Kinks

Yes it's being well looked after by the looks of it . Berowra.

Saw some SAU history on my morning walk today, memories of all you lot came flooding back too. Happy New Year, peeps.. hope everyone's doing well!

yeah that's a shame.. shipping would be exxy though :) Incidentally, car is SOLD :)

Price drop $13,000

Price Drop $15,000 with 12 months rego

Price drop $17,500

SOLD

Have daily driven this car for the last 4.5 years and it has always been dependable and fun. Car has a genuine 215,000km on it (photo showing 210k was taken in April). Suspension refreshed shortly after purchase with Bilstein shocks, Whiteline adjustable anti-roll bars, and bushes replaced as required. Added Adaptronic ECU and dyno'd at 176rwkw in 2015. Since then added Blitz return-flow cooler and Fujitsubo straight-through cat-back exhaust which sounds great and breathes really well. AFRs were checked with wideband sensor after the last mods. 200,000km major service done on time, full timing belt service AND valve clearances adjusted (at considerable expense, but the head is very quiet). Motor has very low oil usage as well, much better even than my previous R33. These Neo motors are great units. Body condition is good but not pristine, after all it's a 19 year old car. Bonnet has some light scratches and small crack in front bar that could be easily repaired with some fibreglassing, unfortunately my schedule doesn't leave much time for tinkering these days. It has a genuine Nismo body-kit and rear wing supports, which I'm told is quite an expensive addon and is very tasteful and unique. Daytime running lights added which fit the aesthetics of the car perfectly. Genuine enquiries only please, test drives will only be available to serious buyers with a deposit. Blitz return flow intercooler JJR stainless dump pipe 5" High flow metal cat Fujitsubo stainless catback exhaust Adaptronic ECU Spitfire coil packs Bilstein shocks Whiteline anti-roll bars Suspension bushes replaced Driftworks total HICAS eliminator Genuine Nismo body-kit Bluetooth/DAB+ head unit Xenon HID lights Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) AGM battery $19,500 Also advertised elsewhere Contact Geoff on 0435 325 647

4 x R34 GTT wheels (17x7.5) and 50% worn Kumho KU36. Wheels have been painted black. Slicks have had 1 track day and some light street use. $400. Pickup from Northern Beaches.

I had an Innovate LC-2 and 4.2 sensor in my car for about a year before it started acting up. Two symptoms were Erratic AFR readings (jumping randomly between 10:1 and 20:1 when at stable cruise) Sensor would stick in warm-up state and never show valid readings I went through several emails with Innovate tech support which were frustrating. They basically blamed everything they could about my setup and when I proved I was operating it within its specifications they simply replied with "RMA it and our fee starts from $45". Since it was out of warranty I left it alone for ages, recently I tried replacing the sensor with a 4.9 unit and that worked for about a week before it went back to its old tricks - same as above. When they work they're great but seeing bogus readings on something as important as an AFR gauge is an immediate deal-breaker for me. I've pulled it out and it's going in the bin.

Sure, none of us want to spend extra money but if your coil packs are buggered or you spent $400 when you should have spent $600 then the only way out is to spend $600. Not $500 or $400. Always buy Splitfires at minimum. Do not try and go cheaper. You will only end up opening your wallet again to buy what you should have bought the first time.

Work out your economy in L/100km. Saying "to a tank" is useless. Are you filling up after using 60L? 55L? 40L?

awful alarms. nowhere near as good as the autowatch I had in my last car

You want moderate RPM (3-5k) and high cylinder pressure (ie full throttle). Combustion pressure pushes the rings against the cylinder walls. Warm up the engine to full operating temperature by gentle driving first. Then do full throttle from 3k to 5k RPM. Drive gently for a while then do it again. Repeat a few times giving the engine light throttle in between. You really only have about 50-100km after a fresh rebuild do this, after which it makes very little difference. Of course if your engine builder gives different instructions you'd be wise to follow it, they may know more than me

Don't cheap out on exhausts. I spent $450 on a catback once that was f**king awful. It was so bad I chopped it up with an angle grinder rather than attempting to sell it again.

The magical pixies in the standard ECU are smarter than you give them credit for. I was getting fault code 21 for a couple of weeks for no apparent reason and then suddenly I lost a cylinder at light cruise. That cylinder would then come and go intermittently. Replaced coil packs with a brightly coloured aftermarket brand, and they seemed OK until a dyno day when they started misfiring. Replaced with Splitfires, and they've been great.

Do it. I love seeing people waste their time and money.

bite point change means clutch pivot bolt may have failed. common thing. search for it slight noise with clutch out is normal

Use a bellmouth dump pipe. The separated ones (if you bought a cheap one, which you likely did) are shit.

https://thenack.com/2015/12/raspberry-pi-car-shield/ The pics are a bit old (have switched to the official 7" touchscreen).

My HICAS tried to pitch me off the road (and towards 2 cyclists who were riding along the road shoulder). Very unnerving, and that was only 60km/h. The rear steering went hard right until it hit the end stop, and then faulted like that. If that had happened at 110 it would have been nasty. If I'd been on a racetrack doing 180... yikes. I used to be an advocate for HICAS but hearing more reports of them failing in this way (and having it happen to me) has changed my mind. Install a driftworks HICAS lock bar (they are the only one that warranty their pillowball bearings) and move on with your life. Pillowball bearings are illegal (at least in NSW) because of their abrupt failure modes but rear wheel steering is a very light load compared with having them in other suspension components so they should last quite a long time. I painted mine black so they don't stand out, but if I'm pulled up about them I will happily discuss the questionable safety of keeping the factory system vs modifying my car to be safe. Otherwise, install a kit that maintains the stock tie rods and ball joints. My ball joints were wearing out anyway so I bought a kit that replaced everything.

check the ECU fault codes. search the forums for how, you can put it in diag mode and look at the blink pattern of the check engine light. it sounds like your coil packs are shot, but worth changing spark plugs first gapped to 0.8mm since it's cheaper than coil packs

I have an Innovate LC-2 connected to my Adaptronic and displayed via a custom Raspberri PI solution. The sensor is located in the recommended position about 30cm in front of my cat. The LC-2 semi-regularly fails to acquire lock (the status LED stays flashing in warm-up mode) for an entire drive, or will occasionally find a lock after driving for 30-45 minutes. Other times, when it's working properly, I can start the car from dead cold in the morning and it has acquired lock and showing me AFRs in about 10 seconds. I would not buy one again, the reliability is poor. This kind of thing should work 100% of the time. I emailed Innovate to ask them about it and was ignored. No vendor support = why bother.

Low frequency components (~120Hz) seem to be the main frequencies transmitted into the cabin and the source of exhaust drone. An uninterrupted exhaust diameter from front to back (think 3" straight through) seems to be prone to resonances around low frequencies. The only way to break up the low frequency resonance is to make the length of the constant 3" section shorter. The way of doing this is by changing the exhaust diameter in the middle with a full size centre muffler. This is why basically every quiet exhaust has a full size centre muffler. A hotdog resonator in the middle won't do much, they are too small to change the pipe tuning. I had a Fujitsubo catback in my R33 and it had full size centre and rear mufflers, very quiet system. I'm about to buy something very similar for my R34.