Kinks

As above the fuel light is ridiculously conservative. Your R32 may be different but on my R33 I have seen the fuel light come on at 1/4 tank before!! I wait until my needle first drops BELOW the empty mark and then I know I have about 10 litres left in the tank and a range of around 50km before I really should fill up. I can consistently put in between 55L and 58L so you are filling up way too soon. km per tank is meaningless, unless you are really pushing it close to empty it's not "a tank" anyway. The ONLY way to tell people your consumption is in litres per 100km. My r33 gets around 12.5L/100km in typical, gentle driving to and from work. Bear in mind I have minimal start-stop traffic it's usually cruising at a steady 60-80km/h depending on the speed zone. If you are in start stop traffic your consumption goes to poo. If you put the boot into it your consumption goes to poo. If your O2 sensor is stuffed or you got a cheap tune your consumption goes to poo. I did a tank recently after flogging my car more than usual and it was above 14L/100km, it surprised me. But that's a car that I know is in perfect nick because I always get great economy on it. A dud O2 sensor will easily cost you more in fuel.

and it will also achieve the "semi reliable" aspect nicely (I'm referring to how the stock ceramic turbos tend to drop turbine wheels into the cat when you boost them too hard)

Chris, Calorific content of ethanol is lower than petrol so the general guide is you use about 20-30% more ethanol by volume to get the same power output. In actual practice it works out costing roughly the same: http://news.drive.com.au/drive/motor-news/ethanol-put-to-the-test-e85-v-e10-v-premium-unleaded-20110205-1ahgx.html As for fuel lines, I really doubt you'd have any problem with the hard lines. It's the rubber lines that suffer, older cars weren't ethanol-safe. You may need to run new fuel lines that are alcohol resistant, anything current that has an SAE marking stamped on it will be. I bought some recently that was SAE30 R7, and it is rated for immersion in fuel (ie, inside petrol tank). Not necessary to get immersion rated for under-car stuff of course . I'm also planning an E85 experiment with my car, I am upgrading turbo, ECU and injectors and aiming to get the same driveability and fuel consumption as previously on PULP as well as the same fuel spend as PULP on E85. But have the benefit of more power (should go from 180rwkw currently to 230-250rwkw). Geoff

Not necessarily. I see cars all the time that just have a "full power tune" where the tuner has just kept hitting the 'up' button until it was running 10:1, and then passed it off as a "safe" tune. My fuel gauge goes up when I follow those cars because they spew out so much unburnt fuel (ok, slight exaggeration). While it's absolutely unavoidable that you have to burn fuel to make power, and a more powerful car will drink more when you are up it, there's no reason why you should be wasting fuel willy nilly, unless you're really pushing extremes in which case it's barely a road car any more.

what are you waiting for? bolt it up and gate past the local cop shop so they know whose car to confiscate!

school holidays are over surely?? do it. bolt it on and run 1 bar with no other mods. it'll be totally awesome right up until the bang.

don't post a link or anything

You need a programmable ECU more than you need injectors. Change injectors on stock ECU = won't even run.

throttle angle depends on what my right foot is doing. RPM is irrelevant. the throttle is a function of load, what are your other operating conditions? There are SO MANY variables you haven't specified it is impossible to give an answer. even assuming constant speed, what gear? (this means how fast). need a bigger throttle opening in higher gears to compensate for wind resistance on the vehicle (since higher gear will necessarily be travelling faster ie more drag). you can check this by datalogging consult RPM vs AFM, and then separately calibrating the AFM on a flow bench to work out airflow. That's if someone doesn't already have the calibration curve handy. But if all that is too much work, 47. gonna need to specify things in a lot more detail, I'm sure CFD conforms to GIGO theory (garbage in, garbage out) and if you don't specify your operating conditions accurately you've got no hope of an accurate or relevant result.

spot on.

I'm looking at my options at the moment as well. RB25DET NEO is top feed. RB25DET (R33 GTS-t series 1 and 2) are side feed. To change to top feed injectors (which come in 11mm and 14mm) you need more than just a fuel rail. You'll need a new fuel regulator (since the factory one bolts up to the end of the factory side-feed rail, which you are ditching). You'll also need adapter plugs on the injectors as aftermarket injectors come with generic plugs not Nissan ones. And some assorted fittings and fuel hose. If you are still using the factory intake manifold then you need to be very careful about the length of top feed injectors as you can run into clearance issues trying to get the rail under the intake manifold. ARTZ has done a brilliant writeup here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403711-top-feed-rail-in-r33-with-stock-plenumyes-it-can-be-done/ The XSpurts and Injector Dynamics injectors are all based around the Bosch EV14, with a few modifications. The other option is stick with side-feed injectors. Nismo 740cc are designed for our car by the motherland but they are a bit old now. Probably still do a fine job but not the "latest technology". There's also Power Enterprise and Deatschwerks which are new but I haven't heard as much about them.

good work

Yep, here's a paper that backs up what you're saying. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDUQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdspace.mit.edu%2Fbitstream%2Fhandle%2F1721.1%2F69496%2F775670245.pdf%3F..&ei=am8vUaHdBYj88QT6xYGQDQ&usg=AFQjCNGwXDKnWr9zhWOVwjfkHqrqsQZSyA&sig2=PlJh-ScUjRaOaCrwqunmpg&bvm=bv.43148975,d.eWU Basically once you get above 40% ethanol content on a port-injected engine the detonation resistance of the fuel plateaus. So at minimum E40 "should" get you the same benefit as true E85. Disclaimer: not an expert, read the full paper and decide for yourself

thanks for the headsup DIF minimal benefit for road safety, everyone drives around staring at their speedos for 5 days. yep, good work.

would give her the best 30 seconds of my life

Poor Mark. Too much bad luck, methinks Marko has been in the garage fiddling with Webber's fueling rig.

hadn't thought about it being a restriction. car still has a standard ECU so not an issue yet. old habits die hard I usually get in the car turn the key and it is running after half a second. having to wait for a daily's pump to prime is painful, and it sounds gay when I forget to wait and it won't start properly.

Thanks for great photos Chris, got some really nice photos of my car on there! only 1 set posted so far, I'm sure some others would have got ya. how about the video i took on your camera?

+1 to what Duncan said, SAU Texis and indeed all SAU events are very professionally run, a credit to all of the organisers and volunteers that we can enjoy such an awesome day with our cars in a safe environment. Had a ball, almost got through a very hard set of Maxxis tyres but missed last run by the skin of my teeth. Next time!! Had plenty of runs and occasionally set a decent time as well so very happy with the day overall.

I wish I knew this when I was fitting my 040 in-tank!! Will have to source a check valve and pull it all apart again so it starts properly. For now I just try and remember to let it prime fully before starting but often I'm impatient and forget. Definitely annoying...

+1 for Adaptronic, got one sitting in my garage waiting to go on when I get time - FMIC+Hypergear highflow+Adaptronic should see me making a bunch more power than before. I'm also eyeing of ID1000 injectors, as I have the desire to run E85 in the future. I would rather support a very smart Aussie (Andy) who is making great products than lining the pockets of a Japanese company pushing out a 10 year old design. Especially when the price is so good.

The difference between GCG and Hypergear is that GCG rebuild the turbo with a new ball bearing cartridge. This is the expensive part. Hypergear put a bush bearing in, and they are half the price. Hypergear can do a BB centre on request but it ends up being 2 grand just like GCG. Not worth it in my opinion, and many others will agree as Hypergear gets rave reviews and is doing a lot of development on turbos as evidenced by the large thread on the subject!! ROFL. R33's are very sensitive to airflow as Jez said. It takes very little to push them into R&R in standard form, so unless your ECU has been remapped without your knowledge there is no way you are flowing more air and not hitting R&R.

I see what the problem is, you've run out of boost juice and your caps lock is stuck on.

Just goes to show you have to be a ruthless flamin mongrel to be a WDC. Malaysia was a perfect example of why Vettel has multiple WDC, Webber has none and Rosberg will never have any in the future. In F1 if you play the team game you don't have the "win at all costs" mentality and you won't clean up a title unless everyone else falls on their swords. I feel sorry for Mark, Vettel is an out and out dickhead and deserves a punch in the face or to be put in the wall next race but 25 points is what counts at the end of the year. RBR won't give him any more than a slap on the wrist.

paid and emailed!