Habler

R33 Kakimoto aftermarket exhuast - Quality Japanese goodness giving you uber JDM street cred - Jasma approved - 3 inch from catback with 4/4.5 inch tip - mid muffler is dented on one side (as shown in picture) so it's not up to autosalon spec but does not look like it would make any difference to flow. - few other scratches and dents but if your not worried about looks than this is the exhuast for you! - comes with the rubber hangers I am in country Victoria but will deliver to anywhere in Australia at buyers cost. $200

I'm guessing an elephant didn't sit on the front of it.... lol

Thanks! They are a pretty nice, subtle looking skirt. Similar if not the same design as Mattysaidso's. The front bar is very different

mind chucking up a photo of them on your car?

What toffy said sums it up, about both things... http://www.autoworx.com.au sell rear 4 door pods that would set off the factory aero look if you wanted keep that "not over the top" look about it that you have going with the factory side skirts. I have not seen any lower lip extensions or rear bars that do not really need bigger skirts and front bar (as in only slightly bigger than stock) anywhere. They also do Final Konnexion kits which arn't crazy bargo large - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...33-t215946.html I have a very similar (if not the same) secondhand rear bar sitting in my backyard if anyone is interested in it. *just noticed autoworx are updating there website and don't currently have the styling stuff listed... Probably easiest to give them a call.

I think it was a New Zealand based car.

Pm sent.

32's are hotness... but anyway

I think you might be just making mountains out of mole hills on this one. People pointing out that you can get cheaper prices than SK is not sniping... It's just being helpful. No one questioned their track-ability, no one questioned SK's R& D and no one questioned the prices 4 years ago. I know the interwebz is hard to interpret tone but I think you'll find people are merely just helping forum members get quality, cheap suspension. Don't take it so personally.

SS8 Gohan people asked for an alternative place to buy suspension and people were given options while being noted that it is possible to get it cheaper than SK's group buy as I think this was a lot of people's worries. Nobody had a go at SK for his prices it was just pointed out to fellow skyline owners there are alternatives that are cheaper. As for SK names being dragged down for no reason? Your a complete fool. Re-read the thread or the other numerous threads where SK has done his old "disappearance" act with peoples money. The lies, no communication and utter bullshit a lot of people had to put up with is a few of the reasons his name was dragged down. You point out how good the suspension is but no one argued that.... You missed the entire point and then you go and drag another companies name down without offering any sort of explanation but just your personnel view. f**king hypocritical much?

Post some pics

I have found plenty of them at wreckers but most have wanted $100 per shield. Couldn't justify the cost but if you can give the wreckers in Adelaide a call. Plenty of them around.

Can we get a grammar and spelling evaluation from Iron Chef?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...te-t227079.html Epic spelling.

Another victim of pedders Best advice I can give is don't go back there. I swear to god you could take a brand new car in to them and they would tell you that everything needs replacing. In the rare case that things do need replacing who the wants to pay them overpriced slobs to do it with their overpriced crap? The $1700 you are going to spend on replacement shocks could be much better spent getting some bilsteins sourced by yourself. http://www.heasmans.com.au/bilstein/about/index.html Those guys will be able to help you out with upgraded, aftermarket suspension at the same cost as pedders charges for shit stock replacement shocks.

Lock spacers can help with this. Will only cost $20 plus a wheel alignment once you have installed them. Heaps of placers sell them but I just grabbed some URAS ones off Trent - http://www.statustuning.com/?section=contact As for your other question a hicas lock bar will not change anything with your turning circle.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/85038-hks-kansa...controller.html HKS Kansai Active E-TS ATTESA Controller??

Some I have used recently 595 Federals: Feather up pretty bad but doesn't really matter on the rear. Also cheap. Some people choose to run them backwards. Hankook Ventus 104s: Secondhand and no delam problems. Average grip levels. Lasted well. Assorted Toyos: Turned to butter once really hot and became very slippery. Lasted quite well but did start to delam once really hot. Any Bridgestone: As everyone has said delam. Apparently if you run them through certain heat cycles they wont but why bother. Intensa: delam, last 2 laps on low powered car, average grip

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/This-t191755.html eeiko is on the money- disconnect battery.

Well not if the spring is broken but every skyline and silvia I have driven has had the little hesitation of not going into reverse at times. Sometimes just requires patience.

This thread could only be redeemed if NISMO posts a high res copy of his avatar

Maybe read the thread properly next time before posting. Even if it has been stated before sale that the wastegate is set to a certain point from factory the OP has no idea what this is. He even went far as to presume where it should be set (0.9 to 1.2). That's a big presumption since the factory setting could be exactly where it was below 6psi. As I previously said this would make sense so idiots like you and him don't go chucking on HKS turbos without first checking the settings then blowing your engine and crying over that instead! I say the guy is lucky to have only had to spend $900 instead of paying for a new engine. Also.... how can it be a wasted $900??? Firstly the OP said it cost him $900 to have his mechanic take off a front bar and a few pipes then went on to say "that included dyno time, original fitting etc" so either it cost him much much less to fix the problems of the actuators (tops... it should take a qualified mechanic an hour to tighten two actuators and put everything back on a bad day) or he is getting ripped off hard!!! Not by CJ but by his mechanic. I should really stop posting.. nothing i say seems to be sinking in.

Biggest problem is that people run them in wrong or expect no noises at all like their standard diffs. When your running it in and doing the figure 8s you have to clutch in before turning then clutch out when your fully straight again. If you are going out and just doing figure 8s and not using the clutch chances are it will be noisy. I have been drifting/driving daily on my kaaz diff for over a year and a half and it does not make a noise apart from the lock up clunks on a tight slow turn or the shudder clunks when reversing out and playing with the clutch. But they are expected because they mean the diff is doing its job.

Pretty common amongst skylines and silvias. Usually you can just put it back into neutral, let the clutch out and try again and it goes in... usually....