Kinks

+1. Lowered on its guts, rear bumper non matching, front bonnet doesn't line up, creases/wrinkles in the front engine bay where the cooler hose goes.. random holes underneath.. broken handbrake with cosmetic boot torn and falling off, red gearstick boot and cheesy shift knob, shiny oil filler cap, boost gauge in head impact area, random breather pipe cable tied to coolant bleed bolt/intake plenum... no... that car's been in an accident and was owned by someone who didn't treat the car nicely. it's a hack job. that compliance plate looks a bit off as well. I'm not sure if this is always the case but the last 6 digits of my VIN match the chassis number on the nissan build plate. I've never heard of a "Nissan Oz Skyline" either, sounds very suss. my advice to you is go look at a bunch of different R33s. then pick the best one and show your mechanic. you only get to know what you're looking for when you have been looking a while, don't rush things because you inherit all the history of the car when you buy it. take it from me these cars are beautiful if you find a good one. they are so easy to drive with a stock clutch as well, obviously that has been changed so it bites really hard. the very first time I got in my mate's R33 with a stock clutch i heel-toe downshifted it and matched revs perfectly the first time. if it drives like an abortion it probably is.

your random brand blue tinted globe proclaiming a million kelvin colour temperature and HID XENON or some bullshit on the packaging is guaranteed to give you a woeful light output. I remember one of my headlights blew and I bought a you beaut MTEC brand or something equally forgetful and fitted them, well.. I just about crapped my pants the next time I drove at night I could only see for about 15 metres and the road in front of the car showed up dim and blue. They were dimmer than 30c "I just need to pass rego alright" globes!! Any +50 globe with a CLEAR lens should have good light output. They do overdrive the filament to improve the efficiency so expect a shorter life from a +50 but I'd rather replace my globes more often and get better light. The Phillips Bluevision are not bad but they are a tinted lens so you will end up with less light output than the equivalent clear lens.

They don't need covers. A regular wet cell battery must have a vent tube that vents outside the car, or use a sealed battery which never vents gas when charging.

very interested in this, S2 R33 here.

excellent. going to be an epic race if it rains, I have tipped RBR 1-2 with alonso coming home 3rd. was a bit worried about renault not having top speed but wet race changes things.

as sub says, You can either fit 205/55 or 225/50. Quality 205/55 tyres will handle quite well, possibly be slightly down on outright grip compared with a 225. A 225 on the other hand has a lot of overhang of the tread width compared with the rim width. It gives you a sidewall with a lot of bulge in it and the rim can move from side to side within the tyre quite a bit. So your turn in for a corner will be poor by comparison, even if outright grip ends up being higher. The other side of the coin is that 205s on a full size sedan look stupid from the rear. The stock rims are 6.5" wide, so you're never going to get brilliant rubber on it. 225/50 is the maximum. If you want decent handling you need to change the rims. The 6.5" width of the standard wheels will cripple any attempt to get good grip AND handling.

Yep KYB is your best budget brand. Bilsteins are around $1100 a full set, which is not bloody bad really when you consider what a great brand they are.

You do realise that you took exception to "it's torque that you feel" and then said they're both the same thing?? wat. They're not the same thing. Torque is an instantaneous force. It is what you feel. Acceleration is the byproduct of a force. Torque is closely linked with power as you say but you don't go "wow I really felt the kinetic energy of my car increase over the last second" you say "wow my butt is being pushed into the seat". That force is produced by torque. Torque provides a force on the driving wheels which produces acceleration (it becomes a linear force at the tyre/road boundary). The engine is doing work to achieve this and the net result over 1 second is your power figure. It definitely comes down to torque delivery. If you get a hard hit of boost (and torque) in the midrange then it feels like a big rush. If your turbo is very progressive and linear then you don't get the same smack in the back it's more of a smooth push.

word. brakes stop the wheels, tyres stop the car. I had RE001's on there and even they didn't have enough wet grip and caught me out once or twice. So that became my minimum when I went to select tyres again. I'd much rather pay $1200 for tyres and have the car feel really solid than pay $800 for tyres and have it be sketchy. To me, that's a massive waste of $800.

I would be very interested in new lenses (glass would be awesome if it's not too much more expensive) and an HID projector conversion that looks as subtle as possible. Factory look with much better light output = win.

yes, easily. no need for high flowing it. high flowing will hurt low end response. i had an Rb25 turbo (the later one with nylon compressor wheel) on my RB20 and it still boosted up nice and low, and was good to drive. Not quite the same response as the smaller RB20 turbo but there was more headroom.

It looks terrible, don't do it... My ride height is just a tad lower than factory (front is 360mm centre of wheel to guard and rear is 350mm). No clearance issues, rubbing etc but my suspension is quite stiff. Depending on how low yours is you may need to roll the lip on the rear guards but that's not a big drama. I've got 235/45/17 on the front and 255/40/17 on the rear.

no

I'm a maybe.. but will join somewhere around Terrey Hills/Mona Vale if I do come.

In a GTS-t there is heaps of room to slip a 1 piece dump/front pipe in and out. in a GTR it may be a different story but installing JJR 1 piece bellmouth dump/front was a walk in the park.

mine started squealing after the motor started and i had released the key - i thought it was a loose fan belt at first. gave it to the mech to look at and he said it was the starter, he greased the shaft and it still did it for another week and then the grease must have worked its way in because it's been perfect ever since. The problem was the gear wasn't pulling back smoothly once the car was running.

old tyres are often noisy because the rubber has gone hard. and you should replace the tyres in this case. the wheel choice won't affect noise much - if anything a lower profile tyre would give you more though.

mark webber is such easy fodder. i could go all day with the number of pics etc that i've forwarded of him but most of them are on my work PC

word, terry. the more good people there are who are proud and outspoken about their car choice the harder it is for people to stereotype skyline driver = fwit. these 2 clowns belong on public transport. LOL @ monkey pic. perfectly fitting.

not sure.. i just remember when i changed my lines in the R31 over from RB20 lines to RB25 lines that the RB25 banjo fitting had a smaller opening on the turbo side.

yeah it's not much of a restrictor. also check that there's nothing blocked in the drain pipe.. but I'd say that nipple is designed for a bush bearing turbo not a ball bearing.

reverse gear is at the back of the car, duh! seriously though, just use a multimeter. the reverse switch will have continuity when the gear lever is in reverse, and the neutral switch won't have continuity (between the two pins). in neutral the reverse will be true. both switches are on the drivers side of the gearbox, about 1/3 to 1/2 way along starting from the bellhousing and about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the box. they're fiddly bastards to change

he could easily have a PFC or speed cut defender..

clearly you're not giving her enough attention, so she acted up for a while

does your oil feed line for the turbo have a restricted (small) orifice? or was the oil line from an older style bush bearing turbo? BB turbos only need a steady DRIP of oil to keep the bearings lubricated. If oil is leaking from your drain pipe then it means the drain pipe is under pressure, oil is forcing its way through the bearings faster than the drain can drain it. this backs up in the turbo pushes past the oil seals and does exactly what you're describing. that's why BB turbos have a restricted oil entry hole on the banjo fitting.