Kinks

thanks for posting that up MW, now I know what to look out for. (and what type of cars to throw my molotov cocktails at) cass it's like a corrugated dirt road - if you go faster the bumps even out they shouldn't penalise us for doing that until they fix the road maybe we should just get some big signs made up that say WARNING SAFETY CAMERA AHEAD with some LEDs flashing away and post them about 200m before the car.

NSW RTA have unfortunately found that fixing all of the potholes will cost too much. Therefore, the potholes will be moved from place to place in order to distrubute the wear and tear equally amongst motorists. Crews will be working every peak hour with lane closures in effect to dig the next scheduled pothole and use the bitumen gained to fill in the previous one.

yes you must fuse any wire that comes from a power source (battery/alternator/etc). so your wiring will consist of the factory fuel pump "signal" wire which is triggering the relay coil, this is fused already. You need to run a power wire from the battery (which should be fused as close to the battery as possible) to the relay and then from the relay to the fuel pump(s). The idea behind fusing is it protects the wiring/devices downstream, so your fuse must be smaller than the current capacity of your wires. Eg if you run 25 amp auto cable then your fuse must be 25 amps or smaller. Any time you step down in wire size you need to put another fuse in with the current capacity of the new wire size. I would not bother with separate fuses to be honest - I would run a fused line from the battery back to your relay, then have that powering both pumps. If one of the pumps faults and blows the fuse then having the other one running is not going to help you anyway. Not like you can limp home with one pump running.

25G might be hard to quantify but assuming your extinguisher is a 1kg capacity, its gross weight will be just over 2kg which means you should be able to hang 50kg on the mount. I would not trust 50kg on a couple of self tappers! As Duncan says, drill the holes out a bit larger and put a bolt through them with washers. Then it's not going anywhere!

apex seals, then engine mazda announces a new wankel-powered car, apex seals out

"I want to spend $20 and have the same quality as spending $100" won't happen. Pay shit, you get shit. Only buy cheap things if you enjoy opening your wallet multiple times.

put spare apex seals in glovebox. apex seals out. spare apex seals out too.

Look at car, apex seals out

A locked diff doesn't handle well. You get push understeer off throttle and have to feather the throttle to avoid oversteer on throttle. Are you just shimming the standard viscous? If so you need a mechanical diff eg Nismo 1.5 way. If you are wearing out the nismos then I'd look at putting in a torsen diff from an S15. Not sure what's involved but that would be my next bet - torsens don't wear out.

Nahhh they'll just strap a black box under the car loaded with C4 and a GPS tracker and as soon as you exceed the speed limit for the current road you are on, BOOOOM!!!!

Team orders have always existed, despite the ban. It is widely suspected that teams use codes to talk to their drivers and achieve the best result for the team. For example "Lewis, you have to save fuel. Limit revs" means short shift and let Button past you. "Team orders what do you mean? Lewis was about to run out of fuel.. it's very unfortunate". If not that then it's pit strategies that severely compromise one driver and let the other one in front. I've seen Webber left out a couple of times for laps and laps after his tyres have gone off and he is just getting swallowed up, I am almost shouting at the TV to pit him and if I can see it the guys who are paid big bucks to sit on the pit wall sure aren't missing it. No, they're getting the result they want (their poster-boy Vettel in front). The difference is that Ferrari thumb their noses at everyone and make it blatantly obvious, and the average viewing idiot gets upset because it happens right in front of them. I don't care, if it's hidden then it just gets disguised as a pit strategy that doesn't work and loses the driver 10-15 seconds. Nobody likes seeing it but spectators want to see wheel to wheel racing, F1 teams want to win the championship. They are sometimes conflicting areas of interest because racers will all turn their engines down towards the end of a race and hold station to make sure they get the points.

what pads do you have at the moment? how old is the fluid? the very first step if you have no idea is to get the rotors skimmed flat and put a fresh set of good quality pads in there, then do a full brake fluid flush with at least DOT4. My memory is hazy but I think the caliper mounts on the aussie and import version struts were different by 10mm, so if you want the import calipers (which I think were a bit better) you need the import struts and they are probably a bit pricey these days. I think the import struts are also compatible with R32/R33 brakes but that's really pushing the grey matter.. you might need to make some modifications.

yep - i had a blocked radiator and didn't know about it until a spirited drive had the needle climbing. after that i checked with a consult cable and I was sitting at 94C in normal driving, sitting still it got up to 104C and the needle was still at the halfway point that is much too hot for my baby!! poor thing must be about to pop an o-ring by the time the needle even starts to move. that said they are bloody strong motors. new radiator = steady 85C which is what the thermo opens at from memory. also, if your radiator is blocked the clutch fan will not engage because the clutch senses air temperature from the radiator's hot side. blocked rad = cool air = no clutch fan. mine started working again as soon as i changed the radiator.

nm

This. Anyone who reckons an inexperienced driver should keep the power on and steer into a slide is an absolute idiot, you should not be giving advice sorry to be blunt but SHUT UP NOW. I have personally seen it happen with someone I was following get out of shape, try to catch it, try to catch it again and the tank slapper just got bigger and bigger because he kept his foot on the throttle. Wrote the car off half a second later. When dealing with oversteer you have to do 2 things. 1) Counter-steer so that you reduce the slide angle a bit 2) Remove the influence that caused the slide This normally means turn the wheel into the slide about 45 degrees and get off the throttle. Don't wind on fistfuls of lock you will just make it snap back. And if you are in over your head and you're about to spin the safest thing is ALWAYS to slam on the brakes as hard as you can and keep them on until the car stops. If you try and catch a slide and fail you'll go spearing off in a random direction and that's much more dangerous than spinning out in the direction you were originally going and coming to a stop. Also La Bomba, get new tyres. Even "just legal" tyres have lost most of their wet grip you are on borrowed time. Oversteer happens any time the rear wheels lose grip, some FWD cars will oversteer when braking INTO a corner.

In for epic skids!! faxed entry form and transferred funds today. looking forward to it, new suspension is full of win!

The chain email I got said "please pass this on to all drivers". Maybe a diligent RTA employee took it literally

+1 had a charade that was serviced by a reputable shop and the gearbox eventually died, the old fluid came out "like water" the mech told me so it was way past its service interval. i do my gearbox and diff oil every 40k km, which is what the service manual states

any reputable workshop for comp and leakdown test. don't let anyone open the motor unless they are qualified in engine forensics and are going to pull it down and give you a signed, written report on the cause of failure.

WD40 is a grease remover. if you have a greased joint you should NOT use WD40 on it, unless it is seized... in which case you can help anti-seize it with WD40 but you must clean the WD40 off it afterwards and re-grease the joint.

teflon does great when it's painted onto a pan and baked at 300C to bond and form a smooth surface. suspended in oil is a different situation and i don't believe the hype. I have always used gear 300 in my gearbox and it has stood up well. the only time it ever crunched was going into 5th at high speed so now i just stay in 4th

cops have been no worse for me than in any other car. i have never been anything but polite to them and if you pass the attitude check they will treat you like a human being in return. if you go off half cocked like your average lebbo f**kwit "I wasn't doing nuffink!!" (sorry to stereotype) then you get what you deserve.

He probably did it a few grand worth of improvement, if it's an Alfa The whole type M non-type M thing is all just bullshit.. some people reckon body kit = type m. if you have a 2.5L turbo with a manual then you are driving an awesome car. everything else is just an option that the original owner either ticked or didn't tick when they bought the car. bull shit! what car are you driving? My car with stock standard ORIGINAL suspension (34,000km genuine k's) and wheels/tyres will flick the tail out before even thinking about understeering. it is VERY tail happy on the throttle, perfectly controllable and a joy to drive but I have never understeered in it. you would have to go ridiculously quick into a corner for it to plough on, and never on the throttle. throttle = tail out. end of story. so you've seen how i drive!

I reckon - but think how much my car must roll with stock everything T minus 5 days until my goodies go on! Then I'll join in next track day looks like you guys had a great time

A friend was given some good advice when he bought his car. They told him there are 3 things you need to know about skylines: 1) Don't accelerate around corners. 2) Don't accelerate around corners. 3) Don't accelerate around corners!! It's sensible advice. Skylines are tail-happy cars on the throttle because they are very neutral to begin with. They have not been designed to understeer to keep muppets safe like many other RWD cars. I would highly suggest a defensive driving day or a skidpan day to get aquainted with the car and how it handles. As other have said, use 98 RON fuel as a minimum, service it every 5000km, fit a proper alarm/immobiliser, and warm it up gently before thrashing. Start it, wait 10 seconds and drive off. Drive gently for about 10 minutes so the engine AND transmission are up to temp. Then treat it however you want. Drive gently again for the last 3 minutes of a trip, and then you only need to let it idle while you grab your wallet and phone and undo your belt. No need for 5 minute turbo timers or any of that shit, although my alarm came with one and I leave it to idle for 90 seconds if i have hit boost near my destination. Follow the above and you'll be rewarded with an awesome car.