Kinks

good publicity? amazing. i must be dreaming.

ah but they're 40+ year old hoons. and they're on TV. totally different

^^ yep go the coppers you will get just about as much life out of them. always prefer to replace plugs a bit more often the working bits of platinums and iridiums are probably OK but after 40,000km even platinums look like shit. platinums and iridiums are for shit cars liks alfas where you have to remove the engine to get to the plugs. ours just have a crossover pipe and some coil packs, don't be a sissy service the plugs more often and just use coppers! I believe the correct plug is BKR6ES-11 but BCPR6ES-11 is identical except the external snout is a very tiny bit longer, which makes no difference in practice so either plug will work. the -11 means 1.1mm gap which is fine unless you're running high boost or your coil packs are shot. If you can use 1.1mm gap rather than BKR6ES (no -11 means 0.8mm gap) then your spark will be bigger which helps combustion.

100k service = change timing belt. you're due so change it, interference motor means things get ugly if it snaps. aftermarket belts eg gates make some noise anyway, but if yours hasn't been done and it's the OEM belt then it could be a warning sign that you should change it!! i never heard a peep out of my OEM belt, got a gates on there now and it does make a slight whirr just off idle but they often do that.

i've got a starter motor that makes the same noise and probably has more torque in all seriousnes Neil sucks when you realise you've sold your car to a complete twat. if it wasn't for the busted chassis rail could have swapped the bonnet for a new one and snuck a vuvuzela under there and nobody would have noticed anything unusual

5 is quite a hot plug for australian conditions, it is the original spec heat range but most people here run a 6 plug (slightly colder). if you're not experiencing any pinging then the 5's are OK, but if you get knock then a colder plug might help. also, no real need to bother with iridiums or platinums just use coppers and change them more often. at the very least you look at your plugs more often and you'll know if one cylinder is leaning out or detonating by damage to the plug (if you can't hear it).

aww what's wrong... ego got in the way? you're a world class tool.

that's right, Niki Lauda can drive. zing!! nah Mark's done bloody well this season. Good for him.

lol. just... lol.

I'd be more uncomfortable with that nagging feeling that if I've lost my licence 3 times in 5 years I'm probably a shit driver. Insurance companies are there to make a profit mate, they're not a charity. Why should they insure you when you've demonstrated several times that you're a high risk?

^^ as above. you can also look into the radiator core from above and see if it looks blocked. if you are having overheating problems it's most likely to be the radiator or the pump. if the top hose is hot and the bottom hose is cold it could be the pump, if both hoses are quite warm then you have a blocked radiator.

KU36 are asymmetric, NOT directional. Directional tyres have the same tread pattern on each side of centre. A directional tyre will have "rotation" with an arrow on it. An asymmetric tyre will be labelled "inside" and "outside" on the sidewalls.

RBR conspiracy? No way.. that's just retarded. Webber has had shit luck his whole career, and he makes his own fortunes IMO. If he tapped the wall during quali it's pretty obvious he damaged his own gearbox, and vettel had issues as well. the RBRs are just too fragile. The race strategy for Webber had me yelling at the TV though. Why continue lapping when you are losing hand over fist to the guy behind you? And the rest of the field? Pit as soon as the tyres start to fall off, put new ones on and then worry about the end of the race. The only thing that happens by staying out is guaranteeing that you are screwed. I thought the RBRs were on the best strategy (hards), was expecting McLaren to fall off a cliff and get chewed up. Interesting race with split strategies though, no rain or safety car even. Go Canada!

the low fuel lamp and the gauge have nothing to do with each other. my low fuel warning light sometimes comes on with the needle just above empty. I can consistently drive the car until the needle is below empty and then put 55L of fuel in it. As an experiment I ran the car dry once, the low fuel light was still coming on and going off even when the car started to stutter because the tank was bone dry. i put 61L of fuel into it on that occasion, it almost stalled pulling into the servo. Under normal running by ignoring the light and watching the gauge I consistently put between 55L and 58L into the car.

lose the split dump, they are a problem. JJR bellmouth dump + front pipe, single piece straight to the cat. i was impressed with the build and weld quality for a chinese dump.

don't do HIDs on an R33. reflector headlights designed for halogens spill too much light, I haven't seen an R33 with HIDs whose owner doesn't deserve a backhander for the glare it causes other road users.

Who cares what fuel consumption you get? You're driving a f**king skyline!! I voted "good" without even reading your thread. Gotta burn fuel to make power, even in an NA. My turbo R33 gets great consumption if I'm light on the throttle. If I'm heavy, then I pay extra. It's pretty simple really.

It may - although IMO the skyline is a taily car to begin with. I will probably end up with my new swaybars on middle front and soft rear, will start soft/soft and go from there but if i was a gambling man that would be my bet

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ta...00-t324517.html

forecast is for showers over the next couple of days too so that could blow things wide open. practice times are pretty well meaningless, i tipped mclarens to do well merc engine + f-duct + long straights.

I can't read that writing, can you make it a little larger please?

My tacho one day decided to go crazy, when idling it was sitting around 4000RPM and as soon as I drove off it would bounce around between 7000 and 9000RPM. Tapping the dash behind the steering wheel made the needle fluctuate so it was clear something wasn't right in the instrument cluster. Plugs were all in firmly so the cluster itself was the next suspect. Since I managed to fix it here's what I did: Start with cluster out (there are plenty of other guides to get to this point): Around the edge of the cluster you need to unclip the plastic clips (arrows) - there are a bunch of them top and bottom of the cluster, work slowly and gradually unclip them all and the front will pop off. Careful about the reset needle for the trip meter, if you are agro with it you will damage it. Be gentle once you've got the clips undone!! You should now have a naked instrument cluster (oooh baby!) Flip it over and undo these 6 screws, careful as when you undo the last one the tacho will fall out. You should now have a naked tacho module (I'm excited) Here's a suspect capacitor, looks like it's had better days. It looked suspect, so I changed it. If you change it with the same value you shouldn't have to touch the adjustment pot (right next door). If you do need to recalibrate your tacho this trimpot will let you. Replace the capacitor with the same value of 15nF (replacement is marked 2A153J - the 153 means 15 with 3 zeros, in picofarads. 15000pF = 15nF). Adjustment potentiometer highlighted in case your tacho is now off - mine wasn't so I didn't have to touch the trimpot (I did anyway, but that's because it was there and I wanted to play with it). Put it all back in reverse order and your tacho will be less crazy*. I took a photo of 9000RPM for posterity, I hope my RB never actually hits this since it would not end terribly well (*statement is true if you have made the necessary prior sacrifices to the skyline gods. I take no responsibility for cack-handed, ham-fisted or butter-finger moves. If you end up in the emergency ward with burns from your soldering iron please tell me which ward you are in so I can point and laugh)

My tacho one day decided to go crazy, when idling it was sitting around 4000RPM and as soon as I drove off it would bounce around between 7000 and 9000RPM. Tapping the dash behind the steering wheel made the needle fluctuate so it was clear something wasn't right in the instrument cluster. Plugs were all in firmly so the cluster itself was the next suspect. Since I managed to fix it here's what I did: Start with cluster out (there are plenty of other guides to get to this point): Around the edge of the cluster you need to unclip the plastic clips (arrows) - there are a bunch of them top and bottom of the cluster, work slowly and gradually unclip them all and the front will pop off. Careful about the reset needle for the trip meter, if you are agro with it you will damage it. Be gentle once you've got the clips undone!! You should now have a naked instrument cluster (oooh baby!) Flip it over and undo these 6 screws, careful as when you undo the last one the tacho will fall out. You should now have a naked tacho module (I'm excited) Here's a suspect capacitor, looks like it's had better days. It looked suspect, so I changed it. If you change it with the same value you shouldn't have to touch the adjustment pot (right next door). If you do need to recalibrate your tacho this trimpot will let you. Replace the capacitor with the same value of 15nF (replacement is marked 2A153J - the 153 means 15 with 3 zeros, in picofarads. 15000pF = 15nF). Adjustment potentiometer highlighted in case your tacho is now off - mine wasn't so I didn't have to touch the trimpot (I did anyway, but that's because it was there and I wanted to play with it). Put it all back in reverse order and your tacho will be less crazy*. I took a photo of 9000RPM for posterity, I hope my RB never actually hits this since it would not end terribly well (*statement is true if you have made the necessary prior sacrifices to the skyline gods. I take no responsibility for cack-handed, ham-fisted or butter-finger moves. If you end up in the emergency ward with burns from your soldering iron please tell me which ward you are in so I can point and laugh)

I managed to fix my tacho which was bouncing around between 4000RPM and 9000RPM. I will see if I can dig up the photos I took and post a HOWTO thread in this section over the weekend (note that this is only a fix for the "over 9000" problem, a non-working tacho is most likely not making contact with the loom plug that runs behind the cluster).

that's a big boost change, get it back to your tuner for a run on the dyno otherwise you're playing with fire.