Habler

Different people will give different opinions but unless the car is immaculate, you can see it before you buy it and low kms i wouldnt really see the point of having to go through all the compliance crap. Local r33's which you can inspect beforehand (have a mechanic look over it for $50 even!) are going for around the same price (if not lower) and can be put into your name and drove the same day. So many horrow stories of "mates" getting people cars then the car not being ledgible for complaince or the car having major issues. Dont be fooled into getting a car with a million modifactions imported either as this usually results in you having to spend more money in chasing up stock parts and having to put them all on for complaince/rwc.

Correct me if im wrong but you dont run a airflow meter with a haltec computer? (im probably wrong though!) If you do run one though, it could easily just be that it isnt plugged in right/wired right. Seen it happen on my old 32

I live in Horsham and have a RB25

In hope that this happened to someone else before and they can direct me straight to the problem i thought i would post up on here before going any further with trying to figure it out myself. the problem: A few days ago i parked my car in a tight one way street. I came back half an hour later and switched the car on. As i went to do a 3 point turn in the tight little street my horn started going off!!! everytime i turned my steering wheel past 45 degrees the horn would blast. I pulled the horn plugs out and drove it home. I have not had time to look at it yet and can only make guesses as why it is doing it. If this has happened to anyone out there or if someone can assume what the problem would be pretty well it would be appreciated if you would post it up. Car: R33 - airbag equiped steering wheel (which makes me not want to rush into anything to do with the steering wheel) Cheers

There was a thread not long ago with all the answers you are looking for. Try a search and im sure you'll come across it. Sorry I'm too lazy to find it myself and link you

A mate of mine got an aftermarket metal one. It was costly for what it is (a metal sheet with one bend and some bolt holes) Easy solution was to get a metal fabricator to copy the design and make one up for us. This ended up costing $20 per piece with no bolt holes. You then put bearing blue on on the bolts while they are in the holes and push your metal sheet up on to it and WELLAH! Drill out the spots where the bearing blue has touched. Our metal sheets ended up fitting both skylines and s13's with the bolt holes just being in different places. I have seen places charging $150 for these, well worth just working one out yourself maybe using your plastic one as an indicator. But got to agree with bolts and tools falling on it = ANNOYING

I have a metal one under mine.... But thats to protect the sump from the evil ripple strips

Any updates on the PFC? Im in suspense!

The same

As all of above but incase that doesnt help - have you removed the hicas computer in the boot? If so that could be the problem as it does not need to be removed. I have read on here a few times of people unplugging their computers and describing same problems as you.

Here is a few pics of my sedan from winton for the first time and a couple from when i was installing an oil cooler. This was Crispy Fries sedan before i got it. Its undergone a few changes mainly relating to performance and realibility for the track. The main parts on it atm- Greedy FMIC HKS filter relocation kit/oil cooler with earl and speedflow fittings Kaaz 2 way diff Work VS 17's (8's on front 9's on rear) I run 235's on front and rear for track use Defi Din guages (oil temp, oil press, water temp) Whiteline swaybars Whiteline castor bushes (running 7 degrees) Bilstein shocks/whiteline spring combo Whiteline front strut brace K'N pod filter in Hi Octane heat sheild box with custom cai 4 point Harness Batmbl spilt dump/front Hi flow cat Trust twin tip exhuast Hicas lock bar Custom sump bashplate Thats all that i can remember off the top of my head. Slowly will start to change the suspension now that i have had a proper track day under me. Im hoping to still retain its nice streetability and not go too track orientated. Then from there i hope to improve in the looks department BUT never having a cop look at you is very nice while im still on my P's!!!

Another brilliant write up

ahaha i live near Ballarat and when i was looking for a r33 sedan i noticed quite a few for sale in Ballarat. There was two almost identical gunmetal ones, both auto, both around the same kms, both stock for sale there!! only difference was a spoiler. Do you guys ever go cruising Grampians way? As in on the Halls Gap pass etc? I used to love cruising up there but am not so confident to go there in my sedan now that it has a 2 way...

You have bought a RB20 but then you ask how much they are worth? Wouldnt you already have an idea having already got one? Secondly your other SPAM thread states you are selling all these parts etc yet from this thread i would take it that you dont know much at all about what your selling combined with not knowing how much a RB20 is worth and not knowing anyone that can fit one.... I CAUTION EXTREME CAUTION TO ANYONE BUYING ANYTHING FROM YOU!

Halfway is where it is meant to sit.... The stock guage defintly isnt "fantastic" nor should you use it as a full idication of your water temp but saying that, mine has saved me on one occasion! If it is starting off on cold then going to halfway once the car is up to temp then obviously it is working. It shouldnt move unless your car seriously starts to overheat. I have also heard it wont move slowly but just quickly and by this time you could be doing some serious damage to the engine. So if your having cooling issues i would defintly suggest getting an aftermarket guage. They are not really that costly and are easy to install.... well when you compare it to the price of a new engine due to overheating anyway

Is the 32 one hydrualic? As i remember adjusting it on both my 32's..... And not just a bit, but a significant difference. (this is inside at the pedal)

Iridiums might not be the best suggestion for a car that is modified as from memory they do not give as a good of a spark as a copper tiped sparkplug. From the research i have done it is highly suggested you change- copper tips at around 8000kms give or take (around >$30 for a set) iridums can last up to 100,00kms but suggested to change them every 40,000kms anyway (nissan OG's - $100) The way i see it - you could probably leave your oil for more than 5000kms and it might be fine... But why risk having shit oil going through your engine? So why risk having a faulty plug in your engine? i mean its not that much to change them every 50,000 or so is it?

I put a bosch 040 in my 33...worked a treat so far. And preety much silent! (it will be loud if you dont install it properly) You dont have to tweak anything managment wise But you will have to slightly mod your bracket and cut a bit off the fuel line that connects to the pump but thats easy to do. There are step by step tutes on this website to guide you through it easy! A new pump is a better idea than a used 10 year old GTR pump. Worth the extra cash IMO

Also are you 100% sure the radiator is the reason your car is overheating? Were you losing mass amounts of coolant, if so where from?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...eeding+radiator http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...eeding+radiator http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=179099 If you cant figure it out from those topics try searching more, im sure there would be a DYI topic with picture/word by word tute...but it is preety straight forward.

The air bubble problem is preety common. When i sold my old 32 to a mate after a while of having it he noticed it was losing coolant. We located the loss of coolant to the water pump...(followed the drip) Apprently the waterpump will leak coolant out slowly when it is on its way out to indicate it is stuffed. He got it fixed and replaced at a local workshop but when i went to the workshop to pick it up with him i noticed that they were flat out and had obviously only squeezed his car in between jobs. Anyway the point is a day later he took the car for a drive and it started overheating! Luckily he was driving near my house and pulled in. My brother was home and took a look at it. There were a few problems- the top radiator hose was not fitted properly but also the raditor seemed as though it had just been filled and nothing else. It is important to get as much of the air as you can out of the lines etc when changing radiator fluid. This is SIMPLE on a RB because they have a screw on top of the block that you crack open and leak air out of while running the car. With 32's im preety sure you have to run the heater at full while doing as well (the rb25 shouldnt need this done from memory). When doing mine i also tape a coke bottle with the bottom chopped off into the raditor upside down and run the car. When the car hits temp and opens the thermostat you can see HEAPS of air bubling out into the coke bottle and you just have to keep topping the radiator up as the air comes out. I was suprised how much extra fluid i put in after running the car likes this for 10 minutes. It would have been nearly another 1/2 litre! Anyway this may not help you but just a word of advice. Also i stole this idea of filling the raditor off Simon so you know its good

I dont usually just post useless stuff in for sale threads but.............. WOW.......... thats a great price for what looks to be a mint car> Imagine the potential it has!

post a pic of what they look like

Those Continentals looked perfect fit in 205's.... I dont think there was any real issue when you were running 225's on the rear for the street but when you go to winton i would just be using the 205's. From my personel experince stretching the tyre just a bit (235 on a 9" rim) made a noticable difference from my street 255's. It felt much nicer overall. I would like to test a 225 on my 9" but the 235's are so easy and cheap to get my hands on. Also different tyre brands vary so much - 235 bridgestone is more stretched than say a 235 nankang etc. for example Might be worth trying a 195, 205 and a 225 before the track day to see what feels right? Or buying some wider rims

I like my shocks like my women...European