Kinks

I would suggest forgetting about anything tidy or nice if you have to park it on the street. Streets are full of arseholes, f**kwits and general incompetents. Something will happen to the car eventually and it will break your heart. For example, I parked on the street in Randwick once, 90 degree to kerb, somebody attempted to park next to me and must have hit the accelerator instead of the brake and sideswiped my whole passenger side, from front bumper to rear wheel arch. I mean, totally stoved in kind of sideswipe. They annihilated it. They then drove off, no note or anything so I came back to a destroyed car. I found the car that did it with MY paint on THEIR bumper (also, their car colour matched the paint left on my car) parked a couple of blocks away. The police were totally uninterested, and refused to even look at or question the owner of the other vehicle unless somebody witnessed the car actually do it. Since it happened overnight of course nobody saw it. So that was an at-fault insurance claim and 3-4 weeks without the car. If you want a skyline, get a beater that has a few dings and rough paint already. Don't park anything you care about on the street.

NOPE the threads are incompatible, but they are close enough that you can force it in. however that means you have over stressed some of the threads and it could develop a leak at any time. Which is probably a bad idea if you use it where you care about the quality of the seal, for example.. in a pressurised oil feed! to answer the original question, in a GTT I don't see how clearance could be an issue. I reckon you could stack 5 or 6 sandwich plates before you have any issues.. there's a ton of room!

I drive on that road every day too, 65km/h on corner entry in the wet seems a bit quick especially with tyres you're not intimately familiar with. All the electronics in the world won't help you if you simply don't have enough traction to make the corner, and you should be driving around with more margin in hand. Also, some of the bitumen on that road (plus where it joins the main road at the top of the hill) is REALLY polished and REALLY slippery in the wet. TL;DR: Slow down, Fangio

Yup, agreed. The lack of in-season testing and upgrades kills it. Bernie is flogging a dead horse, I actually wouldn't mind seeing F1 die in a fire because something better will spring up to replace it.

poor car, being boosted in 44 degree heat!

sounds like your flap's a bit loose, mate!

Rekt

It's not the lack of free to air that has turned me off. Half the time I watch a recorded race anyway cos I don't fancy still being up at 1am and having to work the next day. It's not the Mercedes dominance either. Before Mercedes it was RBR dominating. Before that it was Ferrari. It's the rules and the way Bernie is trying to manufacture a show. It's not racing any more. It's a car management demonstration. The cars are 6 seconds a lap slower than a few years ago. Drivers have to drive at 7/10ths because the tyres will overheat and go off if they push. They don't fight for position any more they just say "he's on a different strategy, let him past". Aero grip is too important relative to mechanical (tyres), making it hard to follow another car. DRS is a gimmicky band-aid. The engine rules have gone stupid. The power plants are hideously complicated yet they have to last half a season. Why not just make cheap NA engines and let them blow up more? No refueling means the strategists can't use weight vs grip to their advantage. Fuel cap is bullshit, if you want environmental credentials then DON'T GO RACING. Or go E85 like the supercars did, that's smart. The fewer the cylinders the worse it sounds. Fixing it is easy. Tear the rule book in half, then tear it in half again. That's the right amount of rules. Make it a 2.0L NA V10. Unlimited revs. Engines must last 1 race weekend. Gearboxes, 2 weekends. Fuel them on E85. Bring back refueling. Get rid of the fuel cap. Use an ECU interlock so selecting first gear is impossible if the fuel nozzle is inserted. Reduce aero, bring back ground effect to minimise wake turbulence so cars can follow each other in corners. Increase mechanical grip, make the tyres sticky and have a wider temperature envelope. Nominate 1 compound for each race and have a max tyre cap per weekend. Let em race. None of this "saving" bullshit. We want to see 10/10ths all the time and 11/10ths when they're trying to put a move on somebody.

Not for an 800kg car. But an 800kg car will cause much less sidewall flex and much less heat generated in the canvas of the tyre. Do the same thing in a 1600kg tyre and you will be rolling around on the sidewalls. Probably better to err on the side of caution and start with a slightly higher cold pressure and bleed air to maintain target hot pressure.

As others have said, temp gauge will show half way until at least 105C. Once it starts heading north of half way by a bee's dick you are already in the danger zone. Also, guess what a WATER temp sensor needs? Water!! If you pissed all the water out and weren't pumping anything around, who knows what the sensor was reading. If you had no water in the block I'm sure it's cooked, the top of motor wouldn't have had any cooling until it lost compression and stalled.

Due to the water/oil heat exchanger I'd say you are just seeing your water temp reflected on the oil temp gauge. On my R33 with a blocked radiator the factory water temperature gauge sat at half way from 70C all the way up to 105C - it never budged. Only when you head up north towards 110C the water temp gauge starts to show it getting "a bit warm" - IMO 105C is already way too warm!! (was checking actual WT values using Consult tool). Blocked radiator, blocked/faulty thermostat, or bad water pump. As a point of reference my R34 GTT handled continuous abuse on the track and the highest I think I saw was 103C on the water. You should not be reaching that sort of temperature on the street.

I bought a Blitz return flow for my GTT. Plenty of people making great power with them. I'm sure it is much nicer internally than a ling long brand (including Cooling Pro). It is possible that return flow piping has a bit more backpressure and puts a turbo out of its happy zone, as jet_r31 said. But if it does, you'd have to be on the edge of the efficiency cliff regardless, I would think! Generally speaking, boost is purely a measure of restriction, it doesn't tell you how much air is flowing through the engine simply how hard the turbo is trying to shovel air in. That's why a big turbo running 15psi produces the same power as a small turbo running 20psi - the small turbo has a flow restriction in the turbine which causes backpressure, and you need to shovel more boost into the intake to make up for that turbine backpressure. The big lazy turbo lets all the exhaust gas flow out easily and consequently doesn't need to try as hard shoveling air into the intake to flow the same power. The big turbo will also heat up the air less (due to the lower boost), and since there is less backpressure the end gases leave the cylinder more easily and you get a better gulp of fresh air for the next compression cycle (which also gives you more power - your VE is better because you just reduced an exhaust restriction with a bigger turbo). Same reason why external gate produces more power - the gas flow arrangement is much better than an internal wastegate (which is a compromise for cost and compactness). If you ran a pressure sensor on your manifold upstream of the turbo you'd see how much total exhaust restriction (including turbine) your engine is pushing against. Correlating FMIC pressure drop, exhaust backpressure, boost, IAT, timing, and power is a complex undertaking though, there are a lot of variables and you need to only change one at a time to understand what's going on. Tao has put some interesting information up about his experiences with different cores and piping but the simple fact that others are making great power with return flow coolers means you can't categorically say that return flow ruins your change of making decent power. There is a bit more going on than that.

Can't be bothered finding the paper, but basically for port injected engines of our vintage there is no additional knock benefit past E40. So really your timing map should alter from E0 to E40 and your fuel map should alter from E0 to E100. I bet the Wolf (like most others on the market, to be fair) isn't smart enough to do this. So rather than make a video about it they could improve their ECU to solve the problem they are talking about. OTOH, because the ignition map is still scaled to E100 same as the fuel map you lose out on a little bit of ignition timing if you are swapping fuels. Big deal. You're in it for the convenience, right? You still get it, right? Who cares!! The people who are in it for the last 1% of performance are running full E85 conversion, not flex.

if you have to buy coil packs don't waste your money on cheap ones. Buy new OEM or Splitfires.

factory MAP sensor installed? Plumbed in BEFORE the throttle body? (ie between the intercooler and the throttle body) The factory Neo ECU uses pre-TB MAP for transient response. If you don't have it connected up right it will be a dog on blipping the throttle but if you blip and hold for about 3 seconds then it will sort itself out and rev freely again (ie, it switches back to the airflow meter).

Get a JJR bellmouth dump pipe and venom high flow cat Dump pipes / cats make no different to the noise, only flow. I have the above on the standard catback and it is as quiet as a mouse. Get a custom catback exhaust made up. DO NOT SKIMP on the catback. My cheap catback is deafening at 2000 RPM which is where a street car spends 90% of its time. It's quieter when you are at 3000+, which is the opposite of what it should be. I went back to the standard catback and the shit exhaust is currently in my garage waiting for me to figure out how to get rid of it (probably to scrap metal recycler).

lol @ sour grapes I thought the organisers could acquire any car for $1000? It doesn't stop you sinking 10 grand into a car but doing that kind of thing is a good way to piss 9 grand up the wall. that R31 looked fast. RB POWAH!!! how come the fuel cells cracked? they should be less dodgy than the stock fuel tank, not more dodgy

the car is cool, shame I couldn't say the same about the driver

pretty sure fuel cells arent supposed to crack.. body flex?

Good luck guys! Wish I could watch it live that R31 looks epic.

DBA's have great breaking performance

Nah, he needs to go to jail and be bent over by his cellmate.....

Group III oils are mineral oil based but they are so highly processed that manufacturers call them synthetic based on the performance of the oil compared with traditional mineral oils. Group IV oils are manufactured synthetically (keywords PAO and Ester) For 99% of cars it makes zero difference. Group III is fine.

sooo they promised you a new set of rotors and now they've gone silent without sending you the rotors or even an explanation and it's been > 3 weeks? they sure sound like a great company to deal with