to death on a stock block in a supra, it may not last forever but it's been done enough to know it's a ticking bomb, albeit a much safer one than your 1100bhp gtr on standard block.

All it does is change the voltage going to the ecu from your air temperature sensor, making it think that it's a lower temperature and advance the timing as such. Very dangerous!