Habler

PM replied. Still for sale.

Apexi SAFCII Black Model which imo looks a lot better Here is some info on what the SAFC does in case you don't know- "The second-generation S-AFC is a fuel computer that adjusts fuel/air ratio by modifying the air-flow meter/MAP sensor signal. The S-AFC features a user-definable, eight-point, adjustable fuel curve that can be set in 500 RPM increments. The range of fuel adjustment is +/- 50% at each of the user-defined setting points. On hot-wire vehicles, the Deceleration Air Flow Correction function is capable of curing the erratic idle and stall problems associated with open-atmosphere blow-off valves on hot-wire air-flow meter systems. The S-AFC is capable of monitoring and replaying the following data channels in Numerical, Analog Meter and Graph displays: Intake Manifold Vacuum/Boost Pressure, Air Flow Capacity, Intake Manifold Pressure, Karmann Frequency, Engine RPM, Throttle Position, and Air Flow Correction %." The unit is in good condition and has hardly been used. It comes with the original box and instructions as well as a STAND. These are still being sold for $560 new plus extra for the stand. $299 delivered anywhere in Australia. *This isn't an actual photo of the mine but it shows you what it looks like.

Price dropped to $7200 and 12 months rego added.

http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/home/5 (scroll down a bit) Are you talking about those ones?

Quote from Cazman on NS "They run a diff upper arm, I have no idea if the metal upright comes off the cast hub and swaps tho" I sat the two next to each other last week and they were very, very similar. Can't really guarantee they will fit though sorry. Here are a few pics of r33 knuckles (the shorter ones have been modded) to maybe help.

Could I get mine changed to Habler thanks.

^^^ ahahah probably. Terrible memory.

Sedan to coupe defiantly are and I am confident non-turbo/turbo would be as well. Off the top of my head I think they add around a degree or so. Its a cheap alternative to camber arms to gain that extra bit in the front.

I was under the impression they were actually quite cheap from Nissan? Have you tried calling your local Nissan to check?| I have got front tie rod ends from Repco/Bursons before so probably worth giving them a call.

Wow, some good shots in there. Plenty of smoke ahahah

Probably make drifting a hell of a lot easier.

Not sure why knuckles and that would make it shit for hills or grip orientated stuff? Once you adjust to the steering input needed it shouldn't be different except that you now have super-human parking skills If you want to go back to stock lock take the tie rod spacers out. If you want the lock you have now leave the tie rod spacers in and get a set of Nigels rack spacers (around $290). There is no point in running the rack spacers if your not running the tie rod spacers. As for the clearance issue, if it isn't much, just run a slimmer tyre or slip on spacer. If you are having troubles with the tie rod spacers and havn't really drifted much then I wouldn't be bothering with knuckles. Go out there and have fun and upgrade in the future if you find yourself reaching the capabilities of your lock. Edit- Why no PS steering??? 32 yeah?

Here is some updated photos of the whale so you know she is still loved

Here a few of mine from the day. Thanks for the photos Jarrod, will be in contact shortly for some.

This is a picture of one installed. All the info you need about them is in this thread...amongst the 40 or so pages lol http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...823&st=1080 Hope you like reading.

If binding is an issue look into Nigels rack spacers. He sells them separately and they should help your problem.

This is pretty close to my full lock with only 5mm lock spacers on the 33.

Did you figure out what rims your going to end up going pending on getting your knuckles done Nisskid. I think I read you were going to have issues.

I am tired and not thinking very well but if you wheel is hitting something now (like LCA or chassis) knuckles will not solve the problem as your rim is already hitting with the limited lock. You need to figure out what and where is hitting so you can fix it. If it is just the knuckle knob thing hitting LCA lock stop then yes, modifying knuckles and/or LCA will get you more lock but then you may run into other issues of hitting depending on offset, tyre etc. My R33 knuckles are getting modified today by Nigel. Should have them in soon but the next drift day isn't till December for me to try them out Edit. Forgot to mention Nigel also supplies spacers that help with binding issues. They aren't cheap but look like a must when wanting that extra lock.

Sorry DRD-00F, I must have just got in before you this morning. Money has been deposited for them.

http://www.gktech.com.au/products/index.asp?ID=137 That is what I would recommend. Mine was just bent up by a local metal fabricator and cost $20 but it's no use really giving you his name as he is 4 hours away from you. The s13 was exactly the same as the R33 except different bolt holes were needed so I presume the R34 would be similar with different bolt holes needing to be drilled.

http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...riesstiffening/ Few to look at there. Last time I was in there they had a tri-brace for an R33 which is kind of cool looking I guess. Maybe ask them about that. I have a whiteline one that came on the car. I bent it slightly, not the bar but the actual strut top brace the bar is attached to. Sooo.... I am not happy with it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ch4ser Some good pictures of your 33 in there Dean http://www.vimeo.com/6489483 iDrifts video

I will post it up when i get a chance. My camera was acting up so not sure exactly how much I actually ended up getting. It was nice to meet you Zaver but a word of advice- you gotta be real careful and keep your eyes out when you spin or go off track! One time you went off the track behind the front bunker and a group of 5 of us came screaming around on to the front straight only to have to all brake and spin our cars because you pulled back on the track in front of us when you should have probably waited until we had passed. Just be aware of what the cars in front of you and behind you are doing and maybe get a bit more practice in before jumping in the tandem line. How did you go with your bash plate anyway?

Thanks, can't wait to see the pics.