Kinks

I tend to think a random cop passing by who saw a gaggle of skylines would be far more tempted to infiltrate the group and pull over a car than a "police escort". Said escort is just going to stay with the group because they know what the destination is. If anyone acts like a cock they will take notes and only put the party lights on if you're doing something dangerous. If you have been misbehaving expect to be in the shit at the next stop, though. I see absolutely no problem with a police escort on an organised cruise. Are you demonstrating responsible driving or not? There's no need to tread on eggshells if you're doing the right thing - just drive normally. If normal for you is being a dickhead (not saying it is, just IF) - that's when you have cause for concern in which case you're probably not welcome on a cruise where good behaviour is requested anyway.

Looking at replacing my radius rod bush as an overall suspension refresher, Whiteline make a 1 piece bush and Nolathane make a 2 piece bush. The Whiteline would have to be pressed in, Nolathane looks like you just line the bits up and put the rod back in place and whack a bolt through it. Is the whiteline a better bush or is there not really much difference in practice?

wow, a newspaper actually reports on the other side of the story.. http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/news/south-a...3-1225882947361

http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/news/south-a...3-1225882947361 Discuss.

good publicity? amazing. i must be dreaming.

ah but they're 40+ year old hoons. and they're on TV. totally different

^^ yep go the coppers you will get just about as much life out of them. always prefer to replace plugs a bit more often the working bits of platinums and iridiums are probably OK but after 40,000km even platinums look like shit. platinums and iridiums are for shit cars liks alfas where you have to remove the engine to get to the plugs. ours just have a crossover pipe and some coil packs, don't be a sissy service the plugs more often and just use coppers! I believe the correct plug is BKR6ES-11 but BCPR6ES-11 is identical except the external snout is a very tiny bit longer, which makes no difference in practice so either plug will work. the -11 means 1.1mm gap which is fine unless you're running high boost or your coil packs are shot. If you can use 1.1mm gap rather than BKR6ES (no -11 means 0.8mm gap) then your spark will be bigger which helps combustion.

100k service = change timing belt. you're due so change it, interference motor means things get ugly if it snaps. aftermarket belts eg gates make some noise anyway, but if yours hasn't been done and it's the OEM belt then it could be a warning sign that you should change it!! i never heard a peep out of my OEM belt, got a gates on there now and it does make a slight whirr just off idle but they often do that.

i've got a starter motor that makes the same noise and probably has more torque in all seriousnes Neil sucks when you realise you've sold your car to a complete twat. if it wasn't for the busted chassis rail could have swapped the bonnet for a new one and snuck a vuvuzela under there and nobody would have noticed anything unusual

5 is quite a hot plug for australian conditions, it is the original spec heat range but most people here run a 6 plug (slightly colder). if you're not experiencing any pinging then the 5's are OK, but if you get knock then a colder plug might help. also, no real need to bother with iridiums or platinums just use coppers and change them more often. at the very least you look at your plugs more often and you'll know if one cylinder is leaning out or detonating by damage to the plug (if you can't hear it).

aww what's wrong... ego got in the way? you're a world class tool.

that's right, Niki Lauda can drive. zing!! nah Mark's done bloody well this season. Good for him.

lol. just... lol.

I'd be more uncomfortable with that nagging feeling that if I've lost my licence 3 times in 5 years I'm probably a shit driver. Insurance companies are there to make a profit mate, they're not a charity. Why should they insure you when you've demonstrated several times that you're a high risk?

^^ as above. you can also look into the radiator core from above and see if it looks blocked. if you are having overheating problems it's most likely to be the radiator or the pump. if the top hose is hot and the bottom hose is cold it could be the pump, if both hoses are quite warm then you have a blocked radiator.

KU36 are asymmetric, NOT directional. Directional tyres have the same tread pattern on each side of centre. A directional tyre will have "rotation" with an arrow on it. An asymmetric tyre will be labelled "inside" and "outside" on the sidewalls.

RBR conspiracy? No way.. that's just retarded. Webber has had shit luck his whole career, and he makes his own fortunes IMO. If he tapped the wall during quali it's pretty obvious he damaged his own gearbox, and vettel had issues as well. the RBRs are just too fragile. The race strategy for Webber had me yelling at the TV though. Why continue lapping when you are losing hand over fist to the guy behind you? And the rest of the field? Pit as soon as the tyres start to fall off, put new ones on and then worry about the end of the race. The only thing that happens by staying out is guaranteeing that you are screwed. I thought the RBRs were on the best strategy (hards), was expecting McLaren to fall off a cliff and get chewed up. Interesting race with split strategies though, no rain or safety car even. Go Canada!

the low fuel lamp and the gauge have nothing to do with each other. my low fuel warning light sometimes comes on with the needle just above empty. I can consistently drive the car until the needle is below empty and then put 55L of fuel in it. As an experiment I ran the car dry once, the low fuel light was still coming on and going off even when the car started to stutter because the tank was bone dry. i put 61L of fuel into it on that occasion, it almost stalled pulling into the servo. Under normal running by ignoring the light and watching the gauge I consistently put between 55L and 58L into the car.

lose the split dump, they are a problem. JJR bellmouth dump + front pipe, single piece straight to the cat. i was impressed with the build and weld quality for a chinese dump.

don't do HIDs on an R33. reflector headlights designed for halogens spill too much light, I haven't seen an R33 with HIDs whose owner doesn't deserve a backhander for the glare it causes other road users.

Who cares what fuel consumption you get? You're driving a f**king skyline!! I voted "good" without even reading your thread. Gotta burn fuel to make power, even in an NA. My turbo R33 gets great consumption if I'm light on the throttle. If I'm heavy, then I pay extra. It's pretty simple really.

It may - although IMO the skyline is a taily car to begin with. I will probably end up with my new swaybars on middle front and soft rear, will start soft/soft and go from there but if i was a gambling man that would be my bet

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ta...00-t324517.html

forecast is for showers over the next couple of days too so that could blow things wide open. practice times are pretty well meaningless, i tipped mclarens to do well merc engine + f-duct + long straights.

I can't read that writing, can you make it a little larger please?