Kinks

Which would be an interesting discussion with inside knowledge. Everyone who drives a road car knows on a basic level that if you underinflate your tyres you will a) cause uneven wear across the tyre face and b) risk having the tire fail due to overstressing the carcass with flexing due to low pressure. However, on a road car, you would obviously have insufficient grip at this point because the tread face has uneven pressure on the road (the outer edges have more pressure and it "bows" up in the middle, that's why it wears unevenly). On an F1 car you don't want this to happen because you have less grip. So the construction of the F1 tyres must be such that they don't bow up like this and running lower and lower pressure keeps giving you bigger and bigger contact patches and more grip. It must also not be overheating the tread face due to flexing or, again, teams would simply run more pressure to make sure the tyre surface doesn't overheat. If Pirelli have designed a tyre that gives more grip with lower and lower pressures and then "recommended" to teams that they run X pressure then they're still to blame. The tyre should be self-regulating in its design such that running it out of bounds of intended pressures is a detriment to grip, therefore teams won't try and push the limits and cause an unsafe situation. So my opinion is still that Pirelli are idiots, because if the above is true they've dangled a carrot in front of the teams and told them not to eat it.

I have run both 205/55 and 225/50, 205/55 feels way more direct but the grip limit is quite low because it's such a narrow tyre. 225/50 has more grip but the rim has a lot of "slop" inside the tyre because the tyre is a lot wider than the rim. I then fitted R33 GTR rims (9" wide, as opposed to the standard rim's puny 6.5" width) with 235/45/17 on the front, and on my usual route home I went to turn across an intersection in the usual way and actually had to straighten the wheel as I had turned it too far and was about to hit the median strip. The old tyres had that much give in them that they needed noticeably more lock to get around the corner. Short answer is the standard rims are shit. Pick 205/55 for direct handling or 225/50 for more grip at the expense of handling.

rear muffler + tip. my car came with a nismo rear muffler but everything forward of the diff was factory.

^^ agreed. the "I want to drive a sports car, so what if I have illegal mods" attitude is easily picked up by police and then they will go over your car with a fine toothed comb to teach you a lesson. Like C4a0s says, it's not hard to make your car basically compliant. And if you have a compliant car and don't drive like a dickhead you won't get harrassed by the police. Pretty simple really. They're not going to pull you up on the last 1%, but if the car has its arse hanging out then you draw attention to yourself and if your attitude isn't much better then get ready for a trip to the pits.

cooling pro are piss poor. the standard airbox scoop doesn't fit over it and the coolant temp sensor bung on mine doesn't quite seal properly and it has an extremely slow weep of rad fluid. that said, you should buy mine so I can put a FENIX in.

vettel can suck it. finger boy can go find his own prostate tonight. shame webs didn't have another couple of laps to topple rosberg.

an old fave made better by pixelation

Very sad, condolences to family and friends. Agree with Eric on no speculating - don't feed the journalists! Age and experience has taught me that things can go pear shaped on the road VERY quickly no matter what you drive. Have had it happen to me, have seen it happen right in front of me and the laws of physics cannot be cheated. Always drive with a margin of safety on the road.

cops were RBTing on Mona Vale Rd last night, Terrey Hills.. often see HWP looking for speeders in that area but first time I've seen an RBT. Was "interesting" having 2 lanes stopped while they repeatedly tried to direct one car into the RBT station that clearly didn't want to go in - either they were drunk or they just panicked and didn't know what to do (we've all been there, first time a cop pulled me over I gave him my ATM card :lol: ). Got no sympathy for drink drivers though, if you're over the limit you deserve it. Especially during double points, that's just silly business. Speeding is a bit different - easy to drift slightly over especially where the limits are set too low to begin with, but thankfully so far in NSW I haven't heard of people being pinged for 1km/h over like they do in victoria. As long as there's a margin of goodwill there then I'm happy. Doing 15-20 over? Then you deserve it. I was on M2 yesterday and most people totally ignoring the 60km/h roadwork limit. I'm a stickler for roadwork speed limits and always slow down for them but it irritates me no end when there is a roadwork speed limit despite no roadwork going on. The M2 can safely be posted 70 or 80 in that area because the road is decent, 60 is fine if there are actual workers there but the signs should all be LED and be set to 60 when there are workers and 70 or 80 at other times. I don't like hearing of cops with speed traps hiding behind bushes or illegally parked etc - my opinion is that a visible public presence will have the desired effect of slowing people down and they should be leading by example. It's a tough job and often a thankless one, aside from the occasional bad egg they do a good job.

stop. mechanic time!

Couple of separate issues at play here. The first thing to remember is that the ECU will only display what it THINKS it's running. It assumes you have the CAS set correctly to exactly 15 degrees. I have had the idle timing jump around a bit too, you've done the right thing it should lock itself on 15 degrees. Does Consult sit rock solid on 15 degrees even while the timing light is jumping around? (get a mate to help watch). Maybe it's not locked in on idle timing.. CAS is definitely not fully advanced to get to 15 degrees though. It should be in the middle position, if it's fully advanced then something is way wrong. Being as little as 5 degrees out can make the car feel like a slug, I had to put mine back to 10 degrees for a while as 98RON was making it ping. It felt horrible to drive. I then found United 100RON and put the timing back to 15 degrees wow what a difference. So if you have set it back to the middle position and managed to get 10 degrees then adding timing will make a big difference. However, you really need to make sure the CAS is set correctly. Are you sure you're reading the markings correctly?

He said "doesn't cost an arm and a leg" That said, I have used Alloy Pro and they do really good work. I wanted mint R33 GTR wheels and I certainly got them.

Does she still get surprised when it goes off unexpectedly between her legs?

Adrian I am still running stock injectors I am still debating sticking with side feed or changing the whole setup so I can run ID's. I'm thinking ID's at the moment but it's a matter of sourcing the right bits to fit together. One correction scotty, Artz managed to fit the short ones, not the standard 48mm size. One other guy posted in that thread saying he had fit ID1000's (48mm) and it cleared the manifold and IAC breather by ~1mm with some shaving down of items. I think he had to move the coolant bleed bolt though. Artz's shorty Xspurts fit with plenty of clearance. Side note, everyone seems to talk about "shorty 40mm" EV14 injectors but according to the Bosch datasheets there is no such thing. The Compact EV14 is 34mm between the o-rings, so I have no idea where everyone is getting 40mm from (maybe they're measuring from the wrong side of the o-rings?) Steve from EFI Hardware claims his rail (although an expensive option) will fit without modifications giving 1-2mm clearance with 48mm injectors. I also emailed Plazmaman who said their rail would not fit standard manifold as it's designed for their forward-facing plenums. So now I'm torn between EFI hardware / ID725 and finding a rail to fit short injectors and the ID850-GM. The ID725 has an exceptionally linear response so would give the best driveability out of all ID options, but I'm sure the 850 would be great too. I'd be keen on seeing whatever you come up with Adrian, drop me a PM.

I'm in, e-paid and e-mailed! Anyone who complains about the cost can GTFO. Especially since the cap on car numbers has come down.

what injectors are you using at the moment, disco?

Track is now 1.25km after consultation with CAMS. Way to go, CAMS!

R&R is not the same as a hard cut. It runs rich and retarded so the car just makes no power. I have done datalog runs on my R33 and it hits R&R around 10psi and the car just has no acceleration. The engine is running smoothly (no popping, no jerking) it just makes no power. popping or jerking = coil packs, spark gap too wide, AFM cut. it would only be lean pop if your fuel pump is shot or you have clogged injectors. not as likely as the other scenarios (coil packs, spark gap, AFM)

Yep, sounds like they dialled it for top end power rather than response.

5 laps+ is pretty heavy on a stock car. You'll run into intercooler heat soak, high oil temps, high water temps for starters. Do 3 hard laps, 1 soft lap. Rinse, repeat. Your car will thank you.

Wow those nissan logos are poxy and a dead giveaway of being fake. Paul has nailed it. You can get good products out of china but quality control is everything. If you say nothing then they will just make it as cheap as possible and 85% of them will probably work. But if you insist on quality and are involved in QC then you will get a much better result. I can attest to YJ coils and Paul's level of service, he's great to deal with and would not have any hesitations in buying from him again (although I won't need to, right? )

As above the fuel light is ridiculously conservative. Your R32 may be different but on my R33 I have seen the fuel light come on at 1/4 tank before!! I wait until my needle first drops BELOW the empty mark and then I know I have about 10 litres left in the tank and a range of around 50km before I really should fill up. I can consistently put in between 55L and 58L so you are filling up way too soon. km per tank is meaningless, unless you are really pushing it close to empty it's not "a tank" anyway. The ONLY way to tell people your consumption is in litres per 100km. My r33 gets around 12.5L/100km in typical, gentle driving to and from work. Bear in mind I have minimal start-stop traffic it's usually cruising at a steady 60-80km/h depending on the speed zone. If you are in start stop traffic your consumption goes to poo. If you put the boot into it your consumption goes to poo. If your O2 sensor is stuffed or you got a cheap tune your consumption goes to poo. I did a tank recently after flogging my car more than usual and it was above 14L/100km, it surprised me. But that's a car that I know is in perfect nick because I always get great economy on it. A dud O2 sensor will easily cost you more in fuel.

and it will also achieve the "semi reliable" aspect nicely (I'm referring to how the stock ceramic turbos tend to drop turbine wheels into the cat when you boost them too hard)

Chris, Calorific content of ethanol is lower than petrol so the general guide is you use about 20-30% more ethanol by volume to get the same power output. In actual practice it works out costing roughly the same: http://news.drive.com.au/drive/motor-news/ethanol-put-to-the-test-e85-v-e10-v-premium-unleaded-20110205-1ahgx.html As for fuel lines, I really doubt you'd have any problem with the hard lines. It's the rubber lines that suffer, older cars weren't ethanol-safe. You may need to run new fuel lines that are alcohol resistant, anything current that has an SAE marking stamped on it will be. I bought some recently that was SAE30 R7, and it is rated for immersion in fuel (ie, inside petrol tank). Not necessary to get immersion rated for under-car stuff of course . I'm also planning an E85 experiment with my car, I am upgrading turbo, ECU and injectors and aiming to get the same driveability and fuel consumption as previously on PULP as well as the same fuel spend as PULP on E85. But have the benefit of more power (should go from 180rwkw currently to 230-250rwkw). Geoff

Not necessarily. I see cars all the time that just have a "full power tune" where the tuner has just kept hitting the 'up' button until it was running 10:1, and then passed it off as a "safe" tune. My fuel gauge goes up when I follow those cars because they spew out so much unburnt fuel (ok, slight exaggeration). While it's absolutely unavoidable that you have to burn fuel to make power, and a more powerful car will drink more when you are up it, there's no reason why you should be wasting fuel willy nilly, unless you're really pushing extremes in which case it's barely a road car any more.