Kinks

reverse gear is at the back of the car, duh! seriously though, just use a multimeter. the reverse switch will have continuity when the gear lever is in reverse, and the neutral switch won't have continuity (between the two pins). in neutral the reverse will be true. both switches are on the drivers side of the gearbox, about 1/3 to 1/2 way along starting from the bellhousing and about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the box. they're fiddly bastards to change

he could easily have a PFC or speed cut defender..

clearly you're not giving her enough attention, so she acted up for a while

does your oil feed line for the turbo have a restricted (small) orifice? or was the oil line from an older style bush bearing turbo? BB turbos only need a steady DRIP of oil to keep the bearings lubricated. If oil is leaking from your drain pipe then it means the drain pipe is under pressure, oil is forcing its way through the bearings faster than the drain can drain it. this backs up in the turbo pushes past the oil seals and does exactly what you're describing. that's why BB turbos have a restricted oil entry hole on the banjo fitting.

meow.

I agree, the dyno would show any differences easily. I've heard a general rule of thumb is 2.2CFM per HP. 200rwkw ~~ 280HP, 25% drivetrain loss ~ 370HP, times 2.2 is around 800CFM. That's a very quick and dirty calculation, but even so.. a 428CFM cat will be causing quite a hefty pressure drop when you try and force 800CFM worth of air through it. That's probably for NA cars a turbo is more efficient at generating power so the metric might be 1.8CFM per HP (plucking a figure out of the air). If that was true you're now at 650CFM. Hi, I'd like to buy perfection for a pittance. where do I sign?

Yep, star earthing is vital in audio power amplifier design as well. Ground loops are no fun.

Even though for all practical purposes you're right, the electrical engineer in me is cringing at your simplification of the concept of earthing The reason they go into detail is because one of the ground eyelets has more current going through it than the other, or is more sensitive to the ground potential (or noise). It will still work fine if you hook them up the other way around, but in a dark back room somewhere a japanese engineer dies a little inside when you connect it the wrong way. Please, think of the (excessively anal) engineers

I bought an R31 with an RB20DET in it, 1 bar boost (tailed off to 10psi at redline, shitty bleeder) on the stock turbo. The guy before me never ran a BOV, and it had massive compressor flutter. I ran it with no BOV for another 3 years daily driven daily boosted. The turbo was still fine, I had to do the manifold bolts and put an R33 turbo on there. The stock one was still in good condition when I pulled it off. The whole "blocking your bov off causes damage" is bullshit. Genuine compressor surge at WOT will quickly kill a turbo but when the throttle shuts there is no exhaust gas, the turbo is not loaded. It's fine. "No BOV kills turbos" is only an argument that BOV manufacturers want to push. If you just spent $4k on a fresh twin turbo setup for your GTR then a BOV is cheap insurance because having it definitely won't hurt, not having it... mayyyyyyybe reduce the life a little but I've never seen one of these threads where someone posted "I had a stock turbo good tune it was only running 10psi and the turbo let go after I blocked the BOV off". Not once has that happened, but I'm happy to be proven wrong. Why do manufactuers fit BOVs? Because people get really confused when they change gears and their car makes mysterious whooshing noises. I'm out.

These are for the ceramic cats, not metallic. Note that 'stainless' refers to casing not catalyser type. I went with the XForce in the end due to (claimed) higher flow rate. So far so good. Catco's ceramic cat is 428cfm, but their metal cat is 706CFM. I went the catco metal cat (706CFM). Claimed flow rates are all bullshit unless they tell you what pressure drop (through the part under test) they were done at. very very few manufacturers state the pressure figure.

Opinions are worthless, unfortunately. I could have an opinion that Richard Simmons is straight, and I'd be completely wrong and anyone who heard my opinion and believed it themselves would also be wrong. Yes, and a fair chance of getting his back up as well. A policeman being recorded is within his rights to enforce the very last letter of the law as politely and professionally as he likes. Prepare to have your car and licence gone over in detail. If you are polite then they will often use DISCRETION and let you off with a warning or not even that. If you are genuinely being harrassed by police despite a polite and courteous manner then recording your dealings is the next step. Otherwise you'll just make life harder for yourself by getting the cop on the wrong side of you right from the start.

Yep, except that there is also legislation that says if a police car is equipped with video and audio surveillance they are REQUIRED to use it, and they must inform the driver that the conversation is being recorded and this is perfectly legal - the driver's consent is NOT required it is legal as long as they inform you it is being recorded. Since you're not a policeman it may not be as straightforward in the other direction. I'd advise reading the laws to find out what you are allowed to do.

probably a wise move in many cases. brakes are a very simple pneumatic system, ABS is a very complex pneumatic system.

There's already been 1 boob in this thread - he started it! All we need in here is La Bomba and we have a matched set. Your examples do look better though!!

another vote for MX5, I haven't even driven one but it will handle better stock and be cheaper to take care of than a BMW.

Can't say I've noticed this in mine at all. Deano, keen for more results once you get some dry roads

I'm going to go ahead and assume you're talking about the outboard

to me, that says cut the wire going to pin 18 and connect the yellow wire of your kit to the connector block side and the purple wire to the loom (the loose wire end in the bundle). Also, make sure you certainly fix the silver main part to a frame with a nut interesting idea though - i'd be keen to know how it fares on the track and what it costs

yes. get it fixed.

I went through this recently with my R33 GTS-t. I'd be interested to know what the overall handling is like at standard height vs lowered slightly (~20mm). I went king springs and bilsteins with circlip height adjustment, and I'm running it at standard height (top groove on the shocks). rear has come down 10mm the front is unchanged.

it could be a dodgy spot on the trimpot next to the cap. mark the position with a permanent marker so you can put it back to where it was and try turning the pot a few times back and forth to "exercise" the contact inside. then set it to a different position (maybe 30 degrees off where it was, more towards the middle of the dial). put it back in the car and test. if the needle has stopped jumping around then it's just a dirty pot. the RPM value will be way off, go back and adjust the pot again until it is back to where you were and hopefully the contact will have come good. if not then i'm not too sure - mine has been spot on since i replaced the cap so there may be multiple causes of the problem.

RDA, purely because their website has some awesome and interesting tech info and not just sales wank.

^^ if a tank is completely sealed how can 98 go off? tanks aren't sealed, they have a breather on them which goes to your charcoal canister. 98 goes off because the volatile chemicals evaporate, ethanol is 85% high octane stuff so if you lose some ethanol to evaporation all that happens is you have a bit less fuel than when you started. petrol is low octane base with some high octane additions and if these evaporate then you are left with shit fuel. the main danger with ethanol is when it absorbs moisture, it will form two different layers in the tank with the water concentrated in one of the layers and this is obviously bad for your motor. it's a much bigger problem in boats because it's easier to get water contamination, in a car it's not so bad but something to be aware of if you let the car sit for long periods of time (especially outside - in a garage it would be fine).

My R33 made some noise in neutral with the clutch out when I bought it, it was noted in the pre-inspection report. At the time the car had 33,xxxkm on it. It now has 115,xxxkm on it and the noise is no louder. So my answer is unless the noise is actually getting louder over time, don't worry about it. When the noise level exceeds your budget for stereo equipment it's time to fix it Of course, keep up regular gearbox oil changes and if you find misc bits of metal that shouldn't be there in the old oil then you know you've got a problem.

I'd like to see my name on the list too so I have an excuse for getting excited