Kinks

I was going to suggest pleading guilty and asking for a Section 10.. http://www.armstronglegal.com.au/web/page/section_10 unfortunately: so it wouldn't help you in terms of licence suspension to do this. Definitely seek legal advice from a few people. My personal opinion is that you plead not guilty, go in front of a judge and say I'm sorry, I wasn't looking at my speedo I was concentrating on getting the overtaking maneuver completed in the safest possible way. When I received the fine I was blown away by the alleged speed, I know I have a performance car but I had no idea my car was capable of so much acceleration in such a brief period and it was not my intention to exceed the speed limit. Unfortunately if you do this, you either plead not guilty (which means you have an uphill battle) or guilty (in which case kiss your licence goodbye even if they give you a section 10). It's f**ked, is what it is. I'd hate to see the road toll if people overtook at 5km/h because that was the speed limit.

I'd rather have a NA skyline than any sort of commonwhore, except maybe a VL which at least had the right engine in it (but it's turbo so not an option for P platers). Dunno what you're whining about though. My first car was a Charade, and you think an NA skyline is a sorry option? You should harden up a bit, princess.

that's bullshit. sorry to see it. If I saw a bunch of <insert stereotype here> with a tin of petrol and a lighter I'd just call the cops, no way i'm getting involved they could be out of their tree and throw the petrol on me instead.

awesome.. some fantastic pics already going to be hard work choosing them! lol @ my car single spinning.. needs more 1.5 way

Table of 10 please. Myself and my posse of 9 (I am the only member, $440 transferred).

I just don't think he has a ridiculous amount of ability, he seems like a wanker in a high powered car to me. Sure he's got decent skill but if I had hours a day to chew through tyres in a 600hp+ car I would be able to drive as well. Want to impress me? Do it on a virgin track, with no old tyre marks from previous runs in sight. Do it in one take rather than splicing the best footage from several runs together. But maybe I'm just jealous because he's doing it and I'm not

That driftmob day looks kinda interesting, I've done the peanut track once before in my R31 and EC peanut would not be as exciting as Texi. I haven't made any enquiries cos I haven't seen any SAUers post that they're going

funny, looks exactly like what i bought from bunnings the other day (some clear plastic hose and 2 hose clamps). the only difference is theirs has a thicker section on it (which would be nice, but probably not essential). was in bunnings and figured i'd give it a go

the motul does seem more noisy to me as well. try another oil i love the motul but prefer a quiet motor go 10W-30 or 10W-40 it will hold pressure better than a 5W oil.

tasted pretty good to me, nick and rosie.. good effort

point of this thread is?

Cheers Dunc I actually managed to dig up one of your posts with a fantasic mspaint in it after i posted this thread never heard of the lock kit - what's in it? (have you got a part number too?) I'll have to get under the car and check it - thankfully got the WL Plus ones so they're easy to adjust on the car

try looking a bit harder mate, there's a guide for R32/R33 changing shocks and springs in the DIY section and R34 will be similar.

Clio in reverse would have done morning course 2 quicker than i did it going forwards... I can't say i had more fun as punting a car around some witches hats while driving backwards looked epic. but i can say I was more sideways I heard the reverse lap was the 6th fastest overall?? Impressive

now that's stealthy

^^ thx, could come in handy

undoing the lines under the car is a bit of a pain.. i undid the return line at the reservoir and put it in a bucket and then kept the reservoir filled (not too full as it rises up when you turn) while i turned the wheel left and right by hand (car on axle stands, engine NOT running). you eventually start seeing new fluid come through, but the colour change is only slight so it can be hard to tell. reattach the lines and do several turns lock to lock to clear any air in the system. then start the car and do several turns left to right, just in case there's any air in the pump section. arthur's method probably works too and more economical with the fluid but i read someone who had done it this way so i copied it. there's no drain line and nissan don't seem to list a service interval for PS fluid in their service manual. I did mine anyway because i don't like having old fluids in any of the systems. used the castrol power steering fluid.

After fitting a Whiteline swaybar I've noticed that it seems to drift over to one side and the RHS will just touch the wheel rim at full lock (when turning hard left). it's about an inch offset from centre. What would cause this? I only noticed after a wheel alignment when my caster was changed - whiteline plus caster rod bushes. I had set them by eye to the mid-point (no more caster than standard) and that was fine. they have now been cranked up to their maximum (6°50' left and 6°43' on the right...). 7 minutes is a tiny difference surely it wouldn't cause the bar to move? I can't be sure it hadn't moved before, the caster change could well have changed the clearances. solution - hose clamp on the swaybar so it can't progress through the mounting bushes? as a side question max caster looked like the LCA was pushed back as far as it could go.. ie a "longer" radius rod. is this right?? after looking at some diagrams i would have though that having the LCA as far forward as possible would be the right way but the alignment machine was pretty convinced that i was wrong

be interested to see a pod power pull followed by one with the stock airbox. i'm sure there is a point where the stock airbox becomes a restriction but it would have to be up around the area you're operating in. great result!

yeah your load cell will be MAP based which means it will still be on the same cell but flowing more air. lachlan is spot on. if that's the case one would think it would lean out slightly which normally improves power anyway (in addition to the extra air flow). 15kw is less than a 4% difference at your power level, which is a small difference but it is the opposite way to what you'd expect and you did get consistency when you put the exhaust back on. my understanding of exhausts is that the tuned length ends with the turbine and everything after that should pose as little restriction as possible. In an NA car it's not backpressure you want per se but exhaust velocity, this helps with scavenging (maintaining velocity = smaller piping = some backpressure hence what people say). exhaust velocity doesn't help after a turbine because they operate on a pressure differential across the blades. after that you just want to get rid of the gases.

nicely bombed Cass, nice drift Eric

That slow mo launch looks awesome Eric, well done

^^ that is awesome

the focus needs to be more on engine power and mechanical grip, not aero. aero kills overtaking, engine power and mechanical grip promote it.

To be blunt, every time you buy a car with mods you inherit every shortcut the previous owner has ever taken. When I bought a car I looked for the cleanest, most unmolested example I could find and it has been a joy to own. The only mistake I have ever made, and the only thing that has EVER caused me grief with the car, is giving it to a workshop for the 100k service based on a recommendation from a friend of a friend. Said guy was clearly a f-wit, and the mechanics were flat out driving a thumb up their arse. They replaced my cam seals as part of the service which later caused a nice oil leak, they chipped my harmonic balancer, they screwed down the washer reservoir over an alarm cable which gradually wore through until it shorted, and they mixed coolant types which clogged the radiator. Now that I've fixed all those problems (including new balancer NOT CHEAP + timing belt and a new radiator) I have a good car again. This is true, they are very thorough but this is a good thing. Big ticket items like rust and shoddy accident repair are an instant dismissal, but minor things like my car had "noisy thrust bearing in clutch" at 33k and the car has now done 117k and the clutch is fine, and the noise is no worse because almost every R33 makes that noise. The trick is deciding what is important and what isn't. Seriously, take a mate along who knows cars and is mechanically minded. Buy him a beer afterwards and when you see a car you both like THEN get an inspection. Don't bother importing.