Kinks

I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing. I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂

yeah, that happens too. I'm really enjoying 4WDing at the moment, seen a few beautiful spots and want to go explore more of this enormous country. The 370Z got a clutch LSD in it and a track day, great fun. Getting the back end sorted out really rejuvenated my enthusiasm for driving it hard, the viscous one is poo especially in such a short and wide chassis. The VLSD unpredictability was more benign in a long and skinny Skyline.

Only took me 2.5 months to respond to the password reset email.. Haven't been regular on here since I sold the R34 GTT and bought a 370Z. Also added a GU Patrol (CRD ZD30) 18 months ago to go places that would upset the 370Z. They're both great fun, I certainly do miss having an RB though.

Came for OP's reintroduction, stayed for the GU discussion. I've owned a ZD30 for 18 months and it hasn't even blown up once! The only thing that would sound better than an RB30DETT is an OM606 but they don't exist here. G'day to familiar faces!

Yes it's being well looked after by the looks of it . Berowra.

Saw some SAU history on my morning walk today, memories of all you lot came flooding back too. Happy New Year, peeps.. hope everyone's doing well!

yeah that's a shame.. shipping would be exxy though :) Incidentally, car is SOLD :)

Price drop $13,000

Price Drop $15,000 with 12 months rego

Price drop $17,500

SOLD

Have daily driven this car for the last 4.5 years and it has always been dependable and fun. Car has a genuine 215,000km on it (photo showing 210k was taken in April). Suspension refreshed shortly after purchase with Bilstein shocks, Whiteline adjustable anti-roll bars, and bushes replaced as required. Added Adaptronic ECU and dyno'd at 176rwkw in 2015. Since then added Blitz return-flow cooler and Fujitsubo straight-through cat-back exhaust which sounds great and breathes really well. AFRs were checked with wideband sensor after the last mods. 200,000km major service done on time, full timing belt service AND valve clearances adjusted (at considerable expense, but the head is very quiet). Motor has very low oil usage as well, much better even than my previous R33. These Neo motors are great units. Body condition is good but not pristine, after all it's a 19 year old car. Bonnet has some light scratches and small crack in front bar that could be easily repaired with some fibreglassing, unfortunately my schedule doesn't leave much time for tinkering these days. It has a genuine Nismo body-kit and rear wing supports, which I'm told is quite an expensive addon and is very tasteful and unique. Daytime running lights added which fit the aesthetics of the car perfectly. Genuine enquiries only please, test drives will only be available to serious buyers with a deposit. Blitz return flow intercooler JJR stainless dump pipe 5" High flow metal cat Fujitsubo stainless catback exhaust Adaptronic ECU Spitfire coil packs Bilstein shocks Whiteline anti-roll bars Suspension bushes replaced Driftworks total HICAS eliminator Genuine Nismo body-kit Bluetooth/DAB+ head unit Xenon HID lights Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) AGM battery $19,500 Also advertised elsewhere Contact Geoff on 0435 325 647

4 x R34 GTT wheels (17x7.5) and 50% worn Kumho KU36. Wheels have been painted black. Slicks have had 1 track day and some light street use. $400. Pickup from Northern Beaches.

I had an Innovate LC-2 and 4.2 sensor in my car for about a year before it started acting up. Two symptoms were Erratic AFR readings (jumping randomly between 10:1 and 20:1 when at stable cruise) Sensor would stick in warm-up state and never show valid readings I went through several emails with Innovate tech support which were frustrating. They basically blamed everything they could about my setup and when I proved I was operating it within its specifications they simply replied with "RMA it and our fee starts from $45". Since it was out of warranty I left it alone for ages, recently I tried replacing the sensor with a 4.9 unit and that worked for about a week before it went back to its old tricks - same as above. When they work they're great but seeing bogus readings on something as important as an AFR gauge is an immediate deal-breaker for me. I've pulled it out and it's going in the bin.

Sure, none of us want to spend extra money but if your coil packs are buggered or you spent $400 when you should have spent $600 then the only way out is to spend $600. Not $500 or $400. Always buy Splitfires at minimum. Do not try and go cheaper. You will only end up opening your wallet again to buy what you should have bought the first time.

Work out your economy in L/100km. Saying "to a tank" is useless. Are you filling up after using 60L? 55L? 40L?

awful alarms. nowhere near as good as the autowatch I had in my last car

You want moderate RPM (3-5k) and high cylinder pressure (ie full throttle). Combustion pressure pushes the rings against the cylinder walls. Warm up the engine to full operating temperature by gentle driving first. Then do full throttle from 3k to 5k RPM. Drive gently for a while then do it again. Repeat a few times giving the engine light throttle in between. You really only have about 50-100km after a fresh rebuild do this, after which it makes very little difference. Of course if your engine builder gives different instructions you'd be wise to follow it, they may know more than me

Don't cheap out on exhausts. I spent $450 on a catback once that was f**king awful. It was so bad I chopped it up with an angle grinder rather than attempting to sell it again.

The magical pixies in the standard ECU are smarter than you give them credit for. I was getting fault code 21 for a couple of weeks for no apparent reason and then suddenly I lost a cylinder at light cruise. That cylinder would then come and go intermittently. Replaced coil packs with a brightly coloured aftermarket brand, and they seemed OK until a dyno day when they started misfiring. Replaced with Splitfires, and they've been great.

Do it. I love seeing people waste their time and money.

bite point change means clutch pivot bolt may have failed. common thing. search for it slight noise with clutch out is normal

Use a bellmouth dump pipe. The separated ones (if you bought a cheap one, which you likely did) are shit.

https://thenack.com/2015/12/raspberry-pi-car-shield/ The pics are a bit old (have switched to the official 7" touchscreen).