Kinks

sold

bleed your clutch fluid first, see if that fixes it if not then unbolt gearbox and put an automatic in

Following this.. never seen a tractor turbo on a boat (skyline) before. but I can't wait to see the dyno chart! "because I can" is a great reason to do things

RF electrolysis, interesting.

development freezes are BS flogging the same old horse year after year.. no chance to change the status quo boring!

Hyundai's example uses a tank pressurised to 700 bar. That's 10,290 psi. Let's hope their tank doesn't have structural problems like their front suspension once did. Whether you're talking high pressure stored hydrogen or splitting it on-demand (aka HHO, Browns gas or whatever stupid name you want to make up for it, it's just H2 and O2 gases mixed together after electrolysis of water) you have to put considerable energy into cracking the water molecules apart. Burning simply re-combines them to release energy, but you don't get something for nothing. For HHO/Browns that energy comes from the alternator, for industrial-scale production it is either coal or (hopefully) solar. Burning HHO/Browns gas in a car releases the energy you have already taken from the system via the alternator. So you will see a DROP in efficiency, all other things being equal, because converting energy back and forth is never totally efficient. There is a potential method for increasing efficiency by allowing the use of leaner mixtures, hydrogen has a VERY wide flammability range while gasoline is actually a very narrow flammability range. So you could run your engine at 20:1 and still get relatively complete combusion. Gasoline won't ignite far past 16:1, you just get a lean miss. The downside is that Hydrogen burns very hot, which means high NOx production, and this is exactly what VW is in a lot of trouble for at the moment. To make HHO/Browns gas "work" fuel-efficiency wise you have to bypass the emission controls on your car and make it run lean. To reduce the NOx emissions you have to install an additional SCR system and inject a urea solution into your exhaust to catalyse the NOx products (that's right, you have to piss into your exhaust,but the only difficulty is you need to piss into the hot end of it!) These are all interesting concepts but none of them are a revolution because they all have considerable drawbacks. Do your research!

$150 each for the SMICs (I have 2 available) $80 for crossover pipe + BOV $100 for stock exhaust (dump, cat, catback) located Sydney Northern Beaches

Bump now $1000 pickup. Also listing on Ebay for more coverage.

153K100 means 15nF +/- 10% 100V.. so it'll work fine (so will the one you linked). probably the other common types for 15nF would be ceramic disc (orange) or MKT (a white square shape). MKT is closest to a greencap, a ceramic capacitor will change capacitance with temperature so may produce weird results. I must admit I didn't look too closely at how that capacitor was used in the circuit, I just changed it with the same type. Maybe the exact value of capacitance does matter, maybe it doesn't.

1. loose fan belt. easy fix. tighten or replace. 2. ECU has thrown a fault code. you need to connect a consult cable to see what fault code and fix accordingly. mine showed the same lights when the coil packs were on their way out. it threw the fault and showed all the warning lights well before I felt it missing (but it soon started missing). the stock ECU is very smart, so you need to read the fault code off as yours doesn't necessarily have the same fault as mine.

Bad skyline owner. Bad! No!!! *hits nose with newspaper* idling a cold engine causes additional wear, when idling so little heat is being produced it takes the engine ages to warm up. The more time spent "running cold" the more wear and blowby is happening. start it, let it idle for 10 seconds to get oil pressure and then drive it gently (light throttle) staying under half redline (3500rpm).

Deep cycle AGM battery is going to be a lot easier to find than a niche alternator. Deep cycle will handle discharge better when the car's not running AGM will provide very low resistance which means faster charging when the car is on and better performance for audio. Upgrade your cables between the alternator and battery to squeeze a bit more power out of it if you want to. Standard alternator is what, 60 amps? That's 800 watts of charging power. Should be plenty.

What makes you think this thread will be any different? LOL. Prepare for a clusterf**k of different opinions. Personally, I use RDA.

we need one of these days in Sydney

+1 It seems like you're after a show car. This is a 'go' car - someone who wants to use it, mod it and extract enjoyment out of it. Not put it on a pedestal and look at it. I bought a GTT with a few rough edges, my last car was an R33 GTS-t that I was SUPER precious about. I am not precious at all about the GTT. It's there to be used and abused (ok, not ABUSED abused.. but have some fun). Just depends what you want in a car. When I looked at your inspection photos I was thinking to myself "jesus this guy's anal" - I slowed down when I saw the rust spots but they're not that bad really. The car has probably lived on salt roads back in Japan (snow country). Would I drop 60k on it? Probably not quite that much, I'm also paranoid about things like rust. But if you treated it, it would take a long time to get worse. The accident damage doesn't matter IF it's been repaired properly and I don't see any glaring red flags in those pics. +1. Seems to me that the car isn't hiding anything and nor is the owner. It's not a showroom special but it would be a lot of fun for someone who's not too precious about looks and previous history.

compressor housing should be fine, especially if you tapped it in a similar spot to the RB20 turbo. although I think you mean the pipe "after" the turbo not before it. Before the turbo, you have the rubber pipe going between the AFM and turbo.

Resurface them and bed them in properly. You need to bed in discs properly to form an even layer of pad material on them, when bedding them in do NOT come to a complete stop and give them PLENTY of cool down afterwards before stopping.

hah! I should probably advertise a bit more widely hey. kinda hoping an enthusiast would put them on their daily, they are too nice to drift on!

still for sale

Monza was an OK race. Although DRS still gifts a place, making overtakes a non-event in most cases. The bullshit surrounding F1 continues. The FIA imposed 168 places worth of penalties, Ricciardo was demoted 50 places due to engine and turbo swap. Alonso got dropped 10 places, Button 5 places. Who f**king cares? All these top drivers starting out of place at the back of the grid. FIA have lost the plot. Also, there was some drama about Merc's tyre pressures late in the race. They were within the rules when the tyres came out of the blankets, the FIA decided to "spot check" them on the grid after they had cooled down and then found Merc to be below the minimum required pressure. Of course they will be! Ferrari obviously knew this was going to happen and pumped their tyres up a bit. But Merc ended up not being penalised, which is fine. But Merc told Lewis to speed up in the last few laps, but not why. Why is now known - to cover off a potential FIA penalty for having cold tyres with less pressure in them. Who f**king cares??? Too many goddamn rules.

This is how pretty much all dyno operators work. You are paying for time, not results. Re the CAS, if it was noisy before then what it would cause is an inaccurate timing signal, to tune around this you need to be more conservative than usual with your ignition timing which means less power. With a clean CAS signal you can usually get a bit more timing in because the fuzz/jitter in the signal is gone so you don't need the additional safety margin due to CAS inaccuracy.

bump still for sale

When you're done receiving helpful advice do you think you could knock off that massive pic of your car and the huge amount of wasted whitespace in your signature? I have a 1080p monitor and I can't fit a single one of your posts on the screen. it's ridiculous.

If you are just flogging the inner edges of the rears you are running too much camber If one wheel is spinning up a lot then you are applying too much throttle too early in the corner, or your rear swaybar is too stiff. The swaybar reacts to the outer corner compressing by trying to raise the inner corner. The stronger this effect is the less weight is applied to the inside tyre and the more it will want to spin. Soften the swaybar.