Kinks

check the ECU fault codes. search the forums for how, you can put it in diag mode and look at the blink pattern of the check engine light. it sounds like your coil packs are shot, but worth changing spark plugs first gapped to 0.8mm since it's cheaper than coil packs

I have an Innovate LC-2 connected to my Adaptronic and displayed via a custom Raspberri PI solution. The sensor is located in the recommended position about 30cm in front of my cat. The LC-2 semi-regularly fails to acquire lock (the status LED stays flashing in warm-up mode) for an entire drive, or will occasionally find a lock after driving for 30-45 minutes. Other times, when it's working properly, I can start the car from dead cold in the morning and it has acquired lock and showing me AFRs in about 10 seconds. I would not buy one again, the reliability is poor. This kind of thing should work 100% of the time. I emailed Innovate to ask them about it and was ignored. No vendor support = why bother.

Low frequency components (~120Hz) seem to be the main frequencies transmitted into the cabin and the source of exhaust drone. An uninterrupted exhaust diameter from front to back (think 3" straight through) seems to be prone to resonances around low frequencies. The only way to break up the low frequency resonance is to make the length of the constant 3" section shorter. The way of doing this is by changing the exhaust diameter in the middle with a full size centre muffler. This is why basically every quiet exhaust has a full size centre muffler. A hotdog resonator in the middle won't do much, they are too small to change the pipe tuning. I had a Fujitsubo catback in my R33 and it had full size centre and rear mufflers, very quiet system. I'm about to buy something very similar for my R34.

just buy a cheap highflow for the RB20 and sell it along with the motor when you upgrade

+1 vote for blitz return flow. plenty of people making 300rwkw+ on them

Yeah but only american cars have ponies. We measure things in killer wasps over here.

I understand, my sarcasm indicates I can't be bothered explaining it a second time. For someone so smart I'm surprised you didn't pick up on that. FMIC reduces radiator efficiency slightly, yes. But not enough to make ANY practical difference if your cooling system is up to scratch. Fix your cooling system. TBH I wouldn't even be driving it if the temp gauge is going past half way.

lol headroom pull thermostat out let it run at 40 degrees then good luck I'll stick with my factory thermostat which is working brilliantly.

380km to "a tank" - filling up early and putting 50L in it = 13.15L/100km compared with 380km to "a tank" and putting 58L in it (almost dry) = 15.2L/100km 15% difference, we're a long way from NASA P.S. My car does 55 LOLs per WOW. +/- 30%

Don't underestimate the ability for a workshop to f**k it up though. I had a local exhaust shop in Brookvale make a catback for my R34 and it was f**king HORRIBLE. First I told him I wanted it quiet, so he fit a single straight through muffler and it was around 100dB in the cabin. 2000RPM was a HUGE drone fest. Actually it sounded pretty good north of 4000RPM but how often do you drive around up there on the street? Not much. And you gotta go through 2000RPM a lot. Took it back and they fitted some poxy triflow muffler. A bit quieter, still droned terribly at 2000RPM (about 85dB in cabin) but from 3000+ it was quiet as a mouse even when giving it stick. Totally wrong. I don't care if it's noisy at WOT just give me something docile when I'm at light throttle But, I agree in principle. The catback is in my garage waiting to be attacked with an angle grinder and taken to scrap metal recycler. It's so bad I wouldn't even contemplate selling it because you've have to be a complete bell end to want an exhaust that did that sort of thing. Soon I will go to another exhaust shop and suss them out to see if they know what they're talking about before spending money. I think the typical enthusiast would just be a wet finger in the air choosing a muffler. A real exhaust shop will have the expertise to know what works and what doesn't.

Why? This is silly. The GTT is designed to run at 82 degrees, not 76 degrees. Temp gauge going up to H means you are seeing 110 degrees water temp. Something is seriously wrong, either your water pump is f**ked, your radiator is blocked, or the thermostat is broken and only partially opening. I have the stock rad and thermostat in my GTT, giving it arseholes around Eastern Creek and the actual water temp gradually crept up from 85 degrees normal operating up to 100 degrees after about 8 hard laps. Never went higher than 100 and the stock gauge was still showing half way ie normal. If you are seeing hotter temps because you've upgraded your engine power levels the first step is a thicker radiator. Keep the thermostat standard, the radiator is what gets rid of your waste heat. A bigger one will do that job better. Stable temps are better for your engine, the way to get this is with the correct thermostat for your engine and a big enough radiator to get rid of the heat load you're putting into it.

Stock fuel pump or aftermarket? I put a Bosch 040 in my R33, f**king thing didn't have a check valve in it. So the fuel empties out of the fuel lines back into the tank when you leave it sitting overnight. It would never start properly unless I let the pump prime for 5 seconds first.

km to a tank is a horse shit method. Working our your fuel consumption is so easy: 1) Grow a brain 2) Fill up 3) Look at how many litres you put in 4) Look at how many km on the trip meter 5) Consumption = Litres divided by kilometers multiplied by 100. 6) Reset trip meter and keep on driving, satisfied that finally you understand what the f**k is going on Eg 55L and trip meter shows 415km. 55 / 415 * 100 = 13.25L/100km My last tank was 12.7L/100km city cycle.

Is it possible to get similar response out of an OP6 housing? Or is the 21U more suited? 10psi by 3250RPM and full boost by 3500RPM looks pretty nice (from the 21U). The biggest issue with all the OP6 high flow charts I've seen is boost comes on at 4000RPM which is far too late in a street car... Specifically my question is can the OP6 housing produce "enough" power while retaining factory-like response. The standard OP6 boost response on my GTT is fine. A high flow coming in at 4000RPM would not be. By "enough" power I mean a nice fat curve across the rev band. I care more about the total area under the curve than the peak value.

Decent coils (ie splitfires) + FMIC = 4 degrees advance across the board for me.

buy a slow car (hatchback) do advanced driver training course get a few years of experience and maturity driving on the road live longer than your peers trying to own a fast car right off the bat then buy a skyline

320 kilopascals

Yes if you can find standard headlight housing then replace the whole enclosure. Retrofitting halogen lights to a Xenon HID housing produces a pattern that is awful, and in my opinion is even more unsafe than having the factory HID lights because the lights are too dim and poorly focused to be effective. Halogens and HID lights emit light in different ways and the housing must be designed to focus that light onto the road. Changing bulb type never works well.

Wow, their expressions perfectly sum up how I feel about this season, too

I would be talking to the cop's boss, to his station commander. You broke your neck in several places, how that is treated by the hospital should not be relevant. Although, to be fair, if you still had the original steering wheel with airbag you would have fared a lot better. But still, the other guy screwed up badly, and injured somebody. He should be punished for it. Had my car written off by somebody who turned across my path, I was doing 10km/h UNDER the speed limit too. Police said it's a minor incident and left. Ridiculous. Other driver should have been charged with neg driving at a minimum, he didn't check for oncoming traffic before turning. Although I guess it's OK to just say "whoops, sorry" and expect no repercussions these days? Thankfully, I wasn't injured. Yeah but I've been some of your cars.. there's a lot more to worry about than no airbags (the nut behind the wheel is the biggest problem )

freight companies don't give a shit about your delicate item. "fragile" might as well say "give it your best shot mate". Every freight or postal company is the same. I have had CO2 laser tubes sent from overseas quite well packed with bubblewrap/foam and with "fragile" all over them and I could tell before I even opened it that the tube was broken. In fact the cardboard box was bent, and the glass tube was basically turned into powder it was so beaten up. I reckon someone played baseball with it back at the depot until they heard the tinkling of broken glass. The second one (packed even better) was broken in transit too. For the third one the vendor had to wrap in bubblewrap and foam and then put it in a solid wooden box before it arrived OK. I told them NOT to put "fragile" on it either. That sticker is just a red flag to a bull. So, as much as it sucks that they damaged your bonnet, all I can say is the seller didn't pack it well enough. Alloy bonnets are easy to bend, should have built a wooden frame around it. Pack it well enough that it doesn't need "fragile" and you're sorted.

Basically the tune is not finished. It sounds like the tuner has tuned it at operating temp but he hasn't done the finishing touches like cold start, idle control, and your decel issue. Depends on what you agreed on with the tuner. However, if he is blaming the ECU for not being able to do something that is a bad sign - setting up cold start is something the tuner should normally sort out for you and there is absolutely no reason why any modern ECU can't be set up to run properly when cold.

Ken Block is a hack and an amateur. First 5 minutes of the 7 minute vid is him crapping on about the car, there's only 2 minutes of actual footage The car is only used on a purpose built track with heaps of room (like most of his vids - or portable plastic barriers that don't hurt when you hit them) Judging by the tyre marks on the road he's had about 16 goes at each corner before getting a keeper (all of his vids are like this - just look at every corner of every KB video) May I suggest you skip that video and watch a couple of Ryan Tuerck's instead. Forest road, no soft safety barriers Most corners are virgin lines, or at most 1 previous (faint) set on the ground that could easily be someone else's. This basically means he made ONE run for the footage. No safety barriers Most corners are virgins, until the tandem part of the vid where you can tell they had a couple of practice goes 1 or 2 previous sets in parts but still 14 less than old mate Ken. Ryan can f**king drive!

what about the uni joint /CV joint in the driveshaft? engine mounts?

I would suggest forgetting about anything tidy or nice if you have to park it on the street. Streets are full of arseholes, f**kwits and general incompetents. Something will happen to the car eventually and it will break your heart. For example, I parked on the street in Randwick once, 90 degree to kerb, somebody attempted to park next to me and must have hit the accelerator instead of the brake and sideswiped my whole passenger side, from front bumper to rear wheel arch. I mean, totally stoved in kind of sideswipe. They annihilated it. They then drove off, no note or anything so I came back to a destroyed car. I found the car that did it with MY paint on THEIR bumper (also, their car colour matched the paint left on my car) parked a couple of blocks away. The police were totally uninterested, and refused to even look at or question the owner of the other vehicle unless somebody witnessed the car actually do it. Since it happened overnight of course nobody saw it. So that was an at-fault insurance claim and 3-4 weeks without the car. If you want a skyline, get a beater that has a few dings and rough paint already. Don't park anything you care about on the street.