Kinks

The service manual recommends changing gearbox and diff oils at 40,000km intervals. I changed my gearbox and diff oils for Motul Gear 300 at 40k, and although my gearbox was in perfect nick to start with it still improved the feel especially when cold. It was perfect up until at least ~85000km and now done almost 100k and it could probably do with changing again soon. Gear 300's fully synthetic so it should last well, I've only ever had problems going into 5th at high revs so for track work etc stick with 4 gears and it'll be sweet, or give it half a second before trying 5th! Factory viscous LSDs don't need friction modified oils so Gear 300 is great for the diff too. Interesting about the Redline stuff, I had heard them say they don't recommend it but anecdotal evidence seemed to differ. I moved away from them based on a few things and went with the Motul, but if I had a worn box I would certainly try the Redline.

Go Bilsteins. Adjustable shocks, apart from Konis, are a waste of time because the adjustment is not accurate between the shocks so you'll end up with one side stiffer than the other for the same number of clicks on the adjuster. Guaranteed.

no need to get narky and pick peoples' words apart. besides, valve overlap remains constant unless you use cam gears to change your cam timing. you're either advanced or retarded (talking about the engine here, not the owner ) but the amount of adjustment in an RB is not much, shouldn't be enough to cough/hiccup at idle. Paul, I highly recommend you take your car to another tuner for a look over. Pinging is audible but to be avoided and you're better off being safe than sorry. Takes 5 seconds to check timing on an RB so a competent workshop familiar with skylines should be able to put your mind at rest. Standard timing is 15 degrees and I would not put it any higher than this running 98RON fuel.

I disagree, the team kept pitting him and bringing him out behind massa. short fuel him, long fuel him, try something guys.. in hindsight they should have long fuelled him at the first stop meaning he could stay out and leapfrog massa on the second. Easy to say from the couch though, I must admit At least RBR haven't left both their drivers sitting in the pits at various times and watched themselves get eliminated from Q1. For it to happen to Ferrari twice is laughable.

I am finding this with R33 S2, 40th anniversary model. Even on standard boost, it will ping if I run 10psi in midrange RPM. 100RON fuel made a big difference, but I can't get it locally.

The worst part about changing tyres I have found is tyres that feel great when they're new and aftera couple of heat cycles harden up and feel like your old tyres despite being more expensive and having more tread. Still finding the RE001's will be very slippery on some road surfaces but it also has to do with tyre temperature, once warmed up they seem to grip better but I will have to undertake more... er.... qualitative studies

Yeah I also feel like it's not so good at low RPM and on light throttle after a full exhaust. Definite gains up top though.

Try it, die in a fire and then come tell us how you went. Seriously though, all a fuel pump cares about is pressure and flow, the length of the line doesn't matter because ultimately it's pushing against the fuel pressure reg. If your lines are undersized you will have a problem but you need to have HUGE horsepower before this becomes a problem. Storing any amount of fuel in the end of the car you usually hit hardest if you're going to have an accident... not smart!

They probably gave it to the workshop that did my service, I've been fixing my car ever since I left it with that mob. I originally bought my car from Japlink Motors on parramatta road. They were great to deal with, 5 page State Roads inspection that was very confidence inspiring and the car has been perfect (well, until aforementioned workshop).

true, but if life's taught me anytihng it's never to knock back a ho if it's offered to me

Yet he also bullies the Asian hosts (and us) to try and make the viewing time suitable for Europeans. Hey Bernie hold the grand prix in Europe, then it's a non issue! F**kwit. (but we all knew he was already).

You have to hold down both buttons for 2 seconds, then release, then hit power, snow, power, power, snow and then press both together again. That releases the special kilowatts function.

I'm just enjoying F1 for there here and now, with so many talented young drivers and a shake-up of the rules it has really given some new teams a shot at the title. A lot of these gestures are pie in the sky notions and many of the things are just dick swinging, chest beating exercises because of the power play between Bernie and the teams. Eg Bernie says I want a salary cap and Ferrari says you're being ridiculous so Bernie says take your bat and ball and piss off if you don't like it. I think a salary cap would be bad for the sport but they're all just carrying on like a bunch of five year olds, if F1 goes down the toilet it'll be a sad day but I'll just find something else to watch.

it's for when there's power and snow.

I'll take 3! oh wait, I thought you said "hoes". my mistake.

I haven't dealt with them but they're right next door to a mechanic that will NEVER touch my car again.

I bought some from Nissan last time, they were only a few bucks (as opposed to normal!!)

absolutely do not use a dremel without at least safety goggles. a full face shield is better but goggles are a bare minimum.

My advice, wait until the school holidays are over and then concentrate hard between 9am and 3pm. "hyperthiticly" you will make much more progress in life by learning to spell than you will by trying to illegally modify your car, well concealed or not you are guaranteed to have "hasels" with the police.

I read it on the internet, it must be true. I ran my R31 bone dry, 61 litres into a 60 litre tank and it ran perfectly afterwards. I even replaced the fuel pump in that car and had the wise idea of using some foam rubber to stop the pump rattling around... and the foam wasn't petrol resistant so it disintegrated into powdery mush. Never had a problem with how it ran despite that shit floating around in my tank (never cleaned it, the fuel pump pre-filter strained it out I guess!). Myth busted.

One thing I am curious about, is whether the PFC has 6 ignition drivers and 6 injector drivers.. or does it run semi sequential? Noticed the VIPEC plug-in board is only 4 drivers and can't find any literature anywhere about the PFC (although one would hope Apexi gave us the full 6).

I only get that problem when I'm trying to push the throttle through the firewall, I'm in 2nd gear, and it's wet. Besides that nah haven't noticed it. Make sure your HICAS is plugged in and functional.

My thoughts: Red top RB20DET + FMIC never had a BOV factory, wound it up to 14psi ran it for 3+ years pulled the turbo off and it was exactly the same as you'd expect a 120,000km turbo to be. A little bit of oil but nothing out of the ordinary, it still boosted hard. Car drove great. Put an R33 turbo on and continued running with no BOV, zero problems. RB25DET S2, blocked the BOV off and the car ran like shit (I still have the factory SMIC). I think the newer ECUs are far more sensitive with their mapping and the airflow changes upset it. I would have no qualms whatsoever running without a BOV, providing the ECU could handle it. Did a turbo swap on a mate's RB25, the brand new HKS we put on had about 3x the shaft play of his stock item. Excessive shaft play is a problem, minimal is not. No. Do you think compressor wheels are made of paper mache? They have to be strong enough to compress air while being hot and spinning at a hundred thousand RPM. Do you think a little bit of chuffing noise is going to upset them? Doubt it. Most turbos last longer than that, but say 120k with a BOV and 115k or 110k without. Who cares? Too many variables, or just bad luck. He was probably more careful with the second turbo as well.

That's because not many old farts drive skylines