Kinks

It's been way too long since I did a Nasho run as well.

prodrive have registered for 2010, that makes the stakes interesting because they have already publically commented that the proposed cap is much higher than they were initially expecting. so mosley can either say "f.. you" to ferrari and impose a cap and we have an F1 with no ferrari and prodrive, or he can shit all over the newcomer. if anyone wants me i'll be in the corner with my popcorn, watching this drama unfold

limited K's rego sounds like it would make more sense.. dunno if they force you to count your track kms though.

Probably what some dumbass's logic was, for leaving it in a high gear. You will definitely move if you crank it in a low gear. The reason for parking it in a low gear ie 1st gear is that 1st provides the greatest resistance to moving. 4th gear will roll freely, 1st will stop a car. If you're on a really steep hill then reverse is normally a bit shorter still so use it instead. Personally I always park on flat ground so I leave it in neutral. If I park it on a steep driveway then I leave it in gear.

Viscous LSDs are a sealed unit, use non-LSD oil. I put Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff and it is fantastic. S15 diffs are Torsen, they use gears instead of clutch packs to perform the LSD function therefore you do NOT need friction modified LSD oil. You only need friction modified oil on LSDs that use clutch packs.

turn it into a hanging mobile for your kid, so they can become a GTR fan. bonus points if it drops, you just helped evolution weed out people who can't build shit safely

12.8 on a rock solid tune may be fine, but if it goes from 12 to 12.8 and the tuner is out of room for adjustment then there are some serious issues that need to be addressed, especially the "out of room for adjustment" part. Who's to say whatever is at its limit has a lazy day one day and then you're at 13.5:1 or worse.

I thought the commentators had introduced their interviewee incorrectly... that's a stunner of a comment to come from a rookie who has done nothing so far, Piquet should pull his head in he is about to lose his drive in F1 because he's a complete hack. Too much ego not enough talent, methinks.

Brake fluid should be fine unless it's old or you've boiled it IMO.. doesn't need doing as often as engine oil but if you gave it a quick bleed every oil change then you'd be sorted. That'll keep the fluid moving through the lines enough that a full flush isn't necessary, if you regularly track it. I think I did my brakes about a year ago, did a wakie day today and my coolant temp started moving before I had brake problems.. although the brakes were spongy after sitting in the pits they were fine after 1 pump once i got back in

there's a low-rpm cutout on AC so that you don't stall your car, sounds like yours is set too high. i've seen knobs on an ECU which control the low RPM cutout before, or it's under the passenger side dash a lot of the time. can't help ya with R33s unfortunately never needed to find it on mine

it won't stress the engine and there's no harm in doing the FMIC now, you just won't realise much benefit until you do the exhaust because the stock system is a bottleneck to making good power.

it's not a case of too much boost for the exhaust to handle, the more you try and force air through (boost) the more your exhaust backpressure goes up to oppose it. fit a nice free flowing exhaust and the backpressure drops away meaning at the same level of force (boost) you push a lot more air through the engine. think of an engine like an air pump, the more air (and fuel) you get through it the more power you make. boost is just a measure of restriction, you're applying 10psi of pressure to try and get air to move through the engine.

yay finally 10 are showing qualifying.. got live timing going as well this should be fun watching the times tumble edit: red flag lewis has binned it! lol

front mount may give you slightly more lag because of the larger air volume to fill, but it will change the induction sound more than anything else. 8-9psi should be fine but there's not much point going higher until you sort the exhaust out, and once you do I'd run no more than 10psi considering where you live. Heat is the enemy of stock turbos but 10psi will be safe.

if it's running rich i would suspect an air leak in your piping

Funnily enough we have someone at work who fitted Paranormal 18# to his commodore. and yes he is a gigantic fag. They really do scream "no style" like turning up to a black tie function and dragging your arse across the carpet like a dog with worms.

was reading a thread recently and a workshop operator said he'd been through a bunch of tridon thermostats that were crap, and caused problems. just use the nissan one. also there is no reason to use a lower temperature it will NOT help you, it just means your car won't get up to temp and you'll lose fuel efficiency.

thanks for posting, you gave me a great chuckle as well.. water into steam lol

I wouldn't leave any car I cared about with the same fluid for even 100k, no matter how much fairy dust they claimed was in it.

Meh. that is all.

Asstray just needs to add a scoop to it so the FMIC actually gets air forced through it. I've illustrated this below. Note the extra room to add a "l33t" sticker on the side of the scoop so people realise how cool you are.

The service manual recommends changing gearbox and diff oils at 40,000km intervals. I changed my gearbox and diff oils for Motul Gear 300 at 40k, and although my gearbox was in perfect nick to start with it still improved the feel especially when cold. It was perfect up until at least ~85000km and now done almost 100k and it could probably do with changing again soon. Gear 300's fully synthetic so it should last well, I've only ever had problems going into 5th at high revs so for track work etc stick with 4 gears and it'll be sweet, or give it half a second before trying 5th! Factory viscous LSDs don't need friction modified oils so Gear 300 is great for the diff too. Interesting about the Redline stuff, I had heard them say they don't recommend it but anecdotal evidence seemed to differ. I moved away from them based on a few things and went with the Motul, but if I had a worn box I would certainly try the Redline.

Go Bilsteins. Adjustable shocks, apart from Konis, are a waste of time because the adjustment is not accurate between the shocks so you'll end up with one side stiffer than the other for the same number of clicks on the adjuster. Guaranteed.

no need to get narky and pick peoples' words apart. besides, valve overlap remains constant unless you use cam gears to change your cam timing. you're either advanced or retarded (talking about the engine here, not the owner ) but the amount of adjustment in an RB is not much, shouldn't be enough to cough/hiccup at idle. Paul, I highly recommend you take your car to another tuner for a look over. Pinging is audible but to be avoided and you're better off being safe than sorry. Takes 5 seconds to check timing on an RB so a competent workshop familiar with skylines should be able to put your mind at rest. Standard timing is 15 degrees and I would not put it any higher than this running 98RON fuel.

I disagree, the team kept pitting him and bringing him out behind massa. short fuel him, long fuel him, try something guys.. in hindsight they should have long fuelled him at the first stop meaning he could stay out and leapfrog massa on the second. Easy to say from the couch though, I must admit At least RBR haven't left both their drivers sitting in the pits at various times and watched themselves get eliminated from Q1. For it to happen to Ferrari twice is laughable.