Habler

S13 suspension can be made to fit quite easily (just search) if you find it hard to find decent suspension for the R31

Just so you know, R32's do not use camber adjustable tops. I think you might mean pillow ball tops?

I've driven both on the street- Bilsteins- Clearly a better ride on the street Would be my choice for someone wanting great handling on Australian roads Legal Tiens- Jap spec= illegal (aus spec might be ok though, not 100% sure) Felt cheaper in the handling Not over the top spring rates Pillow tops squeek like a bitch (optional) Cheap Large height adjustment for someone wanting looks over handling So obviously i prefered Bilsteins but thats not to say they are right for everyone.

I'll be there. Camel pack in car ready to go

Have you driven rb20e (single cam), rb20de (twin cam), rb25de, ca18i (carby 1.8lt), ca20e just to name a few??? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_skyline That page might help with your quest to drive them all.. Good luck since it looks like you might have only driven a minority of engines the skyline came with!

I have found (as someone with only a few drift days under the belt) that a medium width rim like a 9 inch with 235's (that are second hand) works well on both supplying a tyre that the r33 can spin easily enough in third but being grippy enough that i can grip the car up when it is needed. I watch some of the other worked SR's out there using stock CA rims and cringe at the thought of trying to pull up to avoid an accident. Those guys make a lot of smoke but look out of control.

I guess its always a possiblity but you would think it would take some serious rain for it to get sucked into the intake. Best bet would be to go to your local Nissan workshop and get them to do a diagnostics check. Errors will show up for AFM if it is buggered.

A lot of places WONT do it for obvious reasons... But to answer your question - Do not just disconnect the hicas without a lock bar.

yes i have a two way, extra lock spacers, front strut brace (dont see a point in a rear), caster bushes. I do have a fmic etc but that is besides the point, it has nothing to do with why i am finding my car hard to transition. I understand a 2 way will help with transitions but the problem isnt getting the car sideways, its the weight transfer when sideways. As in transitioning is easy but because of the large amount of quickly shifted weight the transitioning is very violent. Hope that explains the problem a little more Trust33. Anyway back to topic, what Nisskid has said kind of seems how i feel at the moment. That going over the top on stiff springs isnt the solution but that the whiteline ones are just that little too soft for drift. At the moment i run 17 by 235's (8's on front and 9's on rear). Do you have any slightly stiffer springs (for example eibach) Gary? I would like to try a slightly stiffer spring and change my swaybars around without having to sell my bilstein shocks.. Or will this throw the valving etc out the window on my bilsteins?

Thanks Gary, your right in saying sitting on here and talking isn't going to achieve as much as going out and testing but the only real way to properly test drifting is at a track day and in Victoria these are few and far between. I'm trying to use this thread to get some ideas from yourself and other drifters to utilize the next track day and try a few different things with my suspension and maybe technique of driving. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the reply. Hicas is already removed but no rear subframe kit is in (i will look into that). As for swaybars, i have only played with them slightly because of suggestions that pushing everything to hard will make the car become prone to understeer but i will defintly try a few different settings and see what happens. (they are adjustable) So what i can gather from your previous posts is that you wouldnt control body roll with springs but in the case of drifting are stiffer springs NEEDED to become a better driver as aposed to circuit? I understand upgrading stiffer springs will comprimise the street ride but is it just something that might need to be done to reduce the huge amount of weight getting thrown around by the sedan? I'm not talking going "wood plank stiff" but something inbyween what i have and say a japanese coilover?

We took it out only tilting the engine ever so slightly. Getting the top bolt off is hard as bollocks, luckily i had good help You will have to rotate the box almost upside down to get it out as well. Its a big box.

This may have been covered a few times but every topic i seem to find about it seems to miss a few answers or not be exactly what info im looking for so here goes: Obviously for the occasional drifter there needs to be a comprimise between having something that works well on both the track and street. Most people have found there answer to this by buying bilstien/whiteline (SK setup). I currently have the set-up in my r33 of shocks/springs/swaybars/caster bushes. It is one of the best street setups i have driven on and most people who have driven a car with the group buy set-up will agree (some wont). The problem that i seem to have is the car is still having too much roll/ not sitting flat enough while sliding at the track. From the topics i have read most people suggest NOT controlling the roll with stiffer springs (jap coils which would be an obvious suggestion to making the car sit flatter through the corners) but with swaybars. The swaybars are there but linking corners is incredibly hard - when i go one way the weight of the car is all thrown to that side so by linking it back the other i have that weight getting thrown back as well creating a dangerous amount of body roll causing either to loop or for myself to back the drift off to avoid a spin. Watching back on a camera it is easy to see that the car is getting quite a large amount of body roll and it is holding me back from doing faster/longer drifts. So what i want to ask (as dumb as it may seem to others) is what can be done without going down the track of harsh jap coils? Bigger swaybars? (would this create an understeery effect) Stiffer springs? (im unsure of what they would be atm - what ever came in the groupbuy) Or is it a case of drifting is just too different and needs much harder springs/shock combo compared to street and circuit where these bilstein/whiteline work there best? Don't forget i have not being doing track work for very long so its all pretty new to me. Hopefully the guys drifting on this set-up can point out some things i don't know or SK can give his input (even if you dont like drift ) Thanks

Post pics allready!

I just take the intake pipe off.... Less fidly. Especially when you have big buff manly arms like me

It could also be a broken spring in your clutch fluid cylinder. Easy to check - just unbolt it off the firewall and open the sucker up. I broke the pedal bracket in my old 32 like you, welded it up then broke a spring in half in the cylinder. It now has a stronger spring in it.

I'm pretty sure when most cars come over for import they change the seatbelts to Australian standard approved ones so they are not the ones that come on them from factory anyway (although i have seen some complianced cars that havn't had their belts changed). You can pretty much replace the seatbelt with any Australian approved belt which should be easy to get at any local car store. (autopro, repco or even a compliance joint could hook you upi would say) http://www.klippan-safety.se/pages/index_p_belts.html Those are obviously the guys that made your current seatbelt. Its probably worth just getting a brand new one and not worrying about a second hand one to save a few dollars. I mean at the end of the day it is the primary device holding you from smashing your head.

I'm pretty sure when most cars come over for import they change the seatbelts to Australian standard approved ones so they are not the ones that come on them from factory anyway (although i have seen some complianced cars that havn't had their belts changed). You can pretty much replace the seatbelt with any Australian approved belt which should be easy to get at any local car store. (autopro, repco or even a compliance joint could hook you upi would say) http://www.klippan-safety.se/pages/index_p_belts.html Those are obviously the guys that made your current seatbelt. Its probably worth just getting a brand new one and not worrying about a second hand one to save a few dollars. I mean at the end of the day it is the primary device holding you from smashing your head.

A lot of Commodore/Falcons 17" inch rims run 235's so it easy to find still pretty decent tyres at my local tyre fitters to use at pratice days when you can't afford/don't need new tyres. I wouldn't really call putting 235's on a 9 (what i run) stretching though but i know of others who run 235's on bigger rims because they are so cheap to buy good new tyres unlike 255's etc that can cost quite a bit when a small town tyre centre have to order them in for you. But that could also be another reason (if it hasnt been metioned) that people stretch them...

I doubt because an importer says its legal makes it legal... Not knowing enough about the rules i wont comment much further but if a cop wants to kick your arse for it im sure they can. Could come down to needing to have it re-registered as a non-turbo.

I wouldnt be paying 3k for comprehensive. Your going to end up paying your car's price twice over while your still on your P's then if you do stack it - excess on top of that so whats the point? Instead you should just cover yourself with third party and put the extra amount of money you "would" be paying with full comp into a seperate bank account and saving. Then if you do stack you will have enough money to fix your car or if your lucky and never have an accident you will have saved yourself 7k plus added interest if its in a good saving account.

How similar does this photo look to the gold one posted.

There is no emoticon to explain that r33...... But yeah, running your car that low screws you whole idea of having it "covered by insurance and legal" anyway.

Go see a wheel aligner fo sho. They should figure it out pretty quick.

Thats where your flux capacitor plugs into. Seems your missing yours so i wouldnt be suprised if your skyline can't time travel at the moment.