Kinks

A very good idea in general, but often it is hard to hear when you've got a helmet on. This. I used to be paranoid about turbo motors but they will handle it if you have looked after it properly. 1) Fresh oil, put an extra 500mL in and go a touch heavier in oil thickness than usual but only if you will do several laps at full noise. I recommend something like 5W-40 for general street use and some light "exercise". Last track day I did I put 5W-50 in which is probably overkill but gives you peace of mind - the oil won't break down unless you go way too far on temperatures. 2) Make sure water levels are fine and that your radiator is in good nick. I did a track day once on a blocked radiator (mechanics mixed red and green coolant without my knowledge) and it got a bit toasty. I now have a thicker than stock aluminium radiator and have no qualms about giving it more stick. There is a standard water to oil heat exchanger which is intended to warm up your oil on cold start, to a degree this will also help keep a lid on oil temperatures if your water temps are solid (ie water temp 85C oil temp 120C the oil is going to be dumping heat back into the cooling system which then dumps it out via the radiator). 3) Don't limiter bash it. Accelerate smoothly up to just before redline and then change gears. Don't leave it off throttle just below redline, ie corner entry.. I try not to be off throttle above 6k RPM as much as possible, use your brakes to slow the car down not the engine (I only break this rule when I really need to be in that gear for corner exit) 4) Make sure the fluids are warm before you flog it, and give it an easy lap to cool down before you come back in. Check the car throughout the day for any leaking fluids, temperature problems or something that doesn't look right. 5) brakes. fresh pads and rotors in good nick. make sure you bed them in at least a week or two before the track day. new brake fluid before a day is a MUST - DOT4 or super DOT4 or DOT5.1. Do not use DOT5 as it doesn't handle water ingress well and has a very short lifetime inside the braking system. DOT5 is only for cars that are frequently tracked and fluid changed. With proper care I had no problems giving it full noise for a full 20 minute session. Car loved it. Of course, if you are running a lot more power than standard and you have done nothing to help your engine keep cool then you will be in trouble. Nissan designed everything just fine for standard power levels, but people wonder why they get a 280rwkw tune, do 10 hot laps on the stock radiator with no oil cooler and pop a motor. Not rocket science, more power = more heat. Gotta get rid of it! Stock power levels are fine with stock equipment.

wow, what a bunch of idiots. GTR driver included, driving unrego'd is brainless. glad SAU is way way better than this!

This assumes you have fixed on a tuner first. If you haven't then research the best ECU choice for your needs and then ask who is the best at tuning them. If they are a reputable shop then go for it.

i've had a single YJ "fail" as well - it wasn't a total failure but after 2 weeks it started breaking up on boost. performance-wise swapped it for me immediately, great service. considering they're half the price of any other option on the market... it's still a win - even if you are unlucky you know it will get sorted out ASAP.

I gotta say I've never noticed any benefit from using upper engine cleaner. Any minor benefit it seems to have is gone after a day or two. Track day? different story. drives smoother for weeks. RB's are built for stretching their legs, if you get them carboned up by pootling down to the shops it's time to book some motorsport action. after the last track day the inside of my exhaust was actually white. got so hot it burned the carbon off all the way to the exhaust tip. nice.

That's the problem with ignorance. Some people just keep re-stating the same point of view until people with actual knowledge get frustrated at the lack of rational discussion, throw their hands in the air and give up. Then the ignoramus thinks they've "won" and continues to spout rubbish ad nauseum. This thread will continue until all the people with technical knowledge have given up and all we have left is "my cousin's left handed inbred sister's boyfriend's VL commodore made 400hp with a cut and shut plenum so it must be OK". Whatever.

indeed, also see my signature.

Got driver/passenger front wheel arch inner guards? (the black plastic bits) intake crossover pipe? location? (PM me)

Nissan's priorities and the enthusiasts' priorities are somewhat different. Nissan wants to sell as many cars as possible and get as little warranty work in return, and they also have to pass pesky legal things like emissions and safety legislation. Fuel economy is also an important part of a car's marketing. Enthusiasts want to get as much power out as possible, so a lot of those compromises Nissan makes goes out the window. My point is that when you throw a cut and shut plenum, big turbo and some random injectors onto an RB, go to your tuner and pay as little as possible for a tune because you spent it all on mods, that you shouldn't be surprised that maybe the tuner gets close to your power goal but your emissions are woeful, so's your fuel economy and the motor doesn't last anywhere near as long as it should. The big problem with cut and shut plenums is upsetting the balance of airflow between cylinders. Of course, if you simply throw fuel at the motor so that your average AFR is rich then the leanest cylinder (typically #6 since the air has momentum and will tend to flow along the back wall of a front-facing plenum) will still be OK. But the engine is definitely far from optimised. This is where it comes down to "doing it right" with the proper knowledge and just slapping a bunch of parts together with a power figure in mind and nothing else. As GTSBoy has said, invariably when people say "FFP works" you ask them if they've had individual cylinder EGT measurement on their exhaust manifold and the answer is "no" - they just threw enough fuel at it to keep it more or less happy and moved on to the next customer.

With an attitude like this it's no wonder people kill motors. "Cut and shut plenum she'll be right mate" "The air will get in there somehow it'll be right mate" "Give me a rich power tune she'll be right mate" "I fitted one and my engine is 'fine' mate" As an engineer myself I feel sorry for GTSBOY in this discussion. When you are actually designing something properly, "she'll be right" is an omission you don't know what the f&ck you're on about. He's doing his best to share knowledge and coming up against "let's bolt these 2 things together and see what happens". RB's have a lot of margin in the design, that's why we see unopened RB25DET's doing 300rwkw all day long. If done PROPERLY there is no reason why this can't be reliable and have good longevity. But stick a shitty plenum in it, do a quick tune at 10:1 that ends up washing down the bores with petrol and you end up with a motor that eventually dies. It's the margin that lets you "she'll be right" it and you will get away with it.. for a while.. but the engine is not happy.

but bro, my mate Habib said it would be fully sik and give me 20kw more powah! how can you argue with THAT.

far out Duncan, your throttle control sucks!

tailshafts don't chatter they just explode. don't ask how I know. not in an R33 thankfully it's probably suspension or subframe movement, lots of cars do it. usually it just means you've been a big girls blouse and haven't broken traction properly. half-arsed = chatter.

Don't worry mate, I agree with your sentiments exactly. If people want to screw up their cylinder balance that's their prerogative. It is just a big flashing RUN AWAY sign if I see a car like that, I instantly know the owner has taken many other shortcuts. Mostly I just feel sorry for the car. Nissans deserve better.

changed your fuel pump? or maybe the internal check valve has failed.. stock pumps have a check valve as do some aftermarkets. I know for a fact that bosch 040 has no check valve and I had hard-starting problems as soon as I put one in. had to pull it out and put a speedflow check valve in just above the pump and it has started first time every time since then.

You don't need to upgrade injectors for that power goal. scotty seems to think everyone wants over 9000 killer wasps

E85 uses approx 30% more fuel than PULP. If you can multiply your current tune's duty cycle by 1.30 then you will get your new duty cycle (near enough), as long as that's less than 85% you're good to go. A mate has an R33 with Nismo 555's and is making 240rwkw at about 45% duty. So there is heaps of headroom to run E85 on the same setup.

Stao is making over 400rwkw using 800cc injectors and E85. That's plenty I couldn't afford new tyres at the rate 400rwkw would blow through them! Definitely keen on running E85.. should be fun. I wouldn't run 91 octane in a fit, I guess what I said came across as cheap.. if I can get a good E85 tune then I will probably run it more.

Yeah would be nice, I ummed and aaahhed about the 1300's but they are quite a bit more expensive and at low pulsewidths they have a bit of ugly non-linearity. Totally doesn't matter for race cars, but I tend to think for road cars they might not be quite as well mannered as the regular offerings. I just ordered a set of short ID850-GM for my car so it fits under the inlet manifold more easily. Since my power goal is only around 250rwkw and it's a daily, 850cc is plenty. I'm not sure how frequently I'll run ethanol, it comes down to cost. I would like to run it regularly but time will tell.

ID725, 850, 1000 compatible with all known fuels. Compatible does not mean they aren't susceptible to problems caused by ethanol's love for gobbling up water, IF you abuse the injectors by letting ethanol sit in your tank for months they will die, this is common sense. ID1300 being stainless internals will have better resistance to corrosion IF there is water in the fuel. This is more likely in a race car that sees no action between meetings, with the older IDs you should pickle the engine by running it on petrol but with the ID1300 this is less important. In a road car seeing regular use I'm not seeing a massive advantage for the 1300's, heaps of people running 1000's + E85 without failures.

If the rocker cover gaskets don't fix it, could be two other things: 1) there is an oil drain that comes out of the head just above the front of the exhaust manifold, the gasket gets old and brittle because it's close to the manifold 2) cam seals get old and eventually leak, if they weren't done at 100k service (mine weren't, and leaked at 160k, grrrrr). rocker covers are easy, oil drain gasket is easy, do them and degrease + hose down and see if it fixes it. if not, probably the cam seals. gave my car to a mechanic for that job.

Dunlop Sport Max TT (there are 3 sport max models, I got the middle one). Fronts (235/45/17) are almost finished after 50,000km. Rears (255/40/17) lasted about 35,000km and I got another set. Still haven't figured out why the rears wore out first These are great, they maintain their grip levels right to the very end and last well too if you don't abuse them. They're expensive but you get what you pay for. I think skimping on tyres on a peformance car is retarded. If you want economy go buy a hyundai. I had RE001's previously on my stock rims but they went hard when half worn and were dangerous in the wet. I then kept them as Texi tyres and they lasted several texis before getting down to the belts, took ages to kill them. Way too hard for a road tyre.

sounds like flex fuel and tuning a different ECU are above his abilities. that is the nicest way I could possibly put it.

According to whitepapers I've read, the anti-knock benefits of ethanol level off above 40% ethanol content. As an experiment it would be interesting to see what a 40% ethanol / PULP remainder would give. By my calcs it's a fairly easy 30L of E85 (actual 85%) and 30L of PULP98. You then end up with 42% actual ethanol content, 8% shitty fuel and 50% PULP. As compared to a dyno run of straight E85. More octane is not automatically better, the higher the octane the slower the fuel burns but I'm sure you can reach a point where this is detrimental. An efficient engine has the fuel burn as quickly as possible, at the right time, in a controlled fashion. So having "enough" octane is vital for the controlled fashion bit, but throwing more octane at the situation is not going to give you any benefit. Downside being you end up looking like a chemistry student at the bowser trying to get 40% actual ethanol content when you fill up

Any particular reason why the topic URL in email notifications is a hyperlink to mandrillapp.com/track/ based URL that then redirects to SAU? Why is tracking who clicks on email notifications necessary? Geoff